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Why the Maldives are so much more than beautiful beaches
Got clients who think the Maldives isn’t for them? There’s more to these islands than meets the eye
I was floating 40 metres above an abyss, yet I’d never been more relaxed. Here, the knobbly house reef of the Oblu Nature Helengeli by Sentido resort falls away into the depths of the Indian Ocean.
I wasn’t the only creature enjoying the warm Maldivian waters; a turtle munched on brain coral below, while reef sharks wiggled lazily past.
For all its beauty, the Maldives had never previously appealed to me. I prefer going out to staying in, and after a couple of hours of relaxing solo, I fidget and make to-do lists.
With no historic landmarks or specific attractions to see, I had visions of being marooned – nay, bored – on a desert island. As Ken said in the 2023 Barbie film, the Maldives would be ‘just beach’.
Oblu Nature Helengeli by Sentido
The 153-room resort (pictured main) is well situated for Maldives novices, as it’s just a 50-minute speedboat ride from the airport in Malé.
Walking to my overwater villa, I quickly found myself marvelling at slow-moving stingrays beneath the jetty. Once inside, an interior balcony over the sea turned the villa into my own aquarium.
Helengeli’s reef is home to more than 200 marine species, as the island is positioned at an entrance to the North Malé Atoll, with flowing channels on either side.
My morning routine switched from catching trains to catching the lagoon at its most active, before I headed to the dive centre to compare notes with the enthusiastic instructors.
Clients new to the underwater world can head out on daily guided snorkelling tours with marine biologists, wading in from the safety of the beach.
Having time to spend on self-indulgence and leisure meant the rest of my days in paradise filled up fast: activities on the all-inclusive plan, booked via Helengeli’s app, ranged from sunrise yoga and mixology classes to dhoni boat trips and diving taster sessions.
Food in the Maldives
Raga Route, Oblu Nature Helengeli by Sentido. Image credit: Muhaphotos2024
Food has always been a key motivator for my travels, so I was apprehensive about the lack of independent restaurants or street eats that comes as part of a resort stay in the Maldives.
I needn’t have worried: at The Spice, the overwater restaurant where a buffet breakfast is served, there was everything from buttery roti to caramel cronuts.
One evening, chef Rajat Sharma coyly asked if I liked Indian food. Yes, I replied, going for a second helping of paratha with my chickpea curry.
We met again at Raga Route – one of two speciality restaurants, which guests can visit every fourth night as part of the all-inclusive plan – where Sharma presided over a menu of modern Indian delights.
“We make everything with 45 spices – and love, of course,” he said. Coconut soup was served as a palate cleanser, using fruits from the tall trees lining the resort’s sandy paths. Next was a platter of poppadoms in a variety of shapes, from noodles to rice cakes.
“Every 15 miles in India, the flavours change, and there are more than 500 varieties of poppadom. This platter reflects north, east, south and west,” Sharma added. It was a fitting start to an innovative feast of flavours – and a spectacular finale to my time on Helengeli.
Raaya by Atmosphere
If your clients think they’ll run out of things to do in the Maldives, suggest a twin-centre itinerary, so that they can experience new sights, sounds and smells. After Helengeli, I took the 45-minute seaplane journey from Malé to five-star Raaya by Atmosphere (pictured above), which opened in 2024.
Raaya offers an even more action-packed activity roster, with windsurf hire, sunset fishing and sound baths, as well as a 45-minute spa treatment included in each stay.
Guests can also take a complimentary tour of Seb’s Farm – a 2,500sq m kitchen garden that opened last year – or splash out $100 to pick produce that will be transformed into delicate, delicious plates for dinner, which is then paired with a fine selection of global wines.
Garden guide Alex was keen to point out the 30 types of fruit, veg and herbs in Seb’s Farm, then made light work of plucking fresh white aubergines, chillis, courgettes and sweetcorn stalks from the plots. “Be active today, and leave room in your stomach,” he said. “I need you to try everything!”
Heeding his advice, I toured Raaya’s sports facilities. There’s a gym, yoga pavilion and even more to try: a vast clearing in the island’s interior houses futsal (a variant of football) and padel courts, a nine-hole mini-golf course and even a skateboarding circuit.
