NOT always the first choice of day trippers from the UK, Boulogne offers a far more authentic taste of France than its neighbouring port.
One of the reasons that the town, the biggest fishing port in France, trails behind Calais is that there are fewer ferry links. Hoverspeed alone serves the port direct, using a SeaCat from Folkestone, although it is just 30mins by car from Calais.
Another factor is that on leaving the port, drivers are not confronted by numerous signs directing them to wine warehouses.
This is more a town for wine connoisseurs, who want to enjoy the experience of buying from traditional French wine shops. It is helpful to know where to shop and being able to speak French is useful.
There are a couple of exceptions – English is spoken at Hoverspeed’s wine outlet, The Grape Shop, which is in the harbour area and stocks a wide selection of wine from all over the world, and there is a good supermarket a short drive out of town.
Boulogne is on a steep hill that climbs up from the port. The main shopping area is in the newer, lower, part of town; at the top, thick stone ramparts dating from the 13th century enclose the cobbled streets of the old town, or Vieille Ville.
This part of town is picture-postcard Boulogne and it can get busy.
At the centre is the Notre Dame Cathedral, which houses an altar made in the Vatican and brought to Boulogne in 1865.
The Town Hall is also in Vieille Ville, alongside a range of specialist shops selling wine and cheese.
However, the main reason that people visit this part of town is to stroll and eat. Restaurants line up side by side and offer something for every taste.
Away from the shopping, the biggest attraction in Boulogne is Nausicaa, the seaworld centre.
This was extended last year and there is much to see here, making it worth a visit of at least 3hrs.
For those who want to stay longer in France, Boulogne is a good jumping-off point for trips to St Omer – Chateau Tilques is popular among the British – or the cathedral city of Arras, where visitors can tour the underground passages used by soldiers in the First World War.
The fashionable seaside resort of Le Touquet is close by and Boulogne is also on the A16, which leads to Paris.
boulogne
Getting there: Hoverspeed: up to four sailings a day from Folkestone. Vessel: SeaCat Great Britain. Crossing time: 55mins. Sample fare: day trip £35 (£10 supplement on Saturdays) for car and nine passengers until June 30. Upgrade to 1st, £7.50 per person.
Shopping: it helps to know where you are going if you want to buy wine in Boulogne. Try Au Chais (43 Rue des Deux-Ponts), A la Cave du Vigneron (8 Boulevard Clocheville) and Aux Vins de France, which has three shops (26 Rue de Brequerecque, 11 Rue Nationale and 4 Rue de Lille). Hoverspeed’s Grape Shop is close to the ferry terminal and offers free wine tasting.
The main supermarket is Auchan, in a commercial centre with many other shops about 10mins drive out of town. It has a good selection of wine and beer.
For traditional French cheese, try La Cave du Fromager (23 Rue de Lille) in Vieille Ville, or Philippe Olivier (43 Rue Thiers). French chocolate is on sale just up the road at Chocolaterie de Beussent (56 Rue Thiers).
The main shopping area is in the lower town around the Rue Thiers. There is a market at Place Dalton on Wednesday and Saturday mornings selling cheeses, patés, bread, honey and other locally grown products.
Most French shops are shut on Sundays.
Restaurants: there is a huge choice of places to eat in Boulogne. Most serve French cuisine, but the international selection includes Australian, Vietnamese and Italian. The following gives a rough indication of price.
Family: La Mamma, 14 Place Godefroy de Bouillon. Set menus from £6-£10. A la carte selection including salads, omelettes, pizzas.
Romantic: La Chamade, 20 Rue de Lille. In the old town. Three-course menus from £12, four courses £18.50. Also try La Matelot, 80 Boulevard Sainte Beuve. Mainly fish, but some meat dishes. Menus up to £37.
Speciality: Les Pecheurs D’Etaples, 31 Grande Rue. Diners walk through the fishmongers to the restaurant. Choice includes 12 oysters for £8, including glass of wine, and lobster at £25 for 250g.
Attractions: Nausicaa, Boulevard Sainte Beuve: seaworld centre where visitors can see sea lions and sharks and visit the Blue Lagoon Village. Adults £6.50, children aged 3-12 £4.50.
The Castle Museum, Rue de Bernet: four floors of exhibits including the Egyptian Collection, Eskimo masks, Grecian and Italian ceramics and local archaeology. Adults £2, children aged 12-18 £1.30, under 12s free.
Bagatelle Theme Park, 62155 Merlimont (on the D940 just outside Le Touquet): attractions include a roller coaster, big wheel, train rides and zoo. Adults £10, children £8.