Canmore, the creative side of the Canadian Rockies

Clients in search of outdoor adventure, artsy activities or all-Canadian sports can find them in Canmore, Alberta, discovers Natalie Marsh

“We’re in the mountains – there’s inspiration everywhere,” says Indigenous artist and gallery owner Jason Carter, as I pick up my tools and think carefully about how to turn a square block of soap into an artistic outline of the mountains.

True, we’re surrounded by peaks here in Canmore, one of the gateways to the Rockies in Alberta.

The mountains are beautiful; my soap sculpture, however, doesn’t quite do them justice. I’m trying to carve out the Three Sisters, the famous trio of jagged peaks, as part of a sculpture workshop at the Carter-Ryan Gallery in the heart of this arty town.

Drawing on the traditional techniques of soapstone carving – an art form long practised by some First Nations peoples – Jason talks me through which parts of the soap to cut away, adding layers to the mountains and bringing one of the three into the foreground.

It’s a glimpse of the approach he uses for his own larger, more complex and far more impressive artworks. His soapstone sculptures and bold, brightly coloured artworks draw inspiration from Canadian wildlife and landscapes and are on display at Calgary International airport, among other public spaces.

Just like this creative workshop, they are a fitting introduction to the area, bringing together art, outdoor scenes and contemporary Indigenous culture to offer visitors a taste of what’s to come in Canmore.

How to see the Rockies without the crowds

The Rockies have long been a top destination for tourists heading to western Canada, with big hitters such as Banff National Park, Lake Louise and the Rocky Mountaineer rail journey drawing visitors from around the world.

“Canmore is the largest of the Canadian Rockies destinations, but less busy than better-known mountain destinations,” says Tourism Canmore Kananaskis chief executive Rachel Ludwig.

“It really is a four-season destination, with astonishing adventures available no matter when you visit. Off-season offers fewer crowds at popular attractions; often no need for restaurant reservations; lower accommodation rates; and uniquely Canadian activities.”

When I visit in May, the spring colours are beginning to pop, while patches of snow cling to the mountains that surround Canmore in the Bow Valley – the last remnants of the long winter.

It’s perfect hiking weather, as we set off on a trail to Grassi Lakes on the edge of town with Indigenous guide Heather Black. Heather owns Buffalo Stone Woman, which offers guided hikes in the area. For those keen to pair a trek with more Indigenous stories and traditions, some experiences come with a meal made by the elders in her community and eaten over a fireside chat.

We take to the path. Although it’s not very steep, at 1,500m above sea level, the altitude is noticeable, so we pause a few times on the ascent to catch our breath. We reach an opening where the trailhead gives way to a bird’s-eye view of the breathtaking scenery below.

“Are you guys ready for a war cry?” Heather asks, as she projects her voice at volume out into the open, cutting through the silence with her powerful cry.

There’s something quite spiritual about being in the mountains, surrounded by the raw and brilliant nature for which Canada is known.

Where to eat in Canmore

The town, and the surrounding wilderness of Kananaskis, is easy to reach too, being just over an hour from the city bounds of Calgary.

Canmore’s main streets are home to artsy boutiques, galleries, quirky coffee shops and bookstores sitting alongside a choice of hotels and quality restaurants.

The culinary scene is thriving, with restaurants such as Sauvage providing a truly memorable dining experience. Its seven-course tasting option offers a choice of two menus, ‘The Hunter’ and plant-based alternative ‘The Gatherer’, both incorporating foraged ingredients and menus that change according to what can be sourced. The ‘Ring my shell’ course featured melt-in-your-mouth scallops, while a dessert called ‘Ants on a log’ looked almost exactly as described.

Get a taste of Canadian ice hockey

Though many flock to this area for their love of the great outdoors, you only need to head to the Canmore Recreation Centre to experience something else quintessentially Canadian: hockey.

The centre is the home of the Canmore Eagles, a well-regarded junior hockey (or ice hockey to Brits) team, and we’re here to shoot some pucks for ourselves.

Participants over the age of six can be booked on to the two-hour Learn to be a Canadian Hockey Player group experience – coach Andrew Milne even once helped a 92-year-old tourist join in.

Andrew runs us through the rules of hockey, shares some inspiring video clips from the National Hockey League and gives us a tour of the dressing rooms.

We then layer up with the required padding, helmet, gloves and skates. I take my stick and use it to balance as I step on to ice, trying to avoid a Bambi moment. It’s hard to imagine skating at speed, and I have a new appreciation for the skills needed to pull off a Stanley Cup championship win.

That’s not the only thing I treasure when it’s time to leave the mountains behind. With my soap sculpture of the mountains carefully packed in my luggage, I’m grateful I can take my own piece of the peaks with me.

Book it

Canadian Affair offers a 10-night fly-drive, Canadian Rockies from Canmore, from £2,998, departing May 5, 2025. The price includes Air Canada flights, 11 days’ car hire, three-star accommodation, a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, historical walking tour in Canmore, helicopter flight over the Three Sisters and journey on the Banff Gondola.
canadianaffair.com

Air Canada flies daily from Heathrow to Calgary year-round, with standard fares from £637 including luggage. aircanada.com
Learn more with the Canada Specialist Program at canadaspecialist.co.uk

Accessible adventures in the Rocky Mountains

One glance at the rugged mountains and I can see climbing them is no easy feat, but for visitors with limited mobility or visual impairment, even heading on a mountain hike might seem like an impossible task.

Enter Rocky Mountain Adaptive, a charity that provides opportunities for people with accessibility needs to embark on adventures in the wilderness. It offers a range of specialist equipment, along with expert leaders and volunteers, to ensure those with accessibility needs can have the same adventures as able-bodied people.

From customised kayaks to assisted e-bikes, there’s equipment for both summer and winter activities. Modifications to kayaks include a paddle pivot and fully supported seats; sit-skis help those who can’t stand take to the slopes; and tandem bikes allow people with vision impairments to sit on the back seat and be guided by the person in the front.

We test out a walk with the TrailRider – a seat with a wheel, assisted by one person in the front and one at the back.

All Rocky Mountain Adaptive’s equipment is available for rent at reasonable prices (about £15 a day to rent a TrailRider). Last year, the organisation operated 2,700 experiences.

Programme manager Kim Cosman says one of the best things about her role is “seeing those moments when a person gets to be independent in their chosen activity”. She adds: “They’re in charge of their experience and set up to be the best that they can be in this environment – that’s a big one for me.”

Canines of Cochrane, Alberta

Animal lovers will enjoy a visit to Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary in Cochrane, almost halfway between Calgary and Canmore. Set up by Georgina De Caigny in 2011 after realising the challenges of raising wolfdogs – a crossbreed of the two canine species – the sanctuary has been taking in these rescued animals from others who have had a similar experience.

The location has grown rapidly and now covers 160 acres and is home to 62 animals. Each animal has a ‘wolf content’ showing how much wolf makes up its DNA. Our guide Kyra tells us this is one factor to consider – along with age and personality – when grouping them into packs of two or three. Guests can explore independently or take an interactive tour (£51) to enter the enclosures and get closer to the wolfdogs.

PICTURES: Tourism Canmore Kananaskis; Bow Media; Travel Alberta/Katie Goldie; Natalie Marsh