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City of colours inspires return to old tradition


the Zapotecs chose this point for their city – you can see for miles across the valleys of Oaxaca.



You can also take a bus to one of the surrounding villages on a market day when the streets are bustling with buyers and sellers and where stalls are free of tourist souvenirs.



If you’re feeling strong, try a shot of mescal. Like tequila, it is made from the maguey cactus and is drunk in the same way – with a lick of salt and lime.



The only real difference is the worm in the bottom of the mescal bottle – the worm comes from the maguey cactus and proves the mescal is real and more lethal than tequila.



From Oaxaca, it is a 9hr bus journey to the Pacific coast and the vehicle winds through the mountains. For those with a weak stomach or limited time, it makes more sense to fly to Puerto Escondido.



This resort is developing fast but it has a long way to go before it reaches the scale of Cancun or Acapulco and still has a small-town feel to it.



Further down the Pacific coast, Huatulco has also been earmarked for development by the Mexican government and is rapidly being turned into a purpose-built resort.



I chose to stay at Puerto Angel, a small undeveloped fishing village situated between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, where days were spent lazing on the beach and feasting on fresh fruit and seafood.



In the mornings fishermen returned with their boats loaded with catches. It was interesting to see what they had brought in as it would always appear on the evening menus.



COLOURFUL is probably the best word to describe Oaxaca.



The city’s low, colonial buildings are painted vibrant hues of pistachio green, sunflower yellow and purple. The markets are full of coloured handicrafts, and the main square is an almost permanent venue for lively fiestas.



Most colourful of all are the people. Every day Indian women dressed in traditional costumes of intricately embroidered blouses and striped skirts travel into the city centre from the villages to sell souvenirs and traditional Mexican fare.



Although it has retained many indigenous traditions, Oaxaca is also one of the most cosmopolitan Mexican cities, boasting an array of art galleries, silver jewellery and leather goods, and restaurants serving international cuisine.



The main square is lined with bars and cafes – an excellent place to sit and soak up the atmosphere.



There are also some interesting sites worth seeing, including Monte Alban, an archaeological ruin six miles outside the city. Built by the Zapotecs around 1,700 years ago, Monte Alban is the first concrete evidence of settled civilisation in the Oaxaca valley. Standing on top of one of the two main temples, you can understand why the Zapotecs chose this point for their city – you can see for miles across the valleys of Oaxaca.



You can also take a bus to one of the surrounding villages on a market day when the streets are bustling with buyers and sellers and where stalls are free of tourist souvenirs.



If you’re feeling strong, try a shot of mescal. Like tequila, it is made from the maguey cactus and is drunk in the same way – with a lick of salt and lime.



The only real difference is the worm in the bottom of the mescal bottle – the worm comes from the maguey cactus and proves the mescal is real and more lethal than tequila.



From Oaxaca, it is a 9hr bus journey to the Pacific coast and the vehicle winds through the mountains. For those with a weak stomach or limited time, it makes more sense to fly to Puerto Escondido.



This resort is developing fast but it has a long way to go before it reaches the scale of Cancun or Acapulco and still has a small-town feel to it.



Further down the Pacific coast, Huatulco has also been earmarked for development by the Mexican government and is rapidly being turned into a purpose-built resort.



I chose to stay at Puerto Angel, a small undeveloped fishing village situated between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, where days were spent lazing on the beach and feasting on fresh fruit and seafood.



In the mornings fishermen returned with their boats loaded with catches. It was interesting to see what they had brought in as it would always appear on the evening menus.


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