I have always wanted to see walrus: those long-toothed behemoths of the sea remain one of the enigmas of our planet.
On a remote island called Coats in Canada’s newest territory of Nunavut – one of the best places in the world to see them – I achieved my ambition.
It took me three days to get there from Britain, not because the flights are so inconvenient, but because the territory is so big. My journey involved one international flight, three internal ones and 11hrs in rough seas in a small fishing boat.
Nunavut was created on April 1 last year when Canada’s largest province, the Northwest Territory, was split in two giving the native Inuit people of the right to elect their own regional government.
Nunavut is 85% Inuit, and although the political changes have had little impact yet on tourism, the world is now more likely to know that the territory actually exists. Media coverage has given Nunavut a chance to showcase what it has to offer in terms of tourism.
As Nunavut tourism executive director Madeline Alexander-Redfern pointed out it is not a mass-market destination.
“Our communities aren’t accessible by road for a start. We are trying to develop an adventure tourism market with skiing, dog-sledging, snowmobiling and ice-fishing in the winter, and kayaking and hiking in the summer. Our existing infrastructure caters ideally for small groups, who want wilderness combined with wildlife.
“Tourism is in its infancy here and training tour personnel will take some time.”
Nunavut Tourism marketing director Maureen Bundgaard said:”Training is the key. Not only do we have a vigorous marketing plan for what we offer, but we’re actively improving our product and establishing training programmes for guides.
“What we don’t want is people arriving faster than our capacity to have trained people in place to look after them,” she added.
The main objective is educating people who have little concept of tourism, to provide a service based on their traditional skills to an ever demanding clientele who are used to sophisticated product.
Problems include the limited bedstock, much of it in dormitory-style accommodation – which is expensive. Getting around too, is tricky – with few roads, travel is almost exclusively by air, and a limited number of flights means fares are at a premium.
Food is also a sticking point. Vegetarians will struggle to find a good meal and vegans are not understood at all. ‘Country Food’: caribou, muskoxen, and salmon are all delicious, but, in most cases, there’s not much else to choose from.
Don’t be put off though. Windows on the Wild product manager Russell Conchie said he has seen an increase inpeople wanting to visit Canada’s north.
Pristine wilderness, unusual wildlife and off-the-wall activities are cited as the main reasons – just don’t expect five-star service and the usual creature comforts.