Spying dragons and restoring coral reefs in Indonesia

SeaTrek Sailing Adventures’ two ships, Ombak Putih and Katharina

Extraordinary as it is, this exhilarating encounter is just one of many big – in every sense – wildlife experiences during my SeaTrek Sailing Adventures voyage. I’m on board the 24-passenger Ombak Putih, whose name means ‘white wave’. Built as a cargo ship, the masted pinisi (traditional Indonesian sailing vessel) has been lovingly converted and is now one of two character-packed ships run by the Indonesian expedition cruise operator.

 

The journey started with a one-night stay in Bali, before a short flight to Flores island. Meeting my small group of fellow travellers on the quayside, there’s a tangible feeling of anticipation as we climb down into the transfer boat and catch our first glimpse of Ombak Putih’s distinctive pointed bow. Crew members wave from the deck, calling out “welcome on board” and greeting us with freshly squeezed juices.

The group at the Boat Festival in Isen Mulang, Kalimantan. Image credit: Wow Borneo

 

I quickly settle into my cosy wood-panelled cabin and stow my things away in nooks and crannies. The rooms feature a mix of doubles and bunk beds and it’s not long before I’m lulled to sleep by the gently soothing creak of the ship’s ironwood hull.

 

Indonesia via small-ship cruise

Kicking back in Kalimantan. Image credit: Wow Borneo

 

The ensuing days fall into an equally easy pattern of exciting excursions, both on land and sea, and chilling out on gorgeous beaches tinged blush pink by glistening fragments of coral washed ashore by the clear waters.

 

The village of Tundai. Image credit: Wow Borneo

 

Invariably, we are the only people on the beach. Indeed, while we see a few other boats during the week, including SeaTrek’s smaller second ship Katharina, other vessels are a rarity. Most are tourist day boats and, at night, as the orange sun dips behind remote volcanic islands, we are alone beneath the inky star-studded sky.

 

One night I camp out on deck, cocooned in a sleeping bag. Although I admit defeat and retreat to my cabin when the wind whips up in the early hours, it adds to the sense of adventure.

 

How to spot dragons in Komodo National Park

 

Another day brings the chance to walk with dragons. Unesco-listed Komodo National Park is an archipelago of islands, several of which are home to the world’s biggest lizards and the only place to see them in the wild. The largest population of Komodo dragons is on the namesake island and our skipper ensures we’re the first ship to arrive, providing the best chance of seeing them as they wake and emerge to warm up in the morning sunshine.

 

A Komodo dragon. Image credit: Wow Borneo

 

Lumbering out of the undergrowth, tongues flicking in and out, these 3m-long reptiles are a formidable sight. Like the whale sharks, they are indifferent to our company – although I feel reassured when the park guide says they eat only once a month.

 

Thankfully, we don’t have to wait that long.

 

Every day, the crew conjures up an array of fresh and tasty meals from the small galley, with fish, stir fries, veggie dishes and salads served buffet style. After dinner, insightful talks by the excellent tour leaders prepare us for the following day.

 

The experiences come thick and fast. We snorkel above kaleidoscopic coral reefs; get hands on with an inspiring coral-conservation project; hop on the back of motorbikes to reach a waterfall, where we swim beneath the cascade; see a pinisi being built on a beach, using centuries-old techniques; and enjoy a magical beach barbecue under the stars.

 

One morning, we bathe in the lake on Satonda Island. Created by a volcanic eruption, the inland lake was later filled with seawater, following a massive tsunami wave. Today, the glassy crater lake feels serene and peaceful, surrounded by lush vegetation.

 

Locals believe it has magical properties, so we join in with the custom of tying a stone to one of the ‘wishing trees’ by the water’s edge and making a silent wish.

It’s said if the wish comes true, you will return to the lake.

 

I certainly hope mine does.

 

 

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Book it

 

Kuoni offers a 10-night SeaTrek with Whale Sharks, Corals & Dragons itinerary from £6,199 per person, departing in April 2026. The price includes a night before and after the cruise at Puri Santrian Beach Resort in Bali, plus eight nights on board (all meals and soft drinks included) and Malaysia Airlines flights from Heathrow.
kuoni.co.uk

 

 

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Ask the expert

 

 

Nancy Verboom, senior product executive, Kuoni

 

“SeaTrek Sailing Adventures offers the opportunity for clients to immerse themselves in nature and culture, which is at the very heart of Komodo and the surrounding islands. Each day is a mix of discovery, relaxation and exceptional Indonesian cuisine, curated by the passionate local crew, many of whom have been with SeaTrek since its inception.

 

Along with the knowledgeable tour leaders, they take extraspecial care of guests, and love to show Indonesia through the eyes of those who call it home.

 

SeaTrek operates two traditional wooden sailing ships: Ombak Putih, with 12 cabins, and Katharina, with six. The latter can also be chartered for a family adventure. Bali, the Gili Islands and Lombok can also be added to make an epic multi-centre trip.”

 

 

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What to know before a SeaTrek Sailing Adventure

 

❂ Who’s it for: Suitable for relatively active and mobile travellers of all ages, SeaTrek attracts solos, couples and groups of friends. Many would never consider big-ship cruising, so don’t just think of established cruise clients – suggest it to those that book long-haul land stays.

 

❂ How to pack: SeaTrek’s ships are laid-back and passengers are encouraged not to wear shoes, to protect the wooden decks. Sarongs, water bottles, snorkelling equipment and sunscreen are provided, so advise customers to pack light. Do recommend bringing water shoes and a change of swimwear.

 

❂ What to do: Don’t let nervous clients be deterred by the number of snorkelling tours, as SeaTrek’s guides can teach guests who have never snorkelled before. Flotation aids are available and swimmers can return to the vessel at any time.

 

❂ What to drink: While a small selection of drinks is available to purchase, passengers are actively encouraged to bring their favourite wines and spirits on board. Mixers and soft drinks are included in the fare.

 

Coral reef restorations in Indonesia. Image credit: SeaTrek Sailing Adventures

 

Lead image credit: Wow Borneo