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Discover a quiet side to Canada in the wilderness-filled province of Manitoba
Soak up pristine Canadian wilderness without the crowds on a summer escape to Manitoba
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Even though there were a few of us clustered on the jetty, it was deathly quiet. Mother Nature’s majesty had us bewitched as her brushstrokes splashed streaks of ochre, amber, burnt orange and crimson across the sky, silhouetting the spruce and pine trees on the horizon. This same paintbox of colours danced in the watery reflection below.
I’d heard the sunsets at Clear Lake in the rural Canadian province were good – but not this good.
The only thing that broke the silence was a flock of goosanders landing on the water’s surface, perhaps to get a good look at the sunset themselves.
National Parks in Manitoba
Riding Mountain National Park. Image credit: Travel Manitoba
The following day, I enjoyed Clear Lake in a completely different way – dining at its shoreline on braised bison short rib, with the crackle of an open fire the sole mealtime soundtrack. “It’s called Clear Lake for a reason,” said Karly McRae, owner of accommodation provider Lakehouse Properties.
“Everywhere you go, the landscapes are untouched. We like to think this is what Banff National Park felt like a hundred years ago.”
I was staying in Wasagaming, a sleepy town on the shores of Clear Lake, a three-hour drive from provincial capital Winnipeg. Here, life is lived at a gentler pace, which is exactly how the locals like it.
My base, the Lakehouse Boutique Hotel, felt more like a collection of quiet cabin retreats, fronted by a restaurant serving hearty Canadian classics.
A meal at Lakehouse Boutique Hotel. Image credit: Travel Manitoba
Wasagaming sits right on the edge of Riding Mountain National Park (pictured main), one of only two national parks in the province. Yet most overseas visitors to Manitoba fly straight from Winnipeg to Churchill to go polar bear spotting, which leaves an awful lot of the province undiscovered.
Wildlife in Riding Mountain National Park
A bison in Manitoba. Image credit: Travel Manitoba
Churchill’s polar bear fame might make it Manitoba’s winter wildlife hotspot, but summertime in the province offers equally interesting fauna. Riding Mountain National Park welcomes a fraction of the visitors Churchill sees, which makes it prime territory for clients to embark on a wilderness adventure on the open road.
One morning, I set off for Lake Audy Bison Enclosure, a portion of the park reserved for bison herds. But, early as it was, Wasagaming’s location within Riding Mountain means you need to be switched on from the minute you leave town – you never know what you might see.
Sure enough, after about 10 minutes, I saw what looked like soot-dusted rocks on the roadside.
As I drew closer and they lifted their heads, I realised it was a black bear and her two cubs. The sighting caught me by surprise, but instead of running back into the undergrowth, they stayed, watching me inquisitively, as interested in me as I was in them. It would be one of several encounters on the journey, each one as exciting as the last.
As I neared the enclosure, there were several lookout points offering views of Riding Mountain’s expansive landscapes and another vantage point to see the herd of up to 50 bison that roam across the grasses.
But I had better luck spotting them at the roadsides, where bison congregate near the gravel tracks, grazing on the pastures and tending to their young.
They seemed to like the attention, with a pair blocking the road as if they wanted me to stay with them a little longer.
“May and June are great times to see bison here, as there are lots of dandelions and grasses for them to eat,” explained Pat Rousso, a local guide and retired park ranger of 34 years. “September and October are also good months, because it’s rutting season and the bison prefer the cooler weather.”
Things to do in Manitoba
The Ukrainian Festival in Dauphin. Image credit: Travel Manitoba
Clients on a self-drive adventure in this southwestern corner of Manitoba can experience remarkable variety – if they know where to look. An hour’s drive from Wasagaming lies Dauphin, Canada’s Ukrainian capital, where more than 40% of the population are reported to have Ukrainian heritage.
Ukrainians moved here from the Austro-Hungarian empire in the late 19th century, with the promise of farmland from the Canadian government for immigrants who settled in western Canada.
Visitors can learn more about this period of Manitoba’s history at Selo Ukraina, a recreation of a prairie settlement from 1896 to 1925. It’s open between May and August and invites guests to see first-hand what a church, school and general store were like.
For the more adventurous, nearby Northgate Trails offers thrill-seekers a wide network of mountain bike routes (with bike hire available) spanning a range of abilities.
For a gentler cycle route, I headed back to Clear Lake in Wasagaming, where guests can hire bikes to trace a portion of the lakeside trail with nothing but pristine vistas for company, or simply stroll along the shore with an ice cream.
Some of my most memorable moments came from these simple pleasures, enjoying a peaceful moment of solitude or watching those fiery summer sunsets next to a cluster of locals. It felt like I was sharing in their secret to the good life.
And it’s still their secret – for now.
Book it
Magnetic North Travel offers a seven-night trip to Manitoba from £995 per person. The package includes three nights in Winnipeg, four nights in Wasagaming, five days’ car hire and admission to the Canadian Museum of Human Rights in Winnipeg. Flights not included.
magneticnorthtravel.com
What to see in Winnipeg, Canada
Visitors tend not to stay in Manitoba’s capital, but encourage clients to linger for a few days and they’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Winnipeg, Canada. Image credit: Bill Bennett/Travel Manitoba
It’s a city made up of eclectic and walkable neighbourhoods, including North End, site of the Winnipeg General Strike of 1919; St Boniface, Winnipeg’s pretty French quarter; and the innovative Exchange District.
It also has excellent museums – none more insightful than the Canadian Museum for Human Rights – and a thriving food scene. My highlight was The Forks, a complex featuring boutique shops and a food hall overlooking the junction of the Assiniboine and Red rivers.
The Forks, Winnipeg. Image credit: Wiebke Helfrich
Insider insight
Karin Schreiber, account manager for UK and Germany, Travel Manitoba
“Manitoba is best known for polar bears, beluga whales and northern lights in Churchill – but summer reveals a completely different side of the province. It’s ideal for clients looking for an authentic Canadian experience, where you holiday alongside the locals rather than international tour groups.
With more than 100,000 lakes, Manitoba is perfect for paddling, fishing and relaxed stays in lakeside cabins. It’s all about slowing down and experiencing Canada at its most genuine.”
Ask the operator
Charlotte Porritt, Canada and polar product manager, Magnetic North Travel
“Summer in Manitoba offers travellers the chance to experience Canada’s diverse landscapes, iconic wildlife and authentic outdoor adventures.
With long, sunny days and crystal-clear lakes, it’s the ideal destination for nature lovers, active adventurers and families.
Clients can spend a couple of days in Manitoba’s vibrant capital Winnipeg, before escaping into nature with a stay in Riding Mountain National Park, where rolling hills, forests and lakes create the perfect summer retreat.
The charming town of Wasagaming on the shores of Clear Lake offers waterfront dining and a relaxed resort atmosphere. Visitors can go canoeing, kayaking, hiking, cycling or simply unwind by the lake, surrounded by spectacular natural beauty.”
Lead image credit: Wibke Helfrich
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