From cool cities to appealing lakes, Ontario is the ideal introduction to Canada for first-time visitors
I gingerly step onto the narrow platform, suspended 365 metres above Toronto. Abject panic aside, the panoramic view of Canada’s biggest city on this sunny morning is as breathtaking as the challenge that lies ahead: I’m doing the world’s highest hands-free external walk, around the circumference of the roof of the CN Tower’s restaurant.
EdgeWalk is one of the most terrifying things I’ve ever done, but I take a deep breath and shuffle on with my companions. As soon as I start getting to grips with the lofty location, we’re informed of our first challenge.
“Come on, Rebecca, get those toes over Toronto!” Our guide Betty’s words of encouragement provide the motivation I need to inch closer to the edge. We then go a step further and hang forwards over it – but I’m not ashamed to admit that I duck out of the hanging backwards challenge.
Things to do in Toronto
Back on terra firma and on a dopamine high, our afternoon activities are much more chilled, visiting the city’s biggest-hitting landmarks. I’m excited to be in Toronto for the first time – and Ontario is easier than ever to access, now that Virgin Atlantic is relaunching flights to Canada from March 30 after a 10-year break.
We stroll around the artsy Distillery District’s pristine, protected Victorian buildings and independent stores, then quirky Kensington Market with its vintage outlets, kooky characters and the odd black squirrel or two.
Despite lingering jet lag, I enjoy a satisfying slumber that night at 1 Hotel Toronto, followed by a virtual Pilates session the following morning, made possible with the in-room yoga mat. Located close to the city’s entertainment and shopping districts, this luxury lifestyle hotel cultivates the best of sustainable design and architecture.
There’s greenery everywhere, with foliage including the native Armstrong maple and river birch. The hotel also uses reclaimed timber and driftwood gathered from the local area, while fallen trees are transformed into one-of-a-kind furnishings. It’s a true urban oasis.
Niagara Falls day trip from Toronto
The Ontario experience doesn’t stop there: those looking to sample the best of the province can take their pick from Toronto’s attractions, but also travel farther afield to spend some quality time in nature.
A must for first-timers is Niagara Falls, which is an easy day trip from Toronto, and its sheer power does not disappoint. For a truly immersive experience – albeit a wet one – Journey Behind the Falls takes clients below and behind Horseshoe Falls (Canadian Falls), down two 130-year-old tunnels and onto an observation platform. Fun fact: more than 168,000 cubic metres of water go over the crestline every minute – the roar is almost deafening.
Nature in Ontario
“I live in the city and need to touch nature at some point,” says the receptionist at 1 Hotel when I mention our next destination, Algonquin Provincial Park in south-central Ontario. The three-hour drive to Canada’s oldest provincial park passes row upon row of deciduous trees ablaze with fiery autumn colours, ranging in hue from chilli to turmeric, which seem to intensify the further north we travel. We all gasp when our driver Stephen mentions that the red leaves aren’t quite as vivid as last year. “You never know what you’re gonna get,” he says.
We arrive at all-inclusive resort Arowhon Pines as dusk descends and the sky turns blush pink. One of the original resort properties in Algonquin, dating back to the 1930s, the remote, secluded setting on Little Joe Lake is stunning, and you’re encouraged to unwind without TV, phone or internet distractions.
My home for two nights is Tanglewood, a log cabin with cosy en suite bedrooms, a central lounge, an outside deck and a log-burning fireplace, which we stoke up when the temperature dips after sunset.
I open the curtains in the morning to see an ethereal mist on the surface of the lake, and enjoy a wholesome breakfast in the resort’s circular dining room accompanied by a roaring fire and Hank, the resident golden retriever – there’s a real family vibe at Arowhon.
Around the property, there are plenty of walking, hiking and bike trails. There’s also a patchwork of lakes to explore: clients can take a leisurely cruise aboard a traditional steamship on Lake Muskoka – a celebrity holiday hangout 90 minutes’ drive from the resort – or set off on one of Arowhon’s own canoes to explore nearby lakes, incorporating plenty of swim stops.
We enjoy a guided trip in a large Voyageur canoe on Canoe Lake and, with stomachs rumbling, dock on a small rocky island to devour our hearty packed lunches (and steaming flasks of hot chocolate) amid the red pines and poplars – accompanied by an opportunist chipmunk who seems to enjoy our scraps.
That evening, after a fabulous final dinner, I reflect on my time in the province – a delightful deep dive into adventures on land, on the water and even sky high. It may have been my first time, but Ontario already has me yearning to return.
Book it: Canadian Affair sells a six-night stay, with three nights at 1 Hotel Toronto and three at Arowhon Pines Resort, from £2,951. Includes car hire, all meals at Arowhon Pines and flights departing October 4. canadianaffair.com
For more information, visit destinationontario.com/en-ca
Local view
Jason Rizzuti, general manager, GoTours Canada
“Explore Toronto’s neighbourhoods such as Cabbagetown, Koreatown, Greektown and Little India. Each has its own unique vibe, with restaurants and barsoffering fantastic food. Queen Street East is one of my favourite areas – there are many coffee shops, restaurants, shops and micro breweries, and just south there’s the beach.
A great way to get in extra steps is to explore some of the many parks and trails across the city, in particular Moccasin Trail Park, Edwards Gardens and the Leaside area. I recommend this for anyone wanting a break from city life.”
PICTURES: Brandon Barre Photography; Destination Ontario: Rebecca Barnes
