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Caribbean: Come out of your shell in Turks and Caicos

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The conch – one of the Caribbean’s favourite shellfish – has physical attributes any man would envy. Its manhood can extend up to a foot long and if it happens to get bitten off, it simply grows another.

 

Just a couple of fascinating facts visitors to the world’s only commercial conch farm on the Turks and Caicos Island of Providenciales learn on a tour.

 

“No fear of being Bobbitt-ed,” smiled Denver, the guide. Set up by marine biologist Chuck Hesse, a decade after he was shipwrecked on the island in 1974, the farm grows 1.5 million conchs a year – many served in local restaurants – and its quirkiness makes it worth dragging yourself away from the beach.

 

And with sand so sugar-like and the sea a kaleidoscope of iridescent blues, doing anything that involves leaving the coast has to be carefully considered. Lying to the southeast of the Bahamas, the Turks and Caicos is made up of eight inhabited islands and around 40 cays, and most are blessed with the kind of beaches that frequently make those ‘best in the world’ lists.

 

On Providenciales or ‘Provo’, the most developed of the islands, the 12 mile-long Grace Bay beach is undisputed king. It’s here that most tourism infrastructure is found: there’s the Princess Alexandra Marine Park, hotels line the coast and more are being built, but with all that space it never feels crowded.

 

I was staying at Ocean Club West, a laid-back luxury hotel, with sister property Ocean Club just a stroll along the beach. My two-bedroom suite was bigger than most London flats, complete with fully-equipped kitchen, two bathrooms and a huge terrace – great for families.

 

Almost undeveloped until 30 years ago, Provo has seen a surge of hotel building since the international airport opened in 1984. Its status as a tax haven lures investors and the wealthy looking for second homes. There’s now an 18-hole championship golf course and even a casino, but despite these changes, peace and quiet still reign. Even at its most developed, this is not a place for crowds or nightlife and it remains one of the least spoilt Caribbean destinations.

 

If you can muster the energy – and you don’t need much – exploring the region by boat is a must.

 

Ataybeyra, our chartered yacht visited deserted cays, where we snorkelled and picnicked. We stopped at Little Water Cay, home only to hundreds of dinosaur-like iguanas and passed Parrot Cay, a 1,000-acre private island housing the holiday homes of Bruce Willis and Donna Karan.

 

For those with the time and inclination, a trip to the destination’s capital Grand Turk is a rewarding step back in time. Just a half-hour flight from Provo on board a pink and yellow five-seater Cessna, it’s a world away.

 

Bermudian and Colonial-style buildings line Cockburn town’s narrow streets, and donkeys roam wild past 18th century churches and pretty guesthouses.

 

It’s popular with divers and whale-watchers drawn by the pristine marine life and a protected reef which drops not far from the shore.

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