Skiing: The next big thing

Quirky culture, affordability and varied terrain are just some of the attractions tempting Brits back to the Serbian resort of Kopaonik, in the former Yugoslavia.

Back in the early 1990s, before the Balkan conflict, the UK was the most important market for Kopaonik. Visitors used to come in droves, attracted by the accessible slopes and the relatively inexpensive cost of living.

While the latter hasn’t really changed – it’s still cheap as chips to spend a week here – the facilities have improved dramatically, and Balkan and Thomson Ski have both added the resort to their programmes for this winter.

New for this season is a four-seater chairlift which has greatly increased the flow of skiers up the main hill, and shrunk the queues that used to form in the centre of the resort at peak times.

The resort has 22 lifts – most of them drags – servicing a wide range of runs. There’s a good spread of reds and blues, a smattering of blacks and even some enticing off-piste action.

What’s more, the snow record in Kopaonik is more impressive than a lot of mainstream European resorts. It gets snow well into March and it’s not uncommon for people to still be skiing in May.

Typically, when I was there in February the snow coverage was not ideal. While there was plenty lying around, it was turning slushier by the second thanks to a sudden rise in temperature.

After a few exploratory runs to get my bearings, I found my snowboard sticking to the soupy, gloopy mess at the bottom of the Karaman Greben run, so decided to do the sensible thing and head to the bar.

The nearby four-star Hotel Grand is the best in town, with its well-stocked gym, basketball court, climbing wall and spa. However, there are four good hotels dotted around the resort, which cater to a range of budgets. All of them are located within walking distance of the slopes and the all-important nightlife.

Kopaonik’s après-ski scene is not as extensive as that found in some of the more established European resorts, but clients won’t struggle to find a lively night on the tiles. Even though the resort is a fraction of the size, it has an impressive range of bars and clubs.

After a huge dinner of local game and unusual salads at the wonderfully traditional Suri restaurant, where stuffed animals hang from the wooden rafters, I decided to work it off at the Kortina Ski Club. Sweaty, smoky and sexy, it was packed with bright young things getting down to banging ‘Euro house’ music. For something slightly more relaxed, though, I ambled along to the more understated Royal Bar, where you can at least sit down.

The next day dawned bright and sunny – Kopaonik gets around 200 days of sunshine a year – providing the perfect backdrop for exploring the area. I ventured to the Duboka Two run (meaning ‘deep gulley’), which has a cute little bar with a name that translates as ‘cheese hut’. Inside, a roaring fire and cosy, wolfskin-covered seats made it difficult to head back out into the cold. I’m glad I did, though. At the top of the Karamen Greben lift I spotted a cheeky bit of off-piste which, amazingly at 11am, was still utterly untracked.

Most of Kopaonik’s runs are aimed at beginners and intermediates, but there is some steeper stuff dotted about that will bring a smile to an expert skier’s face.

The resort’s ski school is run to International Ski Instructors Association standard and operated by English-speaking guides. Individual lessons cost less than £10 and ski hire is similarly good value.

What you get in Kopaonik is a refreshing cultural experience that suits mixed-ability groups who fancy a break from the norm. The hotels cater well for families – and there’s even a reliable crèche service for youngsters.

While it’s a bit premature to say Kopaonik is the new Andorra, it certainly competes on the cost front. “Andorra is not as cheap as it used to be,” said Balkan Holidays sales and marketing manager Chris Rand. “Kopaonik is great value, both for the cost of the holiday and once you arrive in resort.”

But it’s not just the cost that’s making Brits consider Kopaonik again. “It’s less touristy than Andorra,” said Thomson Ski head of product Stevan Popovich. “It’s also more compact, without the clutter of villages Andorra has. And because it’s in the middle of the Kopaonik National Park, the surrounding countryside is beautifully unspoilt.”