Why eastern Halkidiki should be your next Greek getaway

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"This is Greece as I’ve never experienced before,” I remarked to a companion as we danced in a circle around the village square in Palaiochori, eastern Halkidiki, accompanied by a chorus of clarinets and cicadas. I have been a lover of Greece since I was 10 years old, but folk dancing at village fairs has never been my strong suit.

As I whirled, blurs of primary colour reeled across my vision: each house had hung a colourful handwoven rug from the window, showcasing one of this region’s traditional crafts. 

For repeat visitors looking to make a deep connection with Greek culture without meeting many other tourists, this is the place to be.

Halkidiki is split into three peninsulas. Most British tourists stick to the westernmost, Kassandra, known for its familyfriendly resorts such as Sani and Ikos; while the beach-filled middle one, Sithonia, attracts mainly Bulgarian, Serbian and Romanian road-trippers. 

The eastern peninsula is mostly occupied by Mount Athos, a monastic centre where outsiders are largely forbidden. But the remainder of the Athos region, where I danced the night away, rewards travellers with ancient sites, fabulous food and a rare glimpse into rural Greek life.