Discover Jamaica's food scene on a fun-filled agent fam trip

Jamaican jerk chicken in the smokehouse. Image credit: Shutterstock/petalouda

 

In the smokehouse, I see the secret to jerk first-hand. The cook lifts the giant metal corrugated hood to reveal rows of pork and chicken simmering above burning wood from the Jamaican allspice tree.

 

I take a seat in the rustic garden ready to savour a lunch of spice-rubbed chicken with scotch bonnet sauce, cinnamon-infused ‘festival’ dumplings and rice and peas that I know will be almost impossible to find off-island due to the pimento wood-infused cooking process. It’s the culmination of an agent fam trip that’s revealed Jamaica’s true nature, away from the allure of its tropical beaches.

 

By the time I sniffed the scent of Scotchies, I was back in Montego Bay, where my journey began at Sangster International airport seven days earlier.

 

But during that week, I’d travelled all over the Caribbean’s third-largest island – to capital Kingston, port city Ocho Rios in the north, beach favourite Negril in the far west and the Unesco-listed Blue Mountains National Park in the east, exploring every dimension of this sun-kissed isle.

 

Coffee grown in Jamaica

Coffee beans being harvested in the Blue Mountains. Image credit: Shutterstock/artphotoclub

 

On the cool green terraces of Craighton Estate in Irish Town, 800 metres above sea level, thick cloud envelops the ridge beyond, sunshine super-charges the coffee bushes along a sloping trail and Kingston glints far down below.

 

Sun, showers and rich soil are the key to Blue Mountain Coffee’s taste, according to long-serving resident coffee master Alton ‘Junior’ Bedward who leads the hour-long tour of the heritage-filled Great House, coffee plantation and gardens plump with ripe mangoes.

 

Sticky from the uphill exertion, I stop to examine the fat red arabica beans, widely considered to make the best brew in the world. Without a hint of bitterness and only mildly caffeinated – though it is said to have medicinal properties – the final product tastes as smooth as the Blue Mountain air feels.

 

One cup gives me just enough of a boost for my next stop high on the rainforest trails of Holywell Park, which offers the best route into this lush wilderness. 

Dunn’s River Falls, Jamaica. Image credit: Jamaica Tourist Board

 

A short walk along the Blue Mahoe Trail, a nature trek named after the national tree, leads to the top of the Waterfall Trail where a small birdwatching hide offers a place to spot the rare mountain witch bird that haunts these parts with its strange call.

 

Soon I’m deep among elfin woodland and birdsong, ferns blanketing steep banks as the path descends to a bouldered stream. The sound of rushing water below mingles with raindrops, and I emerge upon a delightful waterfall before climbing the path back to the ranger’s hut, as an eerie mist swirls all around.

 

How to visit Jamaica’s Blue Mountains

 

The Jamaica Blue Mountain Culinary Trail extends from these mountains to roadside eateries serving food cooked the traditional way. Ital culture is strong here thanks to the resident Rasta community, so at Crystal Edge cafe, I opt for a steaming bowl of flavoursome pea stew, hearty with sweet potato, lentils and kidney beans.

 

Visitors can follow this tasting trail either side of the mountains, to the natural haven of Portland and the birthplace of jerk at Boston Bay, or to Kingston and foodie hotspots such as Triple Tz and the popular I-Scream parlour at Devon House.

 

The Blue Mountains are easy to visit on an excursion from Kingston or Ocho Rios with local operators such as Island Routes and area specialists Blue Mountain Tours offering hotel pick-ups. As a base, Ocho Rios is ideal for travellers who want to see the island’s highlights, with two top attractions on its doorstep – Dunn’s River Falls and Mystic Mountain.

 

Climbing the tiered cascades of Dunn’s River as they tumble down to the beach is an utterly enchanting immersion in the island’s tropical lanscapes, while jungle theme park Mystic Mountain has an exhilaratingly high perch above Ocho Rios. A chairlift swings us to the top where the bobsled from classic movie Cool Runnings zooms down through the forest.

 

The park reopened last year following a revamp and features the fun Raggamuffin coaster that tosses riders around on the hilltop, as well as a treetop adventure course and a quintessentially Jamaican picnic area serving up Red Stripe beer with a reggae soundtrack kept fresh by breakout island artists such as Chronixx, Protoje and Koffee.

