| Journal: TWUK | Section: |
| Title: | Issue Date: 04/09/00 |
| Author: | Page Number: 51 |
| Copyright: Other |
Destination review
Warm to island culture and grab yourself a natural high
Matt Bond samples the heights of island life – from scaling Nevis Peak to calypso at theCulturama Festival
WHEN Horatio Nelson was sent to the Caribbean to oversee the Treaty of Versailles he ended up marrying a Nevis girl, Fanny Nisbet, on March 11, 1787.Some 213 years later, as I boarded the small aircraft for the six-minute flight to the island from neighbouring St Kitts, I wondered what I would find there. Surely not the future Mrs Bond.
The first thing that struck me was the colourfulness of the destination.
Barbados cherry trees dot the landscape; ripe, juicy mangoes lie on the ground and palms sway on the edge of golden beaches. But it is not just the flora that catches the eye; the people themselves are colourful too.
My trip coincided with the annual Culturama Festival on the island, a celebration of the people’s emancipation from slavery, which includes colourful parades, calypso singing competitions, local music and a fantastic horserace meeting. Visiting at this time of year provides an ideal chance to witness the ‘real’ Nevis; the locals were friendly and pleased to see tourists taking an interest. With this in mind I could hardly refuse when I was invited on stage to “shake my booty”.
The festival is also a good time to sample some local delicacies such as goat’s water, a broth made with goat meat, or grilled fish heads.
I didn’t fancy either and opted to eat at the plantation inns or local restaurants, which served fantastic seafood, fresh vegetables and fruit.
My base for the six-day stay was The Hermitage, an 18th century sugar plantation inn and home to the Caribbean’s oldest wooden house, which was built in 1740.
Restored in classic colonial style the property sits on several acres of land, fringed by brilliantly coloured tropical flowers and fruit trees.
My accommodation consisted of a beautifully restored cottage, complete with antique four-poster bed, kitchen facilities and large veranda.
The island can be driven around in about an hour, but with 36 square miles of rainforest and white sandy beaches, washed by the turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other, who wants to just drive around?
One must-see is the Botanical Gardens, filled with tropical plants, fruits and cacti from around the world and with a lovely colonial tea-room in the centre.
For the more adventurous the 3,300 Nevis Peak beckons. I decided to embark on a mission to the summit myself after persuading Devon from the local tourist office to guide me.
It was only after getting lost for the third time and discovering at a particularly perilous point half way up that Devon was scared of heights that I realised what an ordeal this was to be.
However, four hours later we eventually made it down safely and although we were cut, bruised and covered in mud I would highly recommend the climb.
Back at The Hermitage, I enjoyed a pina colada on the veranda, cooled by the Caribbean trade winds and soothed by the sounds of crickets and tiny tree frogs.
I thought about Columbus’ and Nelson’s visits to the island and how life here had hardly changed since.
WHEN Horatio Nelson was sent to the Caribbean to oversee the Treaty of Versailles he ended up marrying a Nevis girl, Fanny Nisbet, on March 11, 1787.
Some 213 years later, as I boarded the small aircraft for the six-minute flight to the island from neighbouring St Kitts, I wondered what I would find there. Surely not the future Mrs Bond.
The first thing that struck me was the colourfulness of the destination.
Barbados cherry trees dot the landscape; ripe, juicy mangoes lie on the ground and palms sway on the edge of golden beaches. But it is not just the flora that catches the eye; the people themselves are colourful too.
My trip coincided with the annual Culturama Festival on the island, a celebration of the people’s emancipation from slavery, which includes colourful parades, calypso singing competitions, local music and a fantastic horserace meeting. Visiting at this time of year provides an ideal chance to witness the ‘real’ Nevis; the locals were friendly and pleased to see tourists taking an interest. With this in mind I could hardly refuse when I was invited on stage to “shake my booty”.
The festival is also a good time to sample some local delicacies such as goat’s water, a broth made with goat meat, or grilled fish heads.
I didn’t fancy either and opted to eat at the plantation inns or local restaurants, which served fantastic seafood, fresh vegetables and fruit.
My base for the six-day stay was The Hermitage, an 18th century sugar plantation inn and home to the Caribbean’s oldest wooden house, which was built in 1740.
Restored in classic colonial style the property sits on several acres of land, fringed by brilliantly coloured tropical flowers and fruit trees.
My accommodation consisted of a beautifully restored cottage, complete with antique four-poster bed, kitchen facilities and large veranda.
The island can be driven around in about an hour, but with 36 square miles of rainforest and white sandy beaches, washed by the turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other, who wants to just drive around?
One must-see is the Botanical Gardens, filled with tropical plants, fruits and cacti from around the world and with a lovely colonial tea-room in the centre.
For the more adventurous the 3,300 Nevis Peak beckons. I decided to embark on a mission to the summit myself after persuading Devon from the local tourist office to guide me.
It was only after getting lost for the third time and discovering at a particularly perilous point half way up that Devon was scared of heights that I realised what an ordeal this was to be.
However, four hours later we eventually made it down safely and although we were cut, bruised and covered in mud I would highly recommend the climb.
Back at The Hermitage, I enjoyed a pina colada on the veranda, cooled by the Caribbean trade winds and soothed by the sounds of crickets and tiny tree frogs.
I thought about Columbus’ and Nelson’s visits to the island and how life here had hardly changed since.
product
Caribtours: offers the Montpelier Plantation Inn which has panoramic views of the coast from its position on the foothills of Nevis Peak. The lead in price of £1,175 per person for seven nights, based on two adults sharing a premier room on a bed and breakfast basis, includes flights, private transfers and two-day car hire. Travel is for October and November. Flights are with British Airways or Virgin to Antigua and then on to Nevis with Caribbean airline Liat. The Montpelier has its own restaurant, cocktail lounge, pool, tennis court and private beach club.
Abercrombie and Kent:features the Nisbet Plantation, located on the north coast within acres of gardens and fronting a long stretch of beach. The plantation has a pool and beach-side bar and holds a barbecue each week with traditional Caribbean food and music. Seven nights half board leads in at £1,520 per person in a superior room, with British Airways flights from Gatwick to Antigua and onward connections by scheduled charter.
The Oualie Beach Hotel: based on the north coast, Oualie Beach has great views towards St Kitts and is regarded as the island’s centre for diving and watersports. It is featured by Hayes and Jarvis, which offers seven nights on a room-only basis, leading in at £719 per person. The price includes JMC flights from Gatwick to St Kitts with an onward connection on the eight-seater Nevis Express and taxi transfers.
The hotel is well suited for couples and families who want an informal low-key holiday.
sample
Nevis: hopes government investment will bring more tourists to the island
Botanical Gardens: a must-see for visitors to the island