Discover Seoul, the newest city on Virgin Atlantic's network

Rooftops of Bukchon Hanok Village. Image credit: Sayan uranan/Shutterstock.

Historic sites in Seoul

Star of the show is Gyeongbokgung Palace (pictured main), built in 1395 and the largest of the five grand residences left by the Joseon Dynasty. 

Although little of what stands today is original – it was mostly destroyed by the Japanese in the 16th century – the palace remains an impressive sight and also offers a glimpse of one of Seoul’s most curious spectacles: the art of hanbok.

Strolling among the lotus ponds, throne halls and surprisingly colourful wooden shrines are countless people in period costume.

Such behaviour might be met with disdain and possibly even offence in other destinations, but in South Korea, where grace, respect and national pride rule supreme, it’s positively encouraged. In fact, it’s an entire industry. 

Widely available from hanbok rental shops near the palace, the practice of hiring out the eye-catching garments is designed to bring guests closer to Korean culture – with fun photo opportunities too.

A stone’s throw away is Bukchon, a historic neighbourhood where quaint hanok houses hark back to a time before Seoul was transformed into a skyscraper-filled metropolis. More recently, Bukchon was a filming location for movie blockbuster KPop Demon Hunters, attracting a fresh wave of admirers to the narrow alleys that remain home to a thriving community.

In a bid to curb disruption, a strict curfew is in place (no visitors after 5pm) and the district is policed by sign wielding ‘guardians’ who ask people to talk quietly – something clients might also find on trains and in other public places across this exceptionally polite nation.

When the throngs get too much, make a beeline for Cha Teul, a quaint, century-old teahouse, for a cup of traditional ssanghwa-tang herbal tea – slightly bitter and brewed from 12 medicinal ingredients – alongside a piece of steamed pumpkin rice cake.

People gather in a teahouse in Seoul. Image credit: PatChan_HK/Shutterstock.

K-culture in Seoul

Back in the 21st century, the impact and influence of South Korean culture is not to be underestimated. Beyond the stratospheric success of boyband BTS, who kicked off a world tour in Seoul in March after the band members took a break to do military service, the list is ever-growing.

Think Netflix hit Squid Game, girl group Blackpink, 2020 Oscars best picture Parasite and KPop Demon Hunters, which also picked up two Academy Awards at this year’s ceremony. And no trip to Seoul would be complete without a visit to Gangnam, the neighbourhood catapulted to fame in 2012 with the release of Psy’s toe-tapping hit Gangnam Style (don’t pretend you don’t know the dance moves!).

Set on the southern banks of the Han River and once little more than farmland and scattered villages, Seoul’s explosive growth in the 1970s transformed its rice paddies into a thriving hub of wealth and ambition that reflected modern Korean identity.

Yet Gangnam is more than gloss and glitz. Within minutes of the modern design masterclass that is Starfield Library, where floor-to-ceiling shelves carry the literary weight of 70,000 books, sits 1,200-year-old Bongeunsa Temple, a shrine of stillness and reflection.

The Gangnam neighbourhood, Seoul. Image credit: Flying Camera/Shutterstock.

Day trips from Seoul

But nowhere invites reflection as much as the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), 30 miles north of the capital. A visit to this heavily guarded stretch of land between South Korea and the dictator-led north lays bare the disparities of life on the Korean peninsula.

Access to the 2.5-mile-wide no man’s land is, as you would expect, tightly controlled and open only to pre-approved tour groups – but it’s worth planning ahead for the chance to stand on an elevated viewing platform with powerful telescopes all pointed towards the world’s most secretive state.

Staring deeply through the lens at grainy scenes of impoverished farmers tending their land and the dwellings of the nearby border town raises all manner of complex questions about the world, its future and our own place within it. And if that moment of insight isn’t the greatest gift that travel can bestow, then what is?

Mondrian Seoul Itaewon exterior.

Where to stay in Seoul: Mondrian Seoul Itaewon

True to its brand, the Mondrian is one of Seoul’s most design-led hotels. The 295-room property in the hillside district of Itaewon offers a more contemporary design than most of the city’s other five-star addresses. Think bold colours, a maximalist aesthetic and large art installations under soaring ceilings in the public spaces, with a more reserved style in the rooms.

But it’s not all top marks: the elevators are frustratingly slow, a sore point for a high-rise hotel and something to be addressed as the city’s luxury scene continues to grow, with a new Rosewood opening its doors next year and Mandarin Oriental following in 2030. Doubles from £150 per night.
mondrianhotels.com/seoul-itaewon

Virgin Atlantic celebrates the launch of its London-Seoul service. Image credit: Adam Gerrard.

Getting there

Virgin Atlantic flies daily from Heathrow to Seoul Incheon yearround, on a B 787-9 Dreamliner, with return fares from £849 in Economy, £1,399 in Premium and £3,239 in Upper Class.
virginatlantic.com

Lead image: Gyeongbokgung Palace. Image credit: Shutterstock/Kampon