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The land where time stands still


I First ventured into the Hawaiian islands 25 years ago and immediately fell in love with them.



It was in the mid-70s, when the TV crime series Hawaii Five-O was popular in the UK and provided many Britons with their first impressions of the destination.



This was largely centred on Honolulu and Waikiki Beach on Oahu – the famous strip of high-rise seafront hotels and apartments built in the ’40s and ’50s. Although it was largely favoured by middle-class Americans and Japanese tourists, it was much more vibrant and cosmopolitan than I expected.



But the neighbouring islands of Maui and Kauai were worlds apart – spectacularly beautiful, unspoilt, lush and green.



Very little has really changed since then and the contrasts between the islands are still evident today, although there are now some amazing luxury resorts in the outer islands.



Honolulu still has an air of magic about it, but that is not what Hawaii is all about.



The islands are the most northerly of the Polynesian nations and geographically are very similar to the high islands of their cousins in the South Pacific.



Scenically, everything is clear and bright because there is virtually no pollution. This gives an in-built three-dimensional view of the landscape and stunning depth to the varying exotic, tropical colours of the islands.



This perspective is enhanced by the crystal-clear waters and palm-fringed beaches which give Hawaii its paradise feel, but it has much more: huge canyons more associated with the American west, lush rainforest, and eerie volcanic landscapes for a start.



At around 10,000ft at its highest point, Waimea Canyon on Kauai is like a red-earth oasis set in lush green vegetation.



It is an incredible excursion away from the white sparkling beaches, and you can hike, drive up it or take a spectacular journey across its diameter in a helicopter.



It’s difficult to choose a favourite place in Hawaii because every island is so different: each one wraps itself around you and you feel very comfortable.



If I was forced to choose just one though, it would be Maui. Aside from enjoying its laid-back lifestyle, I am fascinated by the humpback whales, which can be viewed up close as they come down from Alaska to breed in the warmer Hawaiian waters from the end of November to mid-April.



You can see them throughout the chain of islands but the biggest concentration is in the channel between Molokai, Lanai and Maui, with the best viewing point at Kaanapali on the northwest tip of Maui.



I’ve been whale-watching all over the world for about 20 years – in places like New England, Novia Scotia, the Caribbean, New Zealand and Alaska – but seeing them in a wonderful setting such as Hawaii makes the experience really special.



One of the highlights on my last trip to Maui in March of last year was when we took a cruise operated by the Pacific Whale Foundation, a charitable organisation that studies the humpback.



We were treated to a thrilling ‘whale run’ which included lots of antics by these magnificent mammals, including a simultaneous ‘breach’, where two leap out of the water together.



Even the scientists on board, who were leading the commentaries, said they had not seen anything like this before.



It is this kind of experience that makes you feel quite humble afterwards. If you manage to get to Maui, spend some time in Lahaina, the old whaling capital of the 1800s. It has a natural harbour, lots of great restaurants and fascinating historical sites.



Hawaii



Transpacific Holidays: typical 14-night tailor-made itinerary with three nights each on Oahu, Kauai, Maui and the Big Island of Hawaii and two nights in San Francisco, including flights on United Airlines from London, moderate/three-star-plus hotel accommodation, inter-island flights and Alamo car rental including CDW. Price £1,688 for travel in May.



selling tipsfor hawaii



n Because it’s part of the US, Hawaii’s development has been dramatic both for tourism and commerce, so make sure you select the right islands for your clients.



n Oahu is the main island and is where Honolulu and Pearl Harbour are located. It also has all the major commercial development and high-rise hotels and apartments, most of which are along Waikiki Beach. A three or four-day stay here is sufficient.



n Maui is much less developed and prettier than Oahu.



n Kauai is even less developed than Maui and is much greener than the other islands and scenically more dramatic.



n The island of Hawaii, known by the locals as the Big Island, is the least developed of the main islands and features the widest range of scenery to be found in the Pacific, from snow-capped mountains, an active volcano, dramatic volcanic lava landscape that dates back millions of years, to one of the largest cattle ranches to be found in the US.



n Lanai and Molokai have very little tourist development and limited accommodation, but are well worth a visit.


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