Mexico: Going back to their roots

EVER since I got engaged, there’s been a lot of fuss about my wedding dress. Should it be simple and elegant, or should I go for a traditional meringue and veil? What about something totally different? Everyone, it seems, has an opinion.

But I should count myself lucky I don’t live in Zinacantán in the state of Chiapas, Mexico. The young women in this tiny village, high up in the mountains by the Guatemalan border, have to go through a huge rigmarole when it comes to dressing up for their big day.

Their wedding outfits consist of layer upon layer of brightly coloured, painstakingly hand-embroidered clothes. Beautiful though the material is, much of the outfit is made of wool and, at 30C in the shade, it soon gets hot, heavy and uncomfortable.

How do I know? Because, like every visitor to Zinacantán, I got the chance to don the region’s traditional wedding dress during a half-day village tour designed to give tourists a taste of ‘the real Mexico’.

Other delights in our quest for the real Mexico included sampling authentic tortillas and downing a shot of the local tipple – a highly potent sugarcane liquor called ‘posh’.

The tortillas, filled with sour cheese, were cooked by a local in her simple kitchen as we all crowded round and watched. Small, thick and with a smoky corn taste, these tortillas were nothing like the sort I’ve eaten in commercial Tex Mex restaurants in the UK.

Nor was there anything ‘posh’ about the local firewater. But, after our bone-shaking four-hour journey into the highlands of Zinacantán, it certainly jolted the senses.

Zinacantán and the surrounding villages are difficult to reach, but a decade ago visitors wouldn’t have got there at all. Several parts of the state became no-go areas when the Zapatista National Liberation Army declared war on the government to get better living conditions and rights for indigenous Indians. At least 150 people were killed in clashes.

But the Mexico Tourist Board is keen to point out that Chiapas has been safe for the past 10 years, and is pushing the region as an alternative to Mexico’s traditional package holidays. The state’s ancient Mayan culture and geographical attractions will be a key focus at World Travel Market in November.

Regional director for Europe Manuel Diaz-Cebrian said: “Ecotourism and heritage are key to Mexico’s tourism market and Chiapas incorporates both these elements. With its colonial towns and Mayan ruins, travellers can experience the true roots of Mexico.”

Chiapas is now included in several specialist operators’ programmes, including Cox and Kings, Journey Latin America, Trips Worldwide and Explore Worldwide, and demand for the ‘alternative Mexico’ is rising.

Cox and Kings reports sales of its Highlights of Mexico Tour, which includes Chiapas, have increased by 25% in the last year. Meanwhile, Explore Worldwide features Chiapas in its Family Adventure brochure. Product manager Stuart Whittington said: “There’s currently a huge demand for family holidays with a difference. For kids reading adventure stories about lost worlds, Chiapas really brings it alive.”

However, there are some strict protocols tourists must adhere to. In the village of San Juan Chamula, a few miles from Zinacantán, photographing the indigenous people taking part in ancient rituals at the church of Templo de San Juan is strictly prohibited. Ignore the request at your peril – rumour has it one thoughtless US tourist was hauled in to the local police station and severely reprimanded for doing so.

Trips Worldwide product manager John Faithful said: “Operators should brief visitors on what to expect and how to behave when visiting such places.”

Photos they may not like, but the people of San Juan Chamula have a healthy regard for one of the strongest symbols of globalisation, Coca-Cola, which worshippers drink to bring on a good burp in order to expel evil spirits. Traditionally, black corn juice was used, but now Coca-Cola is easier to get hold of – even four hours up a mountain.

In my opinion, visitors wanting a taste of authentic Mexico definitely get ‘the real thing’ in Chiapas.