An LGBTQ+ guide to Portland, Oregon

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A hush descends as velvet curtains rise. Staff tiptoe through a crowd of hen parties, tour groups and regulars, serving trays of potent cocktails. Earlier, my driver insisted that a visit to Portland was incomplete without experiencing a drag revue at Darcelle XV Showplace – and she was right.

Performers appear out of nowhere sporting sequined gowns, feather boas and sky-scraping wigs. Uproarious applause eventually gives way to an iconic Sister Sledge anthem, which encapsulates the city’s collective impulse to embrace every resident, no matter who they are. We Are Family becomes my new soundtrack for the city.

According to the venue’s new owner, Jeremy Corvus-Peck, Darcelle’s is a safe space that reflects Portland’s inclusive and diverse culture. When he purchased the business from the late, eponymous owner, he was inundated with offers from Portlanders to restore the building to its former glory and shake off the residue of the pandemic and all the challenges it brought.

“So much has improved for gay people since Darcelle’s opened in 1967,” Jeremy says, adding that the building has been listed in the National Register of Historic Places for its role in advancing LGBTQ+ rights. “But it’s not always easy being queer in America today, primarily because of what’s happening at federal level.”

In Hopscotch, a thrilling immersive art experience, I notice statements such as ‘No hate in my state’ and ‘Pride lives here’ emblazoned across glass panels.

Heather Anderson, director of international tourism administration for Travel Portland, believes this northwestern city is a sanctuary for those seeking a reprieve from the political climate elsewhere in the country. “Here, Pride doesn’t occur once a year but every day,” she says. “We champion everyone, regardless of sexuality, gender or ethnicity.”

Where to eat and drink in Portland, Oregon