Tunisia: Baby on board

We chose the only rainy day of a week-long stay in Hammamet to take our baby daughter on an organised trip to Carthage, on the coast near Tunis.

First stop, rather worryingly, was the Tophet, where the Carthaginians reputedly dragged their own children for ceremonial sacrifice. Happily, 14-month-old Izzy suffered nothing worse than a wet head, and a surfeit of attention from passing strangers. Lured perhaps, by her blonde curls and blue eyes, they swooped in for a kiss with little more warning than a smile.

Since the sacrifice story was spread by the Romans, who detested Carthage as the home of that upstart Hannibal, it could simply be an example of clumsy propaganda. Either way, today’s Carthaginians appear to go out of their way to dispel the myth of their forbearers’ taste for infanticide.

It’s generally supposed that parents of young children – particularly first-timers – will have difficulty travelling further than north Acton, let alone North Africa. But in Tunisia there are plenty of quality hotels that cater for the demands of the whole family.

As its name suggests, the Hotel Aziza Thalasso Golf in Hammamet offers thalassotherapy and golf, and its sister property across the road has a baby-minding service.

As well as hire cars and taxis, in the main resorts clients can also book organised tours. Aziza guest relations manager Liz Zarrouk, who has a baby daughter of her own, also suggested a private driver.

“In general, organised trips are probably harder to cope with. It is easy to get a car and driver for around £60 per day. This way, you can stop for a break whenever needed.” Neither hire cars nor taxis have baby seats, and bear in mind taxis will only carry four passengers – including the baby.

From Hammamet, we took a cab half an hour south to the Friguia animal park. We met up with our driver an hour later and stopped off in the new resort development of Hammamet Yasmine before returning to the hotel, all for under £20.

With its raised walkways, Friguia is ideal for a buggy. Other major attractions such as the remains of Carthage are also negotiable on four wheels. But archeological sites such as Dougga and El Jem are better suited to slings or baby carriers. The narrow alleys and shops of the medina can usually be navigated with a buggy.

Staying half-board at the Aziza worked out fine for us. Staff were helpful, and the evening buffet always served up something appetising for Izzy. Indoor and outdoor pools plus a clean, sandy beach made a huge difference. In season, the Residence Aziza over the road offers more facilities, including a children’s playground and its own shop for self-catering.

Tunisian National Tourist Office director Leila Ben Hassen is keen to stress how baby-friendly the country is. “Every major hotel has a specifically assigned doctor. Baby food and bottled water, which we recommend for the very young, are widely available,” she said.

Formula milk, baby food and nappies are also available from chemists in the bigger towns and resorts. Of course, if your clients have favourite products or brands, they will probably need to take their own supply.

The summer heat can be a challenge, but steer clear of the peak season and your clients will avoid the only real reason for counting this great destination out of their holiday plans.