Think Danube cruises are all the same? Think again. A return to river cruising after three decades provides some pleasant surprises for our writer
For lots of us, travel is about serendipity – the unplanned yet fortunate discoveries we make when we take ourselves beyond the familiar.
In a world documented to the nth degree by social media, finding genuinely unknown things is a rarity. Yet here I am in Passau, a German city I’d barely heard of until yesterday, wandering through an arresting glass museum that would normally never be on my must-visit list.
Passau is the first port of call on our Travel Counsellors fam trip, a four-day taster of Avalon Waterways’ eight-day Danube Dreams cruise on board Avalon Impression, sailing from Vilshofen in Germany to Budapest in Hungary. Having had an informative tour of the town – a colourful conurbation set at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers – we have the rest of the day to explore. Helpful suggestions are found on the AvalonGo app, which updates daily with menus, news and information on both the cruise and its stops.
Active and cultural river cruises
The ability to wander at will is just one aspect of river cruising I’d been unaware of. My last river cruise, on the Nile some 30 years ago, was characterised by irritable guides herding huge groups to overcrowded sites. This, by contrast, has us able to come and go as we please, taking part in a range of excursions a world away from my miserable Egyptian memories.
It’s all part of the line’s addition of ‘active’ and ‘discovery’ excursions to the more traditional ‘classic’ tours – which include river cruise standards such as a guided tour of the town or a trip to a nearby heritage site. Instead, activities such as bike rides with picnics, hikes to lofty castles and visits to local farms make for a deeper interaction with and understanding of ports of call and their cultures.
It’s a point of difference Avalon is justifiably proud of. Another is its Panorama Suites, which do away with balconies to create rooms that are said to be 30% bigger than the industry average, with beds facing fully openable windows. Being able to enjoy the changing scenery and breeze in your hair from the comfort of your bed is heavenly – especially when that scenery is the dramatic Schlögen Oxbow horseshoe bend or the soaring vine-terraced slopes of the Danube’s Wachau Valley, overlooked by fairytale castles.
Such idyllic landscapes, plus the mighty locks we sail through and the bridges under which we duck our heads, make time spent on the boat just as enjoyable as time spent off it. This river cruise surprises me with its pace, space and tranquillity; with menus dominated by local produce or in-room dining at no extra charge; with the variety of entertaining shows, demonstrations and films on offer; and most of all with the crew’s unfailing enthusiasm.
Avalon Waterways shore excursions
But best of all were the discoveries made in port. In Linz, I admired paintings by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oscar Kokoschka in the Lentos Art Museum, but also the modern stained glass of the town’s stunning cathedral.
A charming Pöstlingbergbahn tram up Linz’s local mountain offered fabulous views over the town, and an after-dinner outing to the Hauptplatz (Austria’s largest medieval square) took us to an old-school student bar.
In Melk, I eschewed the excursion to the town’s renowned Benedictine abbey for a visit to a farm, where ice cream made with pumpkin seed oil and caramelised pumpkin seeds was a revelation. It was all so unexpected, and even more rewarding as a result.
Arriving in Vienna brought us to the end of our four-day taster. As we made our way past the groups gathering on the quay to explore the Austrian capital’s most popular attractions, we all vowed to return to the Danube to discover even more of the highlights to be found along this endlessly surprising river.
Book it
Avalon Waterways’ eight-day Danube Dreams (westbound) cruise starts at £2,199 per person, based on double occupancy in a Deluxe stateroom. Price includes flights, fullboard dining and selected drinks, excursions and gratuities.
avalonwaterways.co.uk
Ask the agents
Jenny Davis, Travel Counsellors
“My highlight was sitting on the sky deck seeing all the beautiful riverside villages, wineries and stunning autumnal scenery as we cruised along the Danube. If your clients are light sleepers, book a cabin in the middle of the ship to avoid the engine noise.”
Lisa Sanderson, Travel Counsellors
“The quality and choice of the food surprised me, and it was made extra special by ingredients sourced from within a few miles of the ship.
My advice would be don’t over-pack: the atmosphere on board is relaxed, and you won’t need formal wear.”
Charley Robinson, Travel Counsellors
“The beautiful Panorama Suites really impressed me. Relaxing on my bed with the doors open on to the river was a highlight. I wasn’t expecting the variety of included excursions. I particularly liked the more active options of hiking up to viewpoints and cycling along the riverfront.”
Fast fact
Avalon Waterways has 12 new itineraries for 2025, including the 13- day Christmastime from Frankfurt to Budapest and the 22-day European Masterpiece: Rhine, Seine and Rhone Revealed
PICTURES: Lighthouse Productions/Dirk Verwoerd; Avalon Waterways
