Explore Istria, the underrated region in Croatia with new flights from the UK

Pula’s impressive Roman amphitheatre. Image credit: Adam Batterbee

 

Istria’s only airport is in its main city, Pula. Some holidaymakers might be tempted to skip straight out of the city in favour of the coastal resorts, but that would mean missing out on one of Croatia’s greatest ancient Roman sites, the 1st-century AD Pula Arena.

 

Built around the same time as Rome’s Colosseum, it’s one of the best-preserved amphitheatres in the world and definitely worth a visit.

A street in Rovinj. Image credit: Shutterstock/SCStock

 

From Pula, buses run to the most popular resorts, Rovinj and Poreč, but there’s much more to see along the coast and inland for clients who hire a car.

 

South of Pula, past the lively resort of Medulin, the landscape gets more rugged. Here, at Istria’s southernmost tip, is the Premantura peninsula, home to Cape Kamenjak Nature Park.

 

Adventure-seeking holidaymakers come here to swim from rocky and pebbly beaches, watch locals jump from cliffs or rent a kayak or paddleboard to explore a jagged coastline pockmarked with caves.

Cape Kamenjak. Image credit: Aleksandar Gospic

 

Off-the-beaten-track Croatia

 

North of Pula is the attractive fishing village of Fažana – worth a stop in itself just to stroll around its colourful lanes and have a swim. But it’s also the departure point for the 15-minute boat ride to Brijuni National Park, which certainly qualifies as one of Croatia’s oddest places – in the nicest sense of the word.

 

Of the archipelago’s 14 islands, two are open to the public, and it’s the larger of the two, Veliki Brijun, that contains the quirkiest mishmash of history. It was inhabited during the Roman and Byzantine empires, became an aristocratic playground under the influence of an Austrian industrialist in the 19th century and later, a summer residence for former Yugoslav president Tito.

 

That storied past has left a mix of ruins alongside much later additions including a golf course, several hotels and villas, beaches and even a safari park.

 

Holidaymakers driving around Istria will soon spot countless signs advertising wineries and olive farms. Istrians pride themselves on their award-winning wines and olive oils, and connoisseurs are spoilt for choice.

 

The restaurant and bar at Meneghetti.  Image credit: Matej Paluh

 

One of Croatia’s finest hotels, Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery, a 20-minute drive north of Fažana, has always been a go-to place for top-quality wines and oils. 

 

This year, the hotel opened its Wine Lounge for tastings and there’s a new events space for weddings in this idyllic spot, surrounded by olive groves and oak and cypress trees.

 

What to see in Rovinj, Croatia

 

Another half-hour drive along Istria’s west coast leads to one of Croatia’s most breathtaking towns, Rovinj, which embodies Venetian-style elegance. Its old town is on a thumb-shaped peninsula topped with the baroque spire of St Euphemia Church, with narrow lanes swirling around it. Because it’s one of the most exquisite places in Croatia, it does get busy.

 

Picturesque Rovinj harbour at night. Image credit: Adam Batterbee

 

An appealing option is to stay at the three-star Island Hotel Katarina, set on a little isle a 10-minute boat ride from Rovinj’s harbour. There’s a beach here too, so even if clients are staying in the town, they can hop over for a swim – and enjoy some of the best views of Rovinj while they’re there.

 

A close rival to Rovinj in its beauty is Poreč, the largest tourist resort in Istria and home to the Unesco-listed 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica.

 

The old town has kept its Venetian charm and it’s in the surrounding areas where holidaymakers can find large beach resorts geared toward families.

 

Istria’s inland hilltop villages are nearly as much of a draw as its coastline. 

 

Motovun is the best known, and while its medieval square at the top of the village can get crowded during the season, it’s a pleasant stop on one of the cycling tours on the Parenzana bike trail that follows a former narrow-gauge railway line from Trieste to Poreč.

 

Motovun is also truffle country and foodies will want to visit one of the farms such as Karlić Tartufi, where you can go on a truffle hunt with their adorable dogs, followed by a truffle-tastic lunch in the restaurant. It’s a true taste of Istria.

 

Motovun, Croatia. Image credit: Shutterstock/Mazur Travel

 

 

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Book it

 

Jet2holidays offers seven nights on a B&B basis at BO Hotel Palazzo in Poreč from £1,004 per person, twinshare, including flights and transfers.
jet2holidays.com

 

Completely Croatia offers a five-night stay at Hotel Spirito Santo in Rovinj from £1,549 per person, based on two sharing on a B&B basis. The price includes flights and the choice of private transfers or car hire.
completelycroatia.co.uk

 

 

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Where to stay in Istria

 

A restaurant at the Park Plaza Histria Pula.

 

Park Plaza Histria Pula is on the Verudela peninsula south of Pula’s city centre, with an outdoor pool and nearby beach. B&B doubles from €210.
arenahotels.com

 

Hotel Neptun on Veliki Brijun faces the harbour and is built in traditional 19th-century Austrian style. Doubles from €162 B&B, including ferry transfer and one free return crossing a day per stay.
np-brijuni.hr/en/accommodation

 

Valamar Riviera Hotel & Residence is on the seafront in Poreč old town, with free access to the sister hotel’s facilities on nearby Sveti Nikola island. B&B doubles from €169.
valamar.com

 

Maistra Select Island Hotel Katarina is a 10-minute boat ride from Rovinj and has an outdoor pool and beach access. All boat journeys are included in the room rate. Room-only doubles from €169.
maistra.com

 

The sundeck at the Maistra Select Island Hotel Katarina. Image credit: SGFd.o.o

 

Lead image credit: Shutterstock/xbrchx