OAXACA
How to get there: British Airways operates from London to Mexico City, where connections are made for the 1hr flight to Oaxaca.
Where to stay: the Camino Real Oaxaca is probably the most luxurious hotel in the city – a 16th-century converted convent with fountains, gardens and a pool. Others include the Monte Alban in the main square and the colonial-style Francia, where DH Lawrence spent some time in 1925. There are also plenty of relatively cheap hotels, many in flower-filled courtyards.
What to see: the government palace and cathedral in the main square. The elaborately decorated Santa Domingo, described by writer Aldous Huxley as “one of the most extravagantly gorgeous churches in the world”, is worth a visit, as is the Museo Regional de Oaxaca. Monte Alban is the main ancient site within easy reach of Oaxaca.
What to buy: Oaxaca is the best place in Mexico for arts and crafts. Brightly painted wooden crafts, leather goods and black pottery are sold in every market and many shops. The best day for market shopping is Saturday, and the shops around Santa Domingo church sell tasteful souvenirs and artwork.
Where to eat: there is a good selection of restaurants serving local and international cuisine, in particular French and Italian. Generally meals are inexpensive; even in the more upmarket restaurant, two people can have a three-course meal with wine for £20-£30. Del Vitral is one of the most extravagant diners with an impressive hall and chandeliers. Markets sell traditional Mexican dishes including tamales, tacos and mole, the spicy sauce made from chocolate and chilli.
The Pacific coast: while it may not have the white sand or turquoise sea of the Caribbean coast, the Pacific shoreline is very beautiful. It is much less developed and you practically have the beach to yourself. The resorts tend to be less American in style than those found on the Caribbean coast. They allow you to get a genuine feel for Mexican culture.