It’s best not to rush to appreciate Indochina’s most relaxed destination, says Meera Dattani
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The ‘PDR’ in ‘Laos PDR’ may officially mean the People’s Democratic Republic, but it’s affectionately interpreted as Please Don’t Rush. Life in Laos is certainly laidback – even the capital Vientiane feels unhurried.
This landlocked country, bordered by China, Burma, Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia, boasts lush valleys, mountains, paddy fields, miles of rivers and waterfalls. But it’s also culturally rich, proud of its hill tribes, cuisine and peaceful Buddhist way of life.
SELL: SMALL BUT SPECIAL
People often describe Laos as ‘special’, but why?
“Laos is still an unspoilt, less touristy and relatively undiscovered country with beautiful scenery, friendly people, great food and stunning sights,” says Shawn Hendricks, Indochina product manager at Indus Experiences. “It has a long and fascinating history of royalty, occupation and struggle for independence, inspiring wats and a mix of French-colonial and traditional architecture.”
The former royal riverside city of Luang Prabang is top of the list for many, with four and five-star properties, such as Apsara, Luang Say Residence, Hotel De La Paix and 3 Nagas, in abundance.
Soft-adventure tourism is also making its mark, with trekking, tubing, climbing and kayaking on offer. Over 70% of Laos is mountainous and forested with the less-developed north a magnet for intrepid travellers.Returning visitors to Asia often have Laos on their bucket list, but don’t discount it for first-timers, as it can be easily added to Thailand, Vietnam or Cambodia trips.
The optimum months to visit are between November and March, and there are three international airports – Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Pakse – with good connections to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Singapore and other cities.
Slow boats along the Mekong are an excellent way to travel; the journey from northern Thailand via Pakbeng to Luang Prabang is a real treat.
Laos is also a revelation for food lovers, its fresh spicy dishes not dissimilar to Thai or Vietnamese but with distinct flavours. The cuisine also bears hallmarks of French colonial rule with pate-filled crusty baguettes. An ice-cold Beerlao is the tipple of choice.
SEE: WAT A VARIETY
Luang Prabang: For first-timers, the highlight is often this French-colonial Unesco World Heritage Site town on the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Here are some of Laos’ most beautiful pagodas and wats such as Wat Xieng Thong, and a daily alms-giving ceremony.
A thriving arts and crafts scene, night markets, excellent restaurants, traditional Lao saunas and proximity to Khuang Si waterfalls and Pak Ou caves make Luang Prabang a real favourite.
Northern Laos: Home to many of Laos’ ethnic minority groups, the misty mountains and jungle valleys of the north are ideal for adventurers. Suggest Houeixay to see local hill tribes, while Phongsali, Luang Nam Tha and Udomxai offer options for independent trekking and the beautiful Nam Ou waterway.
Vientiane: While not as picturesque as Luang Prabang, the capital is an interesting town, with Laos’ most important wat, Pha That Luang, French-colonial architecture, Mekong riverfront markets, some good restaurants, even better bakeries and sunset bars. Excursions include the Buddha Park, home to more than 200 statues, and Phou Khao Kway national park.
North/Central Laos: The big draw here is Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars, mysterious stone jars, some up to 2.5 metres in height, scattered across the vast Xieng Khouang plateau. Riverside Vang Vieng is an excellent place for outdoor activities.
Central/southern Laos: The Bolaven Plateau, near Pakse, is home to coffee plantations, waterfalls and hill-tribe villages.
The south is also a hub for nature and adventure tourism while the ‘4,000 Islands’ of Si Phan Don and beaches of Don Khong, Don Dhet and Don Khon are prime places to spot the Irrawaddy dolphin. Other highlights include the Khmer ruin Wat Phu in Champasak and the waterfalls at Pha Pheng.
STAY: TIME TO TOUR
UK travellers most frequently twin Laos with other Indochinese destinations on trips that give a taste of the region, such as Travel Indochina’s 13-day Highlights of Indochina, which visits Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos (from £1,985 excluding international flights).
Western & Oriental’s 11-day Laos and Cambodia Explorer, which starts from £2,789 including flights, is a luxurious option, with stays in four and five-star properties.
For a more rustic experience, G Adventures’ 15-day Cambodia and Laos Mekong Adventure uses local transportation and authentic accommodation including homestays, and starts from £1,099 excluding flights.
It’s easy to add Laos to existing touring itineraries. Wendy Wu Tours has a number of independent bolt-on trips, including the five-day Laos In Focus, which visits Vientiane and Luang Prabang (from £490).
And while it’s often combined with other countries, Laos has more than enough to offer on its own. Introductory tours to Laos include Premier Holidays’ seven-night Spirit of Laos, which visits Luang Prabang, Pakse and
Vientiane, from £1,199, and the longer 11-night Classic Overland Laos, which adds Vang Vieng and Xieng Khouang, from £1,679. Both tours include internal flights, three-star hotels and sightseeing, but not international flights.
Longer trips include InsideVietnam’s 14-night Laos Overland: Along the Mekong, which follows the course of the river from Luang Prabang through Vang Vieng, Vientiane and down to the 4000 Islands. Starting from £1,595 (excluding flights), the slower pace of the trip means there’s time to head deep into the jungle to visit Kong Lor, one of the world’s largest caves, to search for the Irrawaddy dolphin and to explore the ruins at Wat Phu.
For younger clients on a budget, Geckos Adventures’ 12-day ‘Laos (Rhymes with WOW)’ tour costs £630 with accommodation and sleeper train travel.
Starting in Bangkok and crossing into Laos, it includes a slow boat down the Mekong, village visits, kayaking around Vang Vieng, and Vientiane.
Laos is known as the Land of a Million Elephants, and clients who book Travel Indochina’s three-day bolt-on that visits an Elephant Conservation Centre in Sayaboury outside Luang Prabang (from £355) will have the opportunity to feed, bath and walk elephants.
River cruising is a beautiful way to see Laos at its signature slow pace. Explore’s 17-day Spirit of Laos (from £2,307 including flights) features a slow-boat journey down the Nam Ou, a tributary of the Mekong, and TransIndus’s three-day Vat Phou Mekong Cruise aboard a luxuriously converted long-tail boat (from £345) cruises out of Pakse to the 4,000 Islands and back.