However, I found it too hot to enjoy any of these after mid‑morning, so advise active clients to book early sessions.
Produce from Seb’s Farm, Raaya by Atmosphere
Watersports in the Maldives
Paddleboarding at Raaya by Atmosphere
To cool down, I hit the beach. Raaya’s house reef is 350 metres from shore and less vibrant than Helengeli’s, but there is still plenty to see. Watersports instructor Dom said: “The area around Raaya has a high chance of stingrays, as they move towards Baa Atoll. You might see 10 eagle rays at once – especially when stand‑up paddleboarding.”
I paddled out in the hope of encountering a member of the spotty species. Instead, I heard a call to prayer carried on the wind from neighbouring Rasmaadhoo island. For an additional $75, clients can take an excursion to see where locals live, work and play; but I was content to hear the rhythmic chant from the peace of my board.
Returning to Seb’s Farm with an empty stomach, I wandered beneath fairy lights to the dining table at the heart of the farm. The four‑course menu depends on what’s harvested, but expect a blend of local and international favourites.
My menu featured Maldivian garudhiya fish soup, penne in pesto made with sharp Thai basil grown directly behind my seat, and caramelised banana served in a freshly‑hacked coconut husk.
Maldives wildlife
Reclining on the outdoor sofa of the beach villa on my final night, gazing up at the stars as fruit bats swirled overhead, I noticed a slight rustle in the bushes.
The noise was quickly followed by one of the resort’s conservationists springing into action to help hatchling turtles reach the sea, their flippers stroking the air and dark eyes blinking in the moonlight.
Wandering to the shore to watch the little ones set out, I pondered how, even without the distractions of city life, I’d started to feel more comfortable in my own company.
In the Maldives, time is entirely your own – whether you choose to spend it in pursuit of wildlife, dipping a toe into new activities or simply with your nose in a book.
Book it
Kuoni offers seven nights’ all-inclusive at Oblu Nature Helengeli by Sentido from £3,249, based on two sharing a Deluxe Beach Villa. The price includes transfers and flights via Sri Lanka from Heathrow, based on select November departures.
kuoni.co.uk
Gold Medal sells seven nights’ all-inclusive at Raaya by Atmosphere from £2,999 per person, based on two adults and a child sharing a Beach Villa with Pool. The price includes transfers and flights from Heathrow via Sri Lanka on October 24.
goldmedal.co.uk
A turtle at Oblu Nature Helengeli by Sentido’s house reef. Image credit: muhaphotos.com
Four marine species to spot in the Maldives
Parrotfish: These blue-and-pink fish help protect the reef – a single parrotfish can excrete 450kg of sand each year, helping to form a diverse seabed.
Clownfish: Clients can find Nemo hidden among the anemone fronds, as these orange fish shelter from predators.
Turtles: Five of seven turtle species can be sighted in the Maldives: green and hawksbill turtles are the most common.
Octopus: This smart cephalopod hides in plain sight, so head out with a marine biologist for the best chance of spotting one.
Restaurants at Raaya by Atmosphere
The Village: This Italian option serves hearty plates of ravioli, breads dipped in olive oil and creamy tiramisu.
Ampersand: This two-storey beachfront restaurant features Japanese-inspired sushi platters, comfy loungers and a sizeable roof terrace to drink creative cocktails.
Mizaj: The Middle Easterninfluenced tapas at this poolside joint ranges from seared halloumi to chicken shish kebab and roasted aubergine dips.
Insider insight
Jose Gregorio Manzo, assistant vice-president international sales, Atmosphere Core
“We offer our UK partners regular training, tailored offers, fam trips and commercial support. We have hosted more than 60 agents and selling partners at Raaya by Atmosphere, giving them the full guest experience, including Seb’s Story.
Guests uncover treasures left behind by Seb, a [fictional] artist shipwrecked on the island – from Seb’s Farm to an artists’ zone that offers the opportunity to paint a model of a dhoni boat.”
Lead image credit: ©Muhaphotos2024
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