| Journal: TWUK | Section: |
| Title: | Issue Date: 04/09/00 |
| Author: | Page Number: 58 |
| Copyright: Other |
Fes by Sam Lewis
Stripping off to see what allthe Fes is about
Experiencing the hamman
WITH MARRAKESH splashed across every glossy magazine, holidaymakers looking for an ‘alternative’ short-break may turn their nose up at the ‘en vogue’ destination.However, Morocco does boast a number of other fascinating cities and Fes, one of the great centres of Islam, can really satisfy the desire to explore the unknown and less commercial.
I knew this was going to be an unusual break as soon as I entered the traditional hammam, a public bathing house where locals go to relax.
Wanting to experience the genuine article, I shunned the hotel’s hammam and entered one in the centre of the medina.
Despite language difficulties, I handed over the equivalent of £3 for what I thought would be an hour of exfoliation and massage.
Inside, I soon discovered that I had paid for an hour at the hands of a rather large old woman sporting only a couple of crooked, yellow-stained teeth and a very large pair of knickers.
As she didn’t speak English, she signalled for me to undress and follow her.
We crossed the slippery floor into a room with no windows, shafts of light protruding from a couple of glass tiles in the roof high above.
Paint was peeling off the walls and naked women sat or squatted on mats frantically scrubbing their skin in abrutal act of exfoliation, rinsing down with buckets of warm water.
Having already forsaken, my clothes, there was no question of making a dash back to the safety of the hotel spa, so I obeyed orders and sat on the floor while buckets of warm water were poured over my head and my hair was washed with vigour.
Just when I began to relax she signalled for me to lie down on the tiled floor and set to work with the loofah, scrubbing every inch of me, stopping to grin and show me the skin she had removed.
I had no time to lament the loss of my tan. Like a fish I was flipped over from front to back so she could descale each side. Then she proceeded to pummel me into shape like a piece of pastry. An hour later my skin was smooth – if a little paler – and Iwas ready to explore Fes.
There are three main areas to the city: Fes el Bali or Old Fes; Fes el Djedid or New Fes; and Ville Nouvelle, the new French-built quarter.
The first two contain the main highlights for tourists and are currently being restored by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO).
I started by getting a licensed guide from the tourist office. The medina in Fes el Bali has over 9,400 alleys – go it alone and you will most certainly get lost. The licensed guides lead you through the winding maze – often less than a metre wide and bustling with local merchants, laden donkeys, and women masked by veils.
Every alley is crammed with stalls and workshops with different districts specialising in ceramics, carpets, woodwork, embroidery, jewellery and spices.
Guides take you to their favoured stalls where they earn commission on what you buy, but be prepared to haggle over the cost of several cups of sweet mint tea.
If you want a laugh visit an apothecary where you can find cures for everything from hangovers to a low libido.
Also in the medina is the stunning Bou Inania Merdersa, a theological college built in the 14th century and the only religious building in the city open to non-Muslims.
Other spectacular buildings can be found nearby in the newer part of the city Fes el-Djedid, home to the city’s Jewish community. Don’t miss Dar el Makhzen, the Royal Palace, with its seven spectacular ornate doors.
While they make a good snapshot, you can’t pass through them, and if you did you’d be surprised at finding a nine-hole golf course.
After a hectic sightseeing tour, you may just want to lieby the pool and recover the next day.
However, you could escape the city and play a round of golf at a course nearby, or ride an Arab horse into the sunset at a stud farm in Meknes.
If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you could visit one of the 1,200 hammams in the city, but once was enough for me so I stayed by the pool.
Royal Palace: is a recommended visit to see its seven ornate doors
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what to see
The Karaouiyne University and Mosque is a religious and intellectual centre. Non-Muslims cannot enter but you can peer inside through one of 14 gates for a quick glimpse.
See Bab Bou Jeloud – the gateway to Fes. The tiles on the exterior are blue, the colour of Fes, while the green tiles on the inside signify Islam. Merdersa Bou Inania is a theological college built in 1350 where students learn the Koran and philosophy. This is the only religious building in the city open tonon-Muslims.
Visit the souks – Attarine has a huge number of stalls and workshops and specialises in spices; while Kissaria is known for its fabric and Nejjarine for wood. Tell your guide what you want to see or buy.
Maracas:be prepared to haggle in the market
Maracas:be prepared to haggle in the market
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Sample product: Cadogan prices start at £461 for three nights’ bed and breakfast with flights.
Food and drink: traditional Moroccan dishes include tangines, a simmered stew, with fish or meat that is flavoured with fruit and spices. It is often accompanied by cous cous. Expect to pay £10-£15 for a good meal and up to £30 in the more renowned restaurants such as those in the hotel Palais Jamai.