Learning to surf – and slow down – on a wellness escape to Costa Rica offers the perfect antidote to an empty nest
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Michelle Obama famously likes to go high when others go low – in more ways than one. Speaking on Jay Shetty’s On Purpose podcast in April, she shared how she has turned to therapy to help her transition into being an empty-nester.
I can relate. My daughter, Maya, left home to study French at the University of Manchester two years ago then moved even further away – to Paris for her year abroad. Rather than take to a therapist’s couch, I chose a different approach, opting for a return to Costa Rica where, fittingly, I spent my university year abroad.
Revisiting a place where I was blissfully free of responsibility and mid-life money worries was therapy enough. It’s a beachy and biodiverse country where hiking, yoga, surfing – I had a fantasy of learning to surf in my 50s – and farm-to-fork food wrap you up in a wellness embrace. With so much to offer, it’s small wonder the peaceful nation is many travellers’ first option for a Central American adventure.
After a direct flight to San José, the compact capital city in the Central Valley, and a one-night reunion with a ‘Tica’ friend (as Costa Ricans call themselves) over a couple of bottles of local Imperial lager, it was a short hop on a small Cessna plane to the Pacific coast where I’d spent so much time more than 30 years ago.
Flying over the lush landscapes below to Tamarindo on the Nicoya Peninsula – preferable to the alternative of a five-hour drive and ferry crossing – gives a bird’s-eye view of the scale of Costa Rica’s lush green landscapes, an ideal introduction for first-time visitors.
Surf haven Santa Teresa sits on the tip of the peninsula and is home to boutique Hotel Nantipa, which blends barefoot luxury with a strong sustainability ethos. Low-lit palm-lined paths snake around the gardens, leading to beach-chic bungalows and villas with leafy patios and plunge pools.
Locally made furniture, energy sensors and solar-powered water heaters combine with Costa Rican ingredients such as papaya and herbs that are used everywhere, from the restaurants to the alfresco spa.
The team is mainly local and tell me that just six trees were felled for use in the hotel’s construction. Guests are invited to embrace the eco-friendly vibe – they can grab a bucket for short beach clean-ups and are rewarded with a healthy smoothie.
All-day dining at thatched-roof Manzú restaurant suits the fuss-free vibe perfectly. Facing the white-sand beach, friendly staff served ceviche and patacones – golden fried plantain – accompanied by creamy refried beans and spicy margaritas.
Dips in Nantipa’s freshwater pool, which is surrounded by tropical foliage, were a highlight of each day, as was yoga after dark when the sounds of nature added to the calming feel.
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