As Avalon Waterways launches Avalon Alegria, its debut ship on the Douro, Jane Archer explores Portugal’s prettiest waterway
Call me a wimp but the forecast says rain, the skies are grey and I’ve just switched from the kayaking trip I was planning to a tour that delves into Portugal’s Romanesque architecture.
Boy, am I glad. Instead of getting soaked in the rain, I am soaking up lots of information about Portugal’s kings and queens, the dictatorship that ruled the roost here from 1926 to 1974 and all things Romanesque.
I’m cruising the Douro in northern Portugal with Avalon Waterways, which is not just launching its newest river ship, Avalon Alegria, but also celebrating its debut on the so-called River of Gold.
No one knows quite where the name D’Ouro, meaning ‘of gold’, came from, perhaps alluding to shiny nuggets found in the water back in the mists of time or a nod to the riches that have come from the port wine grapes grown along its banks.
Either way, it is even more apt these days given the river is hot property on the river cruise charts, with lots of long-established lines here and capacity being added to meet ever-increasing demand.
Avalon president Pam Hoffee admits the line is rather late on the scene, a result of its determination to find a Portuguese shipbuilder that would build a vessel to its specifications, rather than dictating the design.
Specifically, Hoffee wanted two decks of signature Panorama Suites, just as Avalon has on all its other river ships. These rooms have floor-to-ceiling walls of glass facing the river that open to a width of more than two metres.
On a sunny day, you can open them up and be part of the scenery; when the weather isn’t playing ball, and the window is closed, the cabin still feels spacious. As an added touch, beds are angled to the window so passengers wake to a view.
However, any fears that Avalon would be behind the booking curve have been immediately dispelled as Avalon Alegria’s cruises have been snapped up. Hoffee says 2024 is all but full, with occupancy close to 98%, while 2025 is 60% sold.
Douro debut
Avalon’s UK managing director Lesley Taylor says river cruise sales in the UK are more than 60% up overall for 2025 and the Douro is a “big chunk” of that. “Our customers have been asking for the Douro for years, but the US got in before us for 2024, so our clients are getting in quick for 2025,” she adds.
Avalon’s core Douro cruise is seven nights, sailing from Porto to Barca d’Alva on the border with Spain and back. An option to add a three-night pre-cruise stay in Lisbon has been taken up by two-thirds of clients this year, says Hoffee.
There’s a choice of two or three excursions at each stop, under the theme classic, discovery or active. They include trips to farms and cathedrals, wine tasting in a manor with a countess, an excursion to the Spanish city of Salamanca, guided bike rides and a walking tour of Porto.
Taylor points to the Douro’s glorious surroundings, history, wine, activities and weather as key selling points for agents, who account for about two-thirds of Avalon’s UK business.
To help increase that, the company has appointed Kelly Calver as key account manager with a specific remit for river cruise sales, while a portal slated to launch in summer will add an extra layer of training for agents. More educational materials, including on the Douro, are planned for this year, and a Suite Rewards programme offers discounts to encourage agents to experience the company’s river cruises first hand.
What to expect on Avalon Alegria
Clients familiar with Avalon will feel immediately at home on Avalon Alegria, which is Portuguese for ‘happiness’. Along with the Panorama Suites, there’s a cosy aft Club Lounge – another signature Avalon feature Hoffee insisted on – where passengers can help themselves to tea, coffee and cookies, and everywhere is light and bright thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows so you never miss the views.
So far, so familiar. What’s different is that a lot of the crew are Portuguese, likewise many of the dishes at lunch and dinner, literally adding a local flavour. “The Portuguese crew bring the destination to life and add local knowledge,” says Hoffee. Breakfasts and lunches are buffets, with served dinners or lighter tapas-style dishes available in the lounge in the evenings.
The top-deck pool is a new feature for Avalon and will be very welcome in summer, when temperatures on the Douro reach 40C or more. Unfortunately, that’s not the case today, but as we’re off in search of history and architecture along the Route of the Romanesque, even the grey skies and drizzle don’t dampen our enthusiasm.
You’d have to be hardcore (and have several days) to do the whole route, which takes in 79 churches, bridges, towers, castles and convents that were built in the Middle Ages and decorated with Romanesque symbolism designed to ‘speak’ to people who could neither read nor write.
Instead we’re heading to Lousada, where an interpretation centre that opened in 2018 sets the scene with various exhibits about the monuments, the builders, the symbols and frescoes.
Afterwards, we visit Travanca Monastery, one of the monuments on the route, where we get to peek behind a locked door at some gory statues that once adorned the building.
Top shore excursions on the Douro
Our inaugural cruise was a variation on the usual itinerary, taking us from Porto to Regua and Pinhão, where the vessel was christened by US actress and comedian Cheri Oteri, before returning to Porto. We were also testing out excursions that may be added in 2025. The kayaking was one option, a tour I did to the Planet Cork museum in Gaia’s World of Wine ought to be another.
Agents who attended Clia’s Destination Showcase in Porto in October 2023 will remember the museum, which covers everything from where cork comes from to the 101 things you can make with it, including bottle-stoppers and sandals.
Guide Maggie kept the pace going through the exhibits as we had a very important date to keep, namely a tasting at Fonseca Port Wine Cellars. To be honest, most excursions ended with a similar very important date, which of course is only fitting when your holiday starts and ends in a city that gave its name to one of the UK’s favourite tipples. Cheers!
Book it:
An eight-day Vida Portugal: Vineyards and Villages Along the Douro cruise on Avalon Alegria costs from £3,128, departing on August 7, including drinks with lunch and dinner, a pre-dinner happy hour, most excursions, Wi-Fi and tips.
avalonwaterways.co.uk
UK managing director Lesley Taylor offers tips on how to sell an Avalon Waterways cruise
Don’t pay extra
Gratuities are included for UK clients. Prices include wine or beer with lunch and dinner and, new for 2024, a pre-dinner happy hour.
Sell to the right client
Sell the Douro to city-break clients, wine lovers and customers who want a relaxing holiday with the option to explore as they please.
Target active travellers
Fitness classes and activities ashore with Avalon’s adventure host are a big selling point for those wanting an active holiday.