 

River rafting in Jamaica

 

Rafting on Martha Brae river. Image credit: Shutterstock/toya1970

 

Visitors staying in Montego Bay, around 90 minutes away, have their share of natural attractions too, starting with Martha Brae river rafting. On a gentle journey aboard a bamboo raft powered by gondolier Fred, it’s easy to imagine the days when this emerald river was used to transport fresh produce to the historic port of Falmouth.

 

Fred hops off the raft to fetch fragrant Jamaican rose apples from his neighbour’s tree while I sip from a freshly hacked coconut bought at a riverside stall. As we float downstream, mangoes, breadfruit, walnuts, almonds and figs appear in the canopy all around, the source of the fresh produce I had seen while browsing the fruit stalls of Ackee Walk in Kingston. It’s a far cry from the plastic-wrapped fruit and veg in our supermarket aisles.

 

Jamaica is, quite literally, infused with flavour. Spicy, sweet, aromatic and bold, it makes the island stand out as a tropical beach destination with extra bite – and the real jerk experience alone is worth coming back for.

 

The agents enjoying their trip in Jamaica

 

 

---

 

Book it

 

Kuoni offers a 10-night, two-centre package with three nights, including breakfast, at S Hotel Kingston and seven nights’ all-inclusive at S Hotel Montego Bay from £3,499 per person, based on two sharing, including return flights and excursions to Dunn’s River Falls and the Blue Hole. 
kuoni.co.uk

 

Caribtours offers seven nights at Half Moon resort, staying on a room-only basis, including return flights, private transfers and access to a UK airport lounge from £2,675 per person.
caribtours.co.uk

 

The Jamaica Tourist Board has trade resources available at visitjamaica.com

 

 

---

 

 

Agents’ views

 

 

Teresa Williams, Hays Travel

 

“My top tip is to try everything. I’m gobsmacked I climbed Dunn’s River Falls, but it was so worth it. I enjoyed the trip so much I’ve been looking to book a Jamaica holiday for myself. Though the Princess Grand and Half Moon were impressive resorts, I think the boutique-style S Hotel Montego Bay, with its distinct Jamaican flavour and food, is more for me.”

 

 

Charlotte Harrison, Travel with Charli UK

 

“The Cool Runnings bobsled at Mystic Mountain was an epic experience. In terms of recommending an area, it would have to be Negril. Although it’s out on its own peninsula, I absolutely loved the Princess Grand for a relaxing all-inclusive break and will definitely be pushing it as a top hotel in Jamaica for my clients.”

 

 

Gemma Perry, The Holiday Fixer

 

“The fam reinforced the idead that Jamaica offers diverse luxury experiences. Couples Sans Souci stood out with its adult-only atmosphere, but Half Moon was the real revelation – the turtle sanctuary makes it unforgettable for eco-conscious travellers, while the sprawling grounds and championship golf offer privacy that high-profile clients crave.”

 

 

---

 

 

Upgraded hotels in Jamaica

 

Overwater villas at the Princess Grand, Jamaica. Image credit: Princess Hotels & Resorts

 

Princess Grand Jamaica, a new luxury enclave, made its debut on Negril’s sprawling beachfront last winter, offering 1,005 suites, glossy interiors and room categories that include swim-up, overwater and special couple’s suites, butler-serviced rooms, family areas and adult-only section Princess Senses The Mangrove.

 

Highlights include the huge range of culinary options and a Jamaican snack truck serving tasty patties.

 

From £327 per night, all-inclusive.
princess-hotels.com

 

Half Moon, Jamaica

 

Half Moon is a favourite of the royal family and boasts a 70-year heritage, but it remains fresh-faced thanks to timely tweaks and additions.

 

After an update to its tasteful Founders Cove cottages, the resort added the swish Eclipse Great House with its 33 suites and sanctuary-like Fern Tree spa in 2020, and recently overhauled its luxury villa collection with seven plush oceanfront pads. Highlights include the resort’s renowned Sugar Mill restaurant, horse stables and a turtle nesting beach.

 

From £337 per night room-only.
halfmoon.com

 

Lead image credit: Shutterstock/Marc Stephan