Historic port city Halifax is welcoming new openings to its shores, finds Natalie Marsh
I’m staring up at a sign that reads ‘Welcome to Canada’. It hangs on a wall behind a wooden table and two wooden chairs, just below an old image of the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh.
The sign is translated into six languages, including German, Polish and Italian, and has a coat of arms in the middle. I sit on one of the rows of chairs facing the sign and try to imagine what it was like for people who arrived in Halifax, Nova Scotia, for the first time, looking up at that sign with hopes and dreams of starting a new life in Canada.
This is one of the most poignant features in the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, a moving place to visit in itself. It’s said about 43% of Canadians can trace their ancestry back to Pier 21, where one million immigrants arrived between 1928 and 1971 to step onto Canada’s shores. This room is where they were called up to approach the table where immigration officers sat.
Friends gather at a pop-up food festival, where aromas of different cuisines fill the air
They’d show their paperwork, medical notes and all their evidence to make the argument for becoming an immigrant to Canada. There are guided tours of the museum, which last about 30 minutes and are included in the £9.30 adult ticket price. It’s well worth doing, not least for the stories told along the way.
The Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 sits at one end of the nearly three-mile-long boardwalk that lines part of Halifax’s waterfront. The boardwalk is a hive of activity, especially as it’s a balmy 28C during my visit in late May.
Friends gather at a pop-up food festival, where aromas of different cuisines fill the air. Runners pass by the calm harbour water that catches the sunlight. Nearby, couples lay on hammocks right at the water’s edge, basking in the heat.
Making a marque
Halifax has an extensive maritime past. It’s the birthplace of Cunard Line founder Sir Samuel Cunard and there’s a huge naval base in the city that dates back to the 18th century.
The marine ties were the inspiration behind the design of the Queen’s Marque development, which opened in 2021. Just next to Halifax’s ferry terminal, this area is the only place along the boardwalk where you can actually touch the sea. There’s a beacon, ‘Rise Again’, that stands at the top of a flight of steps and lights up in accordance with the tide levels.
If you look closely at the walls of its buildings, you’ll see a horizontal mark signifying a water line. The Queen’s Marque is home to the Muir Hotel, as well as apartments. There’s also a great selection of restaurants, with Drift an excellent spot for some Atlantic Canada-inspired dishes.
Back in time
I’m walking to the top of the hill towards the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. I stop at the top, where there is a small crowd of people fixated on the fort above. I glance at my phone, which reads 11.59am – just in time for the daily noon gun to be fired. Sure enough, a minute later it goes off, and the boom vibrates through my chest.
The smoke that’s created dissipates, and I realise the sound must have been heard across the city. The citadel is a thorough introduction to the city’s military background. There are exhibitions on the world wars and old armour on display.
Guards march around the site in uniforms not too dissimilar to those worn by the guards who stand at Buckingham Palace today. In more recent history, Halifax is also one of the ports closest to where the Titanic sank in 1912.
Some of the artefacts recovered from the wreckage are exhibited at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic on the waterfront – it’s surreal to see part of a carved archway, a child’s shoes and a panel from the Titanic’s grand staircase. I step back out onto the boardwalk and sit on the steps at Queen’s Marque where I look out over the sea – from a city that offers the best of old and new.
Where to stay in Halifax
The Sutton Place Hotel
The executive suites overlooking the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site have some of the best views in the city. The suites all have one bedroom and a spacious bathroom decorated in white and gold, with a separate living area providing extra space. There’s a steakhouse on site, and the hotel is next to Argyle Street, which comes alive in the evening. A Standard Room for two adults costs from £187 per night in May 2024 (a special rate for when clients sign up for the free reward programme).
Muir Hotel
Located in the new Queen’s Marque development on the waterfront, this new hotel is part of the Autograph Collection. It’s a property that’s in touch with its surroundings, taking inspiration from Nova Scotia in its decor.
There’s a gallery in the hotel with a rotating collection of local artworks, as well as some distinctive venues, including a secret speakeasy. A Standard King Room for two adults costs from £306 per night in May 2024.
Moxy Halifax
Downtown This hotel, set to open its doors in December, will be Canada’s first Moxy. Guests will check in at the bar in this modern, trendy property, a stone’s throw from the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site and about 10 minutes from the waterfront. Rooms will cater to a range of group sizes, from queen and king rooms to a room with two bunk beds, and studios. Prices start at £177 per night in May 2024.
Best of the rest in Nova Scotia
Peggy’s Cove: The quaint fishing village of Peggy’s Cove is home to a gleaming white and red-roofed lighthouse. A new viewing platform makes it easier to get those all-important views without climbing on the rocks.
“Nova Scotia is home to nearly 200 lighthouses and Peggy’s Cove is probably the most famous of them all,” says Janette Wallace, media relations specialist for the UK & Germany markets at Tourism Nova Scotia. “It’s less than an hour’s drive from downtown Halifax.”
Recommended stay: One day
Lunenburg: The old town of Lunenburg, less than a 90-minute drive from Halifax, is a Unesco World Heritage Site with a fishing port full of history. “With its distinctive waterfront, bright colourful buildings and delicious restaurants, it is a must-stop when visiting Nova Scotia’s south shore,” says Wallace.
Recommended stay: Two days
Cape Breton Island: The scenic driving route, the Cabot Trail, is a 185-mile loop in the northernmost point of Cape Breton Island that passes through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and along the winding coastline. “This is the perfect way to take in the natural beauty and breathtaking views of Cape Breton Island,” says Wallace.
Recommended stay: Four days minimum
Book it
Frontier Canada offers a five-night Halifax city break from £1,795 per person based on two sharing. The price includes return Air Canada flights from Heathrow to Halifax and a stay at the Sutton Place Hotel, based on a May departure.
frontier-canada.co.uk
PICTURES: Tourism Nova Scotia/Acorn Art Photography, Scott Munn; Patrick Rojo
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