Was anyone surprised when Norwegian Cruise Line announced in February that it was calling time on visiting Venice? Jane Archer reports
There has been a strained relationship between the cruise industry and the city for years, with cruisers loving the views as they sailed in and out of Venice and locals (and land-based tourists) hating the sight of large ships on the Giudecca Canal, blaming them for overtourism and damaging the city’s fragile foundations.
Following the collision between MSC Opera and Uniworld’s River Countess (now renamed La Venezia) in June 2019, the Italian government banned ships of more than 25,000 tonnes from entering the lagoon from August 1, 2021.
While that in itself wasn’t the problem, the government failed to come up with an alternative route into the port or somewhere the big ships could dock and transfer passengers into the city.
Norwegian Cruise Line had chosen to anchor outside the Lido and tender passengers in, but no more. In a statement, the line said the “tender operation and overall experience… has fallen short of the standard we aim to deliver”.
This year, its ships will instead call into Ravenna in Italy, Zadar or Rijeka in Croatia or Koper in Slovenia. Venice had already been dropped for 2025, replaced for now by a day at sea.
Other lines declined to confirm whether they have stopped calling at the city, especially with the new €5 entry fee for day visitors that began at the end of last month. However, a quick look on their websites shows it is off the radar for many.
Instead of turnarounds in Venice (when one lot of passengers disembarks and another embarks), Princess Cruises and Holland America Line use Trieste, which is almost two hours away near the Slovenian border, while Royal Caribbean International and Celebrity Cruises dock in Ravenna, more than two hours’ drive south, on the Adriatic coast.
None have cruises that get their ships close enough to Venice to sensibly offer excursions without lengthy travel times. Princess and Holland America list 11-hour tours from Trieste on their websites, but they are not currently available to book.
Venice shore excursions
Venice isn’t completely off the cruise map, though. MSC Cruises has voyages that dock in Marghera, a 15-minute drive from the port, from where there are water taxis to St Mark’s Square.
“City-break customers are blown away because instead of paying £300 a night plus for everything, with a river cruise, it’s all included”
Small ship companies such as SeaDream Yacht Club, Windstar Cruises, Star Clippers, Emerald Cruises and Ponant are still allowed to sail the Giudecca Canal, while Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ ships use Fusina, a small port 20 minutes from the city. Oceania Cruises will be calling into Fusina on two cruises in 2025.
Nikki Dos Santos, Princess Cruises’ sales manager for the UK & Europe, says agents should tailor-make a pre or post-cruise stay in the city for clients, to provide “an even more memorable holiday and drive additional sales opportunities”.
River cruise lines that sail the lagoon or pair the lagoon with a cruise on the Bianco Canal to Mantua are other great options. Hotel barge operator European Waterways offers both on the 20-passenger La Bella Vita, with wine tasting and trips to palaces and castles en route.
CroisiEurope has voyages that tick both boxes on the river ship Michelangelo, and optional excursions to the Doge’s Palace, the island of Murano and the bohemian Dorsoduro district.
Uniworld has one-week sailings in the Venice lagoon on La Venezia that UK and Europe managing director Chris Townson dubs “the most immersive experience you can have in Venice”. The itinerary includes two nights in Chioggia and visits the islands of Mazzorbo and Burano. Passengers can join an after-hours tour of St Mark’s Basilica, visit the Doge’s Palace, learn to steer a gondola, go cycling and more.
River cruises in Venice
“The cruise is a massive sales opportunity for agents,” says Townson. “City-break customers are blown away by it because instead of paying £300 a night for a small room in Venice, plus, plus, plus for everything else, with us it’s all included.”
Uniworld’s seven-night Venice & the Jewels of Veneto cruise costs from £2,299 in July, which works out at from £328 a night including flights, transfers, meals, drinks, tips and tours.
So, does it matter that many cruise lines have bid arrivederci to Venice? Not really. Almost three years on from the ban, they have found homes in other ports, while river cruise companies have filled the gap for those who love a Venetian holiday afloat.
