UNDER a scorching early morning sun, I stepped on to the deck of my cruise boat and surveyed a scene seemingly unchanged since Egyptian history began 5,000 years ago.
Vivid green bands of palm trees and sugar cane stretched each side of the river Nile. The only buildings were a scattering of bleached wooden shacks, and here and there, small, gloomy donkeys laboured under infeasibly large loads, egged on by men in dove-grey robes. Beyond the fertile strip there was nothing to see but undulating sand.
The only sound was the whack of long sticks hitting water as fishermen in row boats tried to drive fish into their nets.
Then, looming into view on the horizon rose a golden-stoned monument of breath-taking magnificence.
Suddenly, there were people everywhere, following the dusty, well worn trails past colossal obelisks and statues.
We gathered in groups to gaze up at vast images of ancient kings and gods carved into the stone towering above us. We listened intently as the legends and legacies were explained, and the air buzzed with a dozen different tongues.
Around each site a large number of hawkers congregated. “English?” asked one, who was trying to sell me a cotton scarf I didn’t want. “No, Russian,” I lied in my best Muscovite accent, hoping to be rid of him. He delightedly proceeded to call my bluff by asking me my name in, I’m told, perfect Russian. Egypt is used to tourists of every nationality, they have been coming here for centuries – Romans and 19th-century archaeologists alike have left their graffiti.
A Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan, visiting all the major sites, is the tried and tested way to see upper Egypt, where life revolves around tourism.
Hundreds of boats sail the river, most tours taking in the temples at Philae, Karnak and Luxor; the Valley of the Kings; Hatshepsut’s magnificent mortuary temple; and Aswan’s Old and High dams.
Built centuries apart, I gave up trying to remember the chronology of it all, despite our guide Hesham’s patient explanations.
A felucca sailing boat ride one afternoon was a welcome chance to sit back and relax on the river, away from the bustling crowds and hustling hawkers. The ride was spoilt only by having my arm pinched by the master, who considered he deserved more of a tip than the one already given to him by our guide.
Baksheesh is a way of life in Egypt. On tours such as this, tipping can be included in the price, or a lump sum will be collected by your guide at the start to cover the whole trip.
Egypt is a male-dominant society, and we saw few local women.
We were asked not to wear revealing clothes in the temples, and our guides, endearingly protective of their heritage, forbade us from leaning on hieroglyphics, or using camera flashes in tombs.
As a woman on my own, I did attract attention. Western women have acquired an undesirable reputation here, but I didn’t find it hard to deter unwanted suitors by simply smiling and walking away.
Following the massacre of tourists by terrorists in 1997, Egypt is anxious to allay fears over security. Handbags were regularly searched and scanned, and there were tourist police much in evidence.
The Egyptians seemed extra keen to make their visitors comfortable. “Shoo!” shouted one hawker at a fleabag black dog chasing round our feet. “Don’t you know there are tourists about?”
Sightseeing started frighteningly early to avoid the fiercest mid-day sun, and by mid-morning we were back on the boat ready for lunch. The cuisine was very westernised, with pasta dishes and roast meats.
With enough culture tucked under our belts to be able to relax with a clear conscience for the whole afternoon, I stirred only for tea and cake at 5pm.
After the hustle of the tourist-packed temples, watching the peaceful landscape unfold as we played cards or waving to fellow tourists in passing cruise boats was bliss.
Cameraderie came easily, making a Nile cruise a good option for the single traveller.
Young children won’t find the cultural bombardment appealing though, and most of my group were over 40. Lone tourists were quickly adopted into the fold and it was great to have new friends to go shopping with.
Shopping was an integral part of the tour. We were herded en masse into selected stores to spend, spend, spend on papyrus, alabaster, jewellery and perfume – I couldn’t resist a bottle of Secrets of the Desert after what the salesman promised would happen if I wore it.
Naturally on the shy side, I found haggling a bit disconcerting, but oh the joy of getting my full-length galabeya, or robe, down from £15 to £12.
We needed galabeyas for the party every boat seems to throw, and the hawkers knew it. Indeed, evening entertainment is as well oiled a procedure as the rest of Egyptian tourism, and jolly fun.
Expect a traditional song and dance from the waiters, belly dancing, naturally, and a rather impressive twirling, skirted male dancer.
On galabeya night, we Brits teamed up to thrash the Germans at party games: turning our men-folk into mummies by wrapping them in toilet tissue.
nile cruising
Tour: Treasures of the Nile.
Duration: nine days.
Operator: Bales Worldwide. Tel: 01306 7327000.
Itinerary: three nights in Cairo, followed by four-night Nile cruise, and a final night in Cairo before return flight to Heathrow.
Sight-seeing: the Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza; the temples at Karnak and Luxor; Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens; Hatshepsut’s temple and Colossi of Memnon at Luxor; the temples of Edfu, Kom Ombo and Philae; the Unfinished Obelisk and High Dam in Aswan. An optional excursion to Abu Simbel can be arranged on request.
Boat: the Nile Beauty, which is fully air conditioned, has 52 twin-bedded cabins, each with fridge, private shower and toilet.
Facilities: plunge pool, sundeck, two bars, gift shop and hairdresser.
Price: from £699 per person, including return flights with EgyptAir from Heathrow, transfers, comprehensive sightseeing, all entrance fees, full board during the cruise and bed-and-breakfast accommodation in Cairo. Also included in the deal is a local group manager. The price is based on two sharing a room in Cairo and cabin on the boat.
Availability: departures dates still available for September, October and November.
Cabins are a good size with two twin beds, storage space and separate bathrooms. All cabins face outside and have a large window – depending on the boat, some have French doors and a balcony – and air conditioning. Remember clients do not spend a lot of time in their cabins as they are either sightseeing or on the deck.
You do not need to have any injections to enter Egypt. Just do not drink the water or eat the salads. Also, take a hat to avoid over-exposure to the sun while sightseeing.
During our winter months, although if you can stand the heat, which can reach 39C in the summer (June, July and August) are good times to visit as the sites are quieter.
International cuisine. Some cruises feature Egyptian evenings where local food is served.
A bank comes on board most evenings at around 6pm. But check with the guide before you sail.
No cabins are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis.