Spying dragons and restoring coral reefs in Indonesia

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Of the few times I’ve been snorkelling, I’ve usually been the last person to spot anything. While others point in the direction of darting fish, I’m the one faffing around with my mask and mouthpiece. On occasions, I’ve been left wondering if I was even on the same trip when participants later reel off a long list of everything they’ve spotted.

However, this time even I can’t miss the creatures we’re all hoping to see. As I lower myself off the side of a small boat into Indonesia’s invitingly warm Flores Sea, two enormous shapes immediately dominate the underwater scene.

In front of our small group, and oblivious to our presence, are a pair of whale sharks, each about 12m long. Despite their size, they move slowly and gracefully, showing off their creamy bellies and blue backs dotted with hundreds of white spots. 

Sharks, rather than whales, they’re the world’s largest fish – but we have nothing to fear from these gentle and endangered creatures.

As filter feeders, they eat only plankton and small fish that they suck into cavernous 1.5m-wide mouths.

They’ve formed a win-win alliance with local fishermen who work from floating wooden platforms off Moyo Island, getting to scoop up leftovers while giving visitors incredible close-up views. As with any wildlife, sightings are never guaranteed, but you stand a very good chance of seeing them here.

How to island-hop in Indonesia