| Picture: Image Bank |
Quirky culture, affordability and varied terrain are just
some of the attractions tempting Brits back to the Serbian resort
of Kopaonik, in the former Yugoslavia.
Back in the early 1990s, before the Balkan conflict, the UK was
the most important market for Kopaonik. Visitors used to come in
droves, attracted by the accessible slopes and the relatively
inexpensive cost of living.
While the latter hasn’t really changed – it’s
still cheap as chips to spend a week here – the facilities
have improved dramatically, and Balkan and Thomson Ski have both
added the resort to their programmes for this winter.
New for this season is a four-seater chairlift which has greatly
increased the flow of skiers up the main hill, and shrunk the
queues that used to form in the centre of the resort at peak
times.
The resort has 22 lifts – most of them drags –
servicing a wide range of runs. There’s a good spread of reds
and blues, a smattering of blacks and even some enticing off-piste
action.
What’s more, the snow record in Kopaonik is more
impressive than a lot of mainstream European resorts. It gets snow
well into March and it’s not uncommon for people to still be
skiing in May.
Typically, when I was there in February the snow coverage was
not ideal. While there was plenty lying around, it was turning
slushier by the second thanks to a sudden rise in temperature.
After a few exploratory runs to get my bearings, I found my
snowboard sticking to the soupy, gloopy mess at the bottom of the
Karaman Greben run, so decided to do the sensible thing and head to
the bar.
The nearby four-star Hotel Grand is the best in town, with its
well-stocked gym, basketball court, climbing wall and spa. However,
there are four good hotels dotted around the resort, which cater to
a range of budgets. All of them are located within walking distance
of the slopes and the all-important nightlife.
Kopaonik’s après-ski scene is not as extensive as
that found in some of the more established European resorts, but
clients won’t struggle to find a lively night on the tiles.
Even though the resort is a fraction of the size, it has an
impressive range of bars and clubs.
After a huge dinner of local game and unusual salads at the
wonderfully traditional Suri restaurant, where stuffed animals hang
from the wooden rafters, I decided to work it off at the Kortina
Ski Club. Sweaty, smoky and sexy, it was packed with bright young
things getting down to banging ‘Euro house’ music. For
something slightly more relaxed, though, I ambled along to the more
understated Royal Bar, where you can at least sit down.
The next day dawned bright and sunny – Kopaonik gets
around 200 days of sunshine a year – providing the perfect
backdrop for exploring the area. I ventured to the Duboka Two run
(meaning ‘deep gulley’), which has a cute little bar
with a name that translates as ‘cheese hut’. Inside, a
roaring fire and cosy, wolfskin-covered seats made it difficult to
head back out into the cold. I’m glad I did, though. At the
top of the Karamen Greben lift I spotted a cheeky bit of off-piste
which, amazingly at 11am, was still utterly untracked.
Most of Kopaonik’s runs are aimed at beginners and
intermediates, but there is some steeper stuff dotted about that
will bring a smile to an expert skier’s face.
The resort’s ski school is run to International Ski
Instructors Association standard and operated by English-speaking
guides. Individual lessons cost less than £10 and ski hire is
similarly good value.
What you get in Kopaonik is a refreshing cultural experience
that suits mixed-ability groups who fancy a break from the norm.
The hotels cater well for families – and there’s even a
reliable crèche service for youngsters.
While it’s a bit premature to say Kopaonik is the new
Andorra, it certainly competes on the cost front. “Andorra is not
as cheap as it used to be,” said Balkan Holidays sales and
marketing manager Chris Rand. “Kopaonik is great value, both for
the cost of the holiday and once you arrive in resort.”
But it’s not just the cost that’s making Brits
consider Kopaonik again. “It’s less touristy than Andorra,”
said Thomson Ski head of product Stevan Popovich. “It’s also
more compact, without the clutter of villages Andorra has. And
because it’s in the middle of the Kopaonik National Park, the
surrounding countryside is beautifully unspoilt.”
