Castles galore and a Czech river less travelled are highlights on CroisiEurope’s unique new round-trip sailing from Prague, reports Jeannine Williamson
The water laps gently past the side of the ship as we slowly make our way around a sinuous bend in the river. To my left and right, the steep valley slopes are lined with a luxuriant covering of trees and shrubs. Some people step out on deck to enjoy the scenery and warmth of the morning sun.
We’re the only ones on the waterway – with the exception of ducks and the twice-weekly tourist boat from Prague, which happens to chug past later on. Passengers on both vessels enjoy the novelty, and we take photos of them taking pictures of us. Local residents staying in woodland hideaways also wave, and some even ring cow bells to herald our arrival.
Cruising a new river
Next comes the real ‘wow’ moment as Elbe Princesse II noses into the next stretch of the Vltava River, and we’re confronted by soaring Slapy Dam. The 200ft barrier seems an incongruous sight amid the pastoral landscape.
Then, our guide tells us “slapy” means “rapids”, and this section of the Czech Republic’s longest river had a tempestuous past. Its wild waters were finally tamed with a series of locks and the construction of this mighty dam, which opened in 1955 and took 10 years to complete.
It feels as if we’re discovering a hidden corner of Central Bohemia. Indeed, CroisiEurope is the only river cruise company to feature the Vltava, a tributary of the Elbe.
It can only venture there thanks to paddlewheel technology that you won’t find on any other line outside North America. CroisiEurope first built a paddlewheel vessel with a lightweight hull to navigate the shallow waters of the Loire in France.
In 2015 it launched the Loire Princesse, and it remains the only line to sail there. Itineraries run from Nantes, close to the mouth of the Loire at the Atlantic Ocean; recommend cruise-loving customers join the excursion to Chantiers de l’Atlantique in Saint-Nazaire to see giant ocean ships being constructed and visit the museum dedicated to elegant liners of the past.
Based on the success of the Loire Princesse, the technical wizards launched two ships designed to travel on the Elbe (a river only featured by one other line) in 2016 and 2018.
The Elbe Princesse sister ships sail between Prague and Berlin along the tranquil river amid the rugged scenery of Saxon Switzerland – so-called because of its resemblance to the alpine country.
As I stand aboard the Elbe Princesse II and look out at the Vltava, yet another of CroisiEurope’s unique river routes, I find the sight of those innovative paddlewheels slicing through the water utterly mesmerising.
Prague city centre
Another unique feature of CroisiEurope’s new Castles of Bohemia itinerary is that the cruise starts and finishes in Prague. CroisiEurope is the only line that moors overnight in the heart of the Czech capital, close to the landmark Charles Bridge. This leaves plenty of time to explore the city under your own steam.
The ship’s cheerful and knowledgeable multi-tasking purser is on hand to dish out maps, suggestions of things to do and handy travel tips, such as how to navigate the tram network. Throughout the cruise there are five optional excursions, including two in Prague, which start at £55.
I enjoy the flexibility of not feeling overly organised. On the first day I opt for the guided trip around Prague’s sprawling Castle District, which is listed by Guinness World Records as being the largest castle complex on the planet.
It’s money well spent as our small group explores the ‘best bits’, and our guide gives us a sneak peek of a statue that’s not on show to the public yet. They also share amusing anecdotes as we walk down the steeply sloping Golden Lane, which resembles Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley.
Czech castles
Next up, as we sail back along the Vltava, is Konopiste Castle. Far away from city life, it’s surrounded by countryside, which allowed heir to the Austrian throne Archduke Franz Ferdinand to indulge his obsession with hunting – before his assassination triggered the First World War.
Walking through a series of seemingly endless rooms, it’s fascinating to discover this castle was one of the first in Europe to have mod cons, including electricity and hot and cold running water.
Another day brings Nelahozeves, one of Bohemia’s finest Renaissance castles, which is renowned for its artwork as well as being situated in the village where Czech composer Antonín Dvorak was born. Before turning back towards Prague along the Elbe we stop at Dresden, with the chance to visit the Royal Palace.
Looking at the grand and seemingly historic rooms, it’s hard to believe the palace was completely burned out during wartime bombing, then fully reopened in 2019 after being restored to its former glory.
That evening Dresden’s miraculous rebirth is yet another talking point – one of many fascinating moments on a voyage of discovery that takes in the once-hidden treasure of the Vltava.
Ask the expert
John Fair, UK sales director, CroisiEurope
“Our Castles of Bohemia cruise introduces clients to the Vltava and features glorious scenery and historic castles rich in architectural and cultural history. The itinerary also features plenty of time in the heart of Prague, allowing guests to visit the Old Town as well as Prague Castle and the surrounding areas.
“This itinerary is exclusive to CroisiEurope and is perfect for anyone looking for a more off-the-beaten-track river cruise experience, as well as anyone wanting to enjoy a floating city break as they will get to spend time in Prague as well as in Dresden. Another key selling point is that the cruise takes place on board one of CroisiEurope’s unique paddlewheel ships.”
New frontiers
- Spain: Most clients might not know that there are Spanish river cruises, and CroisiEurope also covers them. From vibrant Seville, the one-of-a-kind La Belle de Cadix heads along the Guadalquivir to the sea, before a short Mediterranean sailing to the Guadiana River that separates Spain and Portugal.
- Africa: For something really unusual there’s CroisiEurope’s southern Africa safari cruise, combining a stay in a luxury lodge with a sailing on Lake Kariba – the world’s largest man-made lake, containing a mysterious sunken forest. The trip ends with a trip to Victoria Falls and the option to book a thrilling helicopter ride over the world’s largest sheet of falling water.
Book it
CroisiEurope’s six-night Castles of Bohemia cruise operates between May and September, with 2024 prices from £1,453 cruise-only, including all meals, drinks and onboard entertainment.
croisieurope.co.uk
visitczechrepublic.com
PICTURES: Box@fotosvacek.cz; Oliver Asmussen/Oceanliner Pictures; Shutterstock/Mistervlad
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