How do you make the most of Malta? Travel Weekly asked the 10 agents we sent to the island to cover Abta’s Travel Convention
Malta has a history, and Valletta, the “new” capital, whose foundations were laid in 566, is as full of history culture and fascination as anywhere on this densely populated island.
Named after Grand Master la Valette, it was planned as an impregnable fortress, evidence of which is everywhere, especially in the enormous city walls and the huge defence work at Fort St Elmo at the tip of the peninsula.
The street plan reminds me of New York’s Manhattan, laid out in a grid to make best use of space and making it easy to find your way around.
Established by the knights of St John, Valletta is full of opportunities for those with an interest in culture and history. There was a magnificent house or Auberge built for each of the Langues or nationalities represented in the order.
For me, St John’s co-Cathedral was a big, and enormously pleasant, surprise. The exterior is simple and uninspiring, not calculated to draw me in, quite frankly. Entering via the side door is equally uninspiring, but a stunning display of wealth and glory awaits inside.
Eight chapels, one for each Langue, reveal that the cathedral was built by and for the Knights of St John. Many of their Grand Masters are buried in sarcophagi in the crypt, as is one Englishman, the secretary to La Valette during the siege of Malta in 1565.
There is much gilding, paintwork and sculpture, evidence of the wealth and generosity of the knights who worshipped here. The decoration is ornate, and covers every inch of wall, ceiling and floor.
The floor was the most fascinating feature for me, covered in memorials which put English stone and brass to shame. The colours of the inlaid floor, marble of many types, and the stories they tell of Knights of old, in both word and picture, are truly awesome.
Described in detail in a book of the same name (£180 in the Cathedral book shop!), these “Memento Mori” are truly wonderful, striking me with awe at the skill of the craftsmen who made them, as much as the lives of those whose tales they tell.
If that’s not enough the Cathedral also has two paintings by the 16th Century master Caravaggio, who was commissioned to produce them by the Knights. The centrepiece of the small museum area of the Cathedral is his work entitled The Beheading of St John. Do not miss it; it is truly stunning and worth the entry fee on its own. Just stand and look and take in the detail – you will need some time!
As well as churches, Valletta has fascinating architecture galore, and museums, galleries theatres and events to keep visitors busy for many days.
I decided to walk the length of Valletta to visit the National War Museum. This was a worthwhile effort as the museum tells the big story of Malta in World War 2 and its receipt of the George Cross for the part it played in the defeat of Nazi Germany.
There is lots to see and learn here. The story is well told, and the many artefacts and pictures – plus the George Cross itself – bring the story of Malta’s defiance to life.
A horse and carriage back to the bus station gave my weary legs some welcome relief, even if my wallet suffered. Make sure you agree a price before you ride, and don’t accept the first price that’s offered!
I hope to return to Malta as there is much more to see and do than I could manage in my limited spare time – and not just in Valletta.
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