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Getting back to nature with the village people


Thanks to its remote location, Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is a haven for wildlife, offering clients the chance to join walking safaris away from the established circuit.



The park is situated in the east of the country, a 30min drive from Mfuwe airport, where most visitors fly in.



The best time to visit is May -November, when visitors are likely to come across huge herds of elephants and buffalo, plus lion, elephant, giraffe, and the area’s speciality – leopard.



Birdwatchers will not be disappointed as incredible birdlife is guaranteed, especially in the wet season in April and May. Common sightings include the tawny eagle, fish eagle, sacred ibis and grey-hooded kingfisher.



Nsefu camp, set on the banks of the Luangwa river, is the region’s oldest camp – originally set up by conservationist Norman Carr during colonial times. It has six thatched rondavels – or huts – which have been designated National Heritage monuments.



But these are mud huts with a difference – the whole camp has been refurbished this year and the rondavels are stylishly furnished, with en-suite bathrooms partially open to the sky, mosquito-netted beds, and with stunning views.



“We wanted people to be able to lie in bed, enjoy the incredible view and listen to the hippos in the river below,” said South African owner Robin Pope.



Attention to detail is a characteristic of the Nsefu refurbishment.



Environmental impacts have been minimised – local woods and grasses have been used for building the rondavels and the comfortable lounge and bar area.



Aside from game viewing, clients who stay at the camp have the opportunity to sign up for a day trip to a local village 30mins drive from the national park.



Suffering from the prolonged downturn in the national economy, the villagers decided to establish a cultural tourism project earlier this year in order to raise some money to help cover vital educational and welfare projects.



Local company Robin Pope Safaris is acting as agent to the project, but takes only a minimal booking fee. Tour operator Sunvil Discovery brochures trips to the project, and donates its commission to it.



“It’s proving a popular add-on for our clients,” said Pope, “About 20% of our visitors choose to visit the village for a day and probably roughly half of those stay the night.”



Six traditional thatched huts with mattress and mosquito nets plus a toilet block have been built for overnight stays.



Sunvil Discovery managing director Chris McIntyre said: “Clients need to be willing to accept camping-style facilities, but the experience of sleeping in the village is well worth it. The villagers have put together an exciting package for tourists.”



In the day, tours are led by English-speaking villagers and visitors can choose from activities such as visiting the healer, blacksmith or taking part in cooking or farming.



Visitors get to join in with local traditions: you eat with the left hand; men and women sit separately for meals; and female visitors try on a chitenje, a locally-printed sarong.



Overnight visits to the Kawaza village should be booked in advance and cost £60 for overnight stay.


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