AMBLING along the promenade in Tel Aviv with its backdrop of cafe bars and sky scrapers, it is hard to remember you are in the heart of the Holy Land.
Tel Aviv fuses the architecture of London and New York, with traditional Jewish and Bauhaus-style buildings to offer a cosmopolitan city which boasts a vibrant club scene and 24hr attractions.
The Israelis love their night life and a wide selection of bars keep the party-goers happy until the clubs get going – usually well after midnight.
And while revellers recover from their round-the-clock activities on the beach the following morning, those interested in sampling a little more traditional culture can head off to the Carmel fruit and veg market.
This mid-eastern maze of stalls is ideal for anyone wanting to immerse themselves in a different culture.
Flea markets and bizarres also add colour to the souvenir hunting and confident shoppers in search of a bargain can try their hand at bartering.
Those wanting to escape from the bustle of the city can take a 30mins stroll along the promenade to Jaffa. This ancient settlement boasts the oldest operating port in the world and is the point from which Jonah left for his encounter with the whale.
The lively artist quarter offers a relaxing setting in which to enjoy a meal, or you can check out the Israeli equivalent to fast food – Bedouin fare, which is pitta bread with a soft goat’s cheese – which can be found on most street corners and is perfect for those looking for a filling, cheap snack.
Tel Aviv-Jaffa is just 15mins from the airport and an easy starting point for excursions all over the country with Jerusalem less than an 1hr away by road.
The contrast of cosmopolitan Tel Aviv with historic Jerusalem is immediately apparent, particularly if you start your sight-seeing trip, like most tourists, at the Western (Wailing) Wall.
The spectacle of numerous pilgrims who have travelled from all over the world to visit this place of great religious significance is a fascinating sight.
The Mount of Olives offers a good vantage point for photos of the old city, the garden of Gethsemane and the famous Jewish cemetery where Oscar Schindler is buried.
But don’t try hiking up there during the mid-day heat unless you have a lot of water or stamina. Buses and taxis make frequent journeys, or you could try to go the traditional way and hop on a camel.
In total contrast Hezekiah’s Tunnel, or the Silwan Tunnel, offers the chance to walk under Jerusalem by candlelight along a route designed to bring water to the city in the eighth century BC. The tunnel was built by King Hezekiah and can be found just outside the old city.
Jerusalem’s main drag, the pedestrianised Ben Yehuda Street boasts a good selection of bars and cafes and is extremely lively on Saturdays, but those seeking a little more tranquillity should check out the King David Hotel, one of the oldest hotels in Jerusalem offering great views of the city and an excellent cup of tea.
Do’s
n Visit at the time of the Hanoukah Festival of Light. Held in December, this Jewish festival is a time of present giving and holy areas are decked in candlelight and decorations.
n Take time to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulcre located in the heart of the old city. This Church is said to be the site of the Crucifixion.
n Make sure you pay a visit to the Western Wall, often known as the Wailing Wall, where Jews and pilgrims gather daily to pray. It is situated next to the Dome of the Rock, the site of Solomon’s temple and the Mosque of Omar where Muslims head five times a day for prayer.
Don’ts
n Visit at the time of Yom Kippur, the festival of the Day of Atonement. This High Holy Day is held in the autumn each year. Jews fast and spend the day synagogues therefore most things are shut.
n Wear a short skirt, visit a holy place with bare shoulders or visit the old city (the Arab quarter) in revealing western dress. This may draw unwelcome attention and prevent you from entering the mosques or the churches.
n Worry if you notice the police and army carrying guns. This is usual. Israel is very strict about military service and most famous sites have a strong military presence which can tend to be quite daunting.