| Journal: TWUK | Section: |
| Title: | Issue Date: 07/08/00 |
| Author: | Page Number: 39 |
| Copyright: Other |
Argentina
Love is in the air as IguassuFalls start to work their charm
Rachael Oakden travels an awful long way to see the Iguassu Falls but finds it was worth every mile.
OVER 7,500 miles and 16hrs on a bus from Buenos Aires was quite a detour. But the Iguassu Falls, which are 20 metres higher than Niagara and one-and-half times as wide, were worth it.In the northeast of Argentina, on the border with Brazil, the Iguassu river plunges over the 60-metre high precipice of a horseshoe-shaped canyon. As it tumbles over the wide cliff face in 275 separate falls, it creates a permanent curtain of mist in which the sun creates vivid rainbows.
Most of the falls lie in Argentina, though there are national parks on both sides. Although the best panoramic views are in Brazil, the Argentine park lets you get close to the most spectacular falls.
After a day of staring at waterfalls, I spent my second day exploring the Isla San Martin, a lush, rainforested island in the middle of the river that provided the setting for the film The Mission.
A creaky little ferry at the bottom of the falls chugs to and from the island all day long but few visitors seem to use it, making it a quiet haven.
There are six nature trails and diligent wildlife spotters have been known to see parakeets, swifts, parrots, kingfishers and kingbirds.
After two hours of straining to focus on the treetops, the sight of a lone toucan hopping around on a branch made my day. Their cries, and the rumbling waterfalls, created a spookily exotic atmosphere but things became creepier as I reached a clearing that looked up to an outcrop of red, window-shaped rocks. Perched on and circling above them were huge, black vultures.
Back on the mainland, I waited my turn for the Aventura Nàutica, a boat trip to the foot of the falls. It lasted 10 minutes and involved much soaking and screaming with excitement from the sweltering heat and humidity. But the real kicks at Iguassu come from looking at the falls, not showering in them.
Unless, that is, you happen to be a teenage lovebird. Some of them looked so carried away I wondered if they would fall off the rickety wooden walkways and float downstream to blissful oblivion. What is it about famous falls and young love? It must be something in the water.
Iguassu Falls: plunges over the cliff face in 275 separate falls, creating a curtain of mist and rainbows
factfile
four things to do in northern argentina
Visit Buenos Aires: see Eva Peron’s grave at the Recoleta cemetery; hang out at the trendy bars on the Puerto Madero canalsidedevelopment; do the tango in San Telmo and admire the beautiful painted houses at La Boca.
Take the Tren a las Nubes ( Train to the Clouds): one of the world’s great railway journeys, the train climbs 356 miles from the city of Salta in northwest Argentina over the Andes to the Chilean frontier at Socompa, via San Antonio.
Cycle the Quebrada de Cafayate: this 41-mile gorge cuts through a spectacular desert landscape. Stay at the wine-growing village ofCafayate then hire bikes and take a bus to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat).
Stay at an estancia: many rural properties (estancias), such ascattle ranches, plantations, villas and country houses, are open tovisitors for overnight stays. Popular activities include horseriding,canoeing, fishing and walking.