Destinations

Stateside: Philadelphia

Just 90 minutes by train from New York, Philadelphia might not get the same brochure space as its glamorous neighbour, but it would be a mistake to overlook it.


With an active UK marketing office and an increasing trade profile – Virgin is adding it to its main US brochure for 2006 – now’s a great time to book a break to Philly.


Founded in 1682 by an English Quaker, William Penn, this was the home of the founding fathers and the birthplace of the US, so it’s an obvious stopping-off point. But there’s so much more to it.


Use our guide to help your clients get the most out of the city. Check out the suggestions below, and recommend they do at least one thing from each of the following categories.


Art
On first sight, visitors may be familiar with the city’s main visual arts venue for an entirely unexpected reason. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is housed in a sprawling neoclassical complex, dominating the city’s Fairmount Park, at the top of Benjamin Franklin Parkway.


But it’s here that Sylvester Stallone bolted up the steps during his heroic training run in Rocky. If clients find that inspiring, wait until they see what’s inside…


Also along the Parkway is the Rodin Museum and the Academy of Fine Arts, but if modern art is more your clients’ thing, tell them to check out the ICA in the university complex on Sansom Street. Here, works by Andy Warhol and Robert Mapplethorpe are among the big draws.


The bigger picture: clients should take a walking tour of the city and check out the well-known public murals. Originating in the 1980s as an anti-graffiti measure, they’re everywhere – and they work. Not one scrawl defaces them.


Music
Live Aid 20 years ago and July’s Live 8 event – Philadelphia’s history of live music is as long as its influences are wide. In the 1960s the songwriting team of Gamble and Huff opened their studio here and, with soul standards such as the O’Jays’ Love Train, quickly established what became known as the ‘the sound of Philadelphia’.


Gamble and Huff’s studio is still in operation today – Sir Elton John recorded his song Philadelphia Freedom here – and it sits across the street from the new Kimmel Centre for the Performing Arts. This $265 million venue was purpose-built for the Philadelphia Orchestra, and is the showcase auditorium on Broad Street – also known as the Avenue of the Arts.


Buy the single: the Kimmel Centre is worth a look for its soaring glass-vaulted roof. Tickets for the orchestra can be bought at Kimmelcenter.org.


Buy the album: tell clients not to miss the Gospel Brunch at World Café Live! About $30 buys sustenance for body and soul: uplifting live gospel music and tasty omelettes.


Shopping
Tax-free shopping on all clothes and shoes should be compelling reason enough to shop here, but if clients need more, sheer choice alone should convince them.


Just outside the city is the King of Prussia mall – the largest retail centre in the US – with eight major department stores and scores of designer shops. Slightly further afield, Franklin Mills is an outlet mall offering discounts of up to 70% of retail prices.


If holidaymakers prefer town-centre shopping tell them to head for Walnut Street: classic American stores such as Urban Outfitters and Banana Republic jostle for space alongside the likes of Puma and Diesel.


Walnut Street leads to the diamond area, where a Hatton Gardens-style atmosphere prevails. Here, ladies browse longingly while men mill about, seemingly overwhelmed by the prospect of having to spend a fortune in one go.


Foodies can check out the open-air Italian Market on Ninth Street, which stocks everything from fresh herbs and books to speciality cookware.


Try on: diamonds on Jewellers Row – clients could find a bargain. Also tell them to pop into historic department store Lord and Taylor for a look at the largest working pipe organ in the state. It’s played every day.


Buy: shoes and clothes – tax-free shopping means big savings.


Eating
New York has cheesecake; Philly has cheesesteak. Calling it a delicacy may be pushing it, but this sandwich – thinly sliced steak, fried onions and melted cheese on an Italian roll – is certainly a local favourite.


How the cheesesteak is served is a matter of continued debate – should it be provolone or American cheese, or (God forbid) spray on Cheez Whiz? You can even go deluxe: at upmarket steakhouse Barclay Prime, $100 buys you a kobe beef version with vintage cheddar on a brioche, served with half a bottle of Veuve Clicquot to wash it down.


Barclay Prime is one of seven restaurants in the city owned by Steven Starr, who kick-started the Philadelphia restaurant renaissance. Plenty more have followed, especially around the trendy Rittenhouse Square area – clients should have an alfresco coffee here and enjoy a spot of people-watching.


Suck it and see: Bookbinder’s is the grandame of the scene. Recently refurbished, just about every celebrity to pass through the city has eaten here, from Frank Sinatra to Spike Lee. Seafood is a speciality.


To dine for: it’s got to be the cheesesteak. Encourage clients to join the locals’ debate and see if they prefer it at Pat’s King of Steaks or Geno’s Steaks – both are on Passyunk Avenue near Ninth Street.


The masterpiece: who could resist a run up those steps? Certainly not the 2,000 Philadelphians who donned grey sweatpants and blue hats for the Millennium Rocky Run at the turn of the century. The gallery is a much-loved local landmark, inside and out.


History
They’re not exaggerating when they call the old city ‘America’s most historic square mile’.


Not only was it home to the founding fathers, but it was here that Thomas Jefferson unveiled his Declaration of Independence. History buffs can find out all about it at the new Independence Visitor Centre, which opened in 2001.


Even if clients don’t want a museum tour, the old city is a fascinating place for a stroll. It’s got the greatest concentration of historic buildings in the US, including the oldest residential street, Elfreth’s Alley, occupied since 1713.


Next year is the 300th anniversary of famous Philadelphia resident Benjamin Franklin – scientist, diplomat, philanthropist and all-round renaissance man. A year-long series of events is planned.


Read up on: Independence Hall is where the American constitution was launched – it’s now part of a complex that also includes the Liberty Bell. Entry is through the Independence Visitor Centre on Market Street.


Never forget: from the city that gave birth to a nation, to the battle that almost destroyed it, Gettysburg, two and a half hours away, is a must see for anyone interested in US history. Gettysburg was the pivotal battle of the civil war, where 50,000 soldiers perished in three days of bloodshed.


 


 

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