Destinations

Q&A: What’s the Inca Trail like now it’s fully reopened?

Sasha Wood interviews Alexander ‘Chocho’ Nunez, Inca Trail Guide for G Adventures

Q. Tell us a bit about yourself – how long have you worked with G Adventures?

A. I’ve been working with G Adventures in different roles for nearly 10 years now. I started as an assistant guide on the Lares Trek, one of the Sacred Valley routes and a great alternative to the Inca Trail. I had studied tourism at university, so I knew this was the type of career I wanted to pursue.

To work on the Inca Trail you have to pass a number of exams, so I gained experience working with travellers hiking both [the Mollepata and Classic] routes, took my tests and progressed to be a head guide. Since then, I’ve led more than 300 groups along the Inca Trail – it’s been a dream come true.

Q. While travel was on hold during the pandemic, how did you and your community cope without tourism?

A. The pandemic has been really difficult for everyone, especially those who work in tourism. My hometown of Cusco relies heavily on tourism, from the tour operators and hotels to local indigenous communities who sell their handicrafts. We were very fortunate as G Adventures offered support to its guides, porters and the local communities it works with.

Q. How did you feel when you heard the trail would reopen?

A. Oh wow! It was the best news. We couldn’t wait to welcome travellers back to Peru. The first trip was really special. I’ve led so many trips during my years with G Adventures, but this truly was the most emotional and memorable.

Q. How did the travellers you took out feel about travelling again? What was the best moment for you?

A. The travellers’ reaction was a huge part of what made the first trip so special. Many had been dreaming of doing it for years, and to see them realise that dream really warmed my heart. One couple were celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary and were wearing matching hiking socks with “25 years together” written on them. During the trek, the chef made them a special cake decorated with the same wording as the socks. They were so touched, they started crying. That was a top moment for me.

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Q. What has changed on the trail compared with trips before the pandemic?

A. When the trail reopened last year [in July], the Peruvian government limited capacity to 50%, allowing for more spacing on the Inca Trail. This year, they’ve increased the capacity back to 100%, but there are new rules that ensure only certain numbers of people can stay in each campsite, which helps to spread people along the trail.

There are checkpoints where temperatures and oxygen levels are monitored; places where everyone must wear face masks; and new routes at Machu Picchu to ensure people move around safely. The government has also done maintenance along the route, repairing bridges and cleaning all the sites.

Q. Is there anything else travellers should know before embarking on the Inca Trail now?

A. Many people ask about how much training they should do. Of course, you need to be active and healthy, yet I once had an 88-year‑old traveller complete the trail with me. In terms of what to pack, I recommend lots of T-shirts, sunblock and sandals. There’s nothing better than kicking your boots off after a long day of hiking and putting sandals on at the campsite – your feet will thank you for it! Also, bring a rain jacket. Remember, the weather forecast doesn’t work in the mountains!

Chocho’s top tip

The experience on the Inca Trail, in my opinion, is better than ever now, with travellers spaced out in a much more effective way along the trail. In previous times, groups would be queueing to see some of the ruins; now, they have these to themselves.

PICTURES: G Adventures


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