Prague: Seasonal surprises

THE dour days of Prague as described in Kafka’s novels 70 years ago are now long gone. Today, festive Christmas markets, illuminated ‘fairytale’ castles and spontaneous carol singers beckon visitors during the snowy wintry months.

Having a snowball fight on the medieval Charles Bridge, drinking hot mulled wine while tucked away in a quaint courtyard and avoiding the summer crowds are some of the attractions of increasingly popular off-season stays.

Cresta Holidays cities product manager Ian Lomas said its sales to Prague are up 48% this year.

“The beautiful Christmas decorations in the Old Town Square, apple strudel in front of a roaring fire, holiday concerts at the State Opera and free promotional hotel nights are all reasons people are flocking to Prague in winter,” said Lomas.

Accessibility is another factor, with the number of flights from UK regional airports to Prague quadrupling over the past two years.

Shearings Holidays marketing manager Andrea Rafferty added: “Prague’s markets really come alive in the Christmas season.”

Must-sees include Prague Castle by night, the moving Pinkas Synagogue dedicated to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust from Bohemia and Moravia, the local Pilsner Urquell on draught, a concert at Estates Theatre and the view of the city spires from the vantage of Letna Park.

Gifts, from puppets to wooden handicrafts, are often 10% to 25% cheaper than similar buys in Western European markets.

The Old Town Square houses nearly 10 centuries of architecture influenced by Italian, Flemish and Austrian master architects.

Its market sells garnet jewellery, traditional wooden toys made according to age-old techniques and the famous Czech marionettes.

To keep warm, visitors can sample the country’s favourite spirit, Becherovka herb liquor.

Bohemia crystal and Moser crystal are also popular buys.

Every evening over the Christmas period there will be carol concerts and traditional folk performances throughout the city. These add to the festive atmosphere of several Christmas markets in Wenceslas Square, Namesti Republiky and Namesti Miru.

Concerts are a key attraction in a city overflowing with venues, from theatres to gothic churches. The famed State Opera performs Christmas concerts on December 25 and 26, but a more intimate experience can be enjoyed at Prague’s Basilica of St Jacob, which holds Christmas concerts from December 26 through to January 9.

The National Theatre holds a classical advent concert on December 19 and the 1,000-year-old St Vitus Cathedral in the environs of Prague Castle is an ideal setting for Christmas Mass.

The city’s celebrated life-size Nativity scene is on view at the Church of the Virgin Mary Queen of Angels, on Loretanske Square. Visitors can also see the gingerbread Nativity scene in the Church of St Matthew in the Devijce Quarter.

Dozens of restaurants and hotels in Prague offer Christmas menus during the festive season. A typical feast starts with marinated herring, continuing with fish-head soup and stuffed leg of rabbit or venison, and culminating in Christmas cookies and even crêpes.

For fine dining try Bellevue near the Vltave River, or Obecni Dum near Republic Square. For a more relaxed atmosphere at half the price, try Jazz Club Zelezna or afé Imperial.

One of the top draws of Prague in winter is the absence of the camera-toting summer masses.

Prague Castle, which dates back to 870, is comprised of a palace, three churches and a monastery where architecture, history and a changing of the guard draws admirers from around the world.

More than 213,000 visitors packed the castle during August 2003, but only 25% of that figure went there in the December.

In addition, hotel prices tend to come down by 10% to 25% in winter, a saving reflected in operator packages.