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Routing out the real spirit of Missouri


MISSOURI is not only a great state for exploring the Midwest but it is also at the heart of the US pioneering age, has strong music culture and traditions, and is linked to another of my favourite places – Chicago – along fabled Route 66.



I have travelled to the capital, St Louis, many times on business but it is an amazing city when you have the time to go exploring.



The music and entertainment district is full of little bars, cafes and restaurants supplying you with impromptu performances of blues, jazz and ragtime as part of the menu, not to mention the blues clubs themselves, which have terrific atmosphere.



There are many neighbourhoods to visit, including Blueberry Hill, which has some excellent restaurants. St Louis is also the home of Budweiser, together with many little interesting micro-breweries, which make for an interesting little pub tour.



But on my many journeys between St Louis Airport and the downtown area, I had been missing out on another gem – until I discovered it fairly recently. Just 10mins from the airport is the charming little town – I’d call it a village – of St Charles, the oldest settlement on the Missouri River, which was founded in 1769.



I’d describe it as a cross between Stratford-upon-Avon and Warwick, with its quaint cobblestone streets lined with guesthouses, eateries and tea shops. Amazingly, it doesn’t suffer from nearby aircraft noise.



I wandered down there one balmy May evening and listened by candlelight to a local historian who, as one might expect, was also a bit of an actor, talking about the history of the Midwest.



It was from St Charles that explorers Lewis and Clark began their expedition out West along the Missouri River, and our host really took us back to that period.



Worth visiting at St Charles is Missouri’s first capitol building and the Great Rivers Museum.



I was also intrigued to discover why the town of Branson is described as the music capital of North America and dominated by such performers as the Osmonds and Andy Williams, who have their own shows and theatres.



I didn’t think it would be my cup of tea but having spent an evening there, nipping in and out of some of the 40 different shows and meeting some of the stars, I have to admit I really enjoyed the evening. The music is excellent and the performances are very professionally done.



The Legends show, featuring impersonators of famous acts, is well worth seeing. There was a superb Elvis act that was moving on to Las Vegas for six months, proving the quality of the shows at Branson.



For a bit of hard-earned recreation, I like to head for the Lake of the Ozarks, where you can stay in a log cabin amid pine forests and take in some soft adventure, such as horse-riding, fishing, biking and sailing.



The area is very beautiful and the climate in late spring/early summer is superb.



Best of all, you can get great steaks delivered to your door for cooking on your own barbecue – which certainly adds to the great outdoors feel of the place.



It’s great for the kids too, especially with the Silver Dollar City theme park, resembling a 19th-century Ozark mountain village, just 10mins’ drive or so away.



It’s not Disney but it has some good white-knuckle rides and educational stuff, as well as lots of arts and crafts and local renditions of typical Ozark folk music.



The park is not expensive, offers good food and provides a nice day out for the family.



The St Louis Gateway Arch: provides spectacular views



missouri tips



St Louis: aside from the blues, check out the Black History Wax Museum, which gives an insight into the slave period, the Italian district known as The Hill for some incredible food, and take a ride up the St Louis Gateway Arch for abreathtaking view of the city. It is the USs tallest national monument at 630ft and visitors can take in various exhibits on their journey to the top, which outline the city’s history and development.



Kansas City: great for jazz. Visit the restored 18th and Vine district to visit some of the places where jazz greats such as Charlie Parker and Count Basie once played. Sports fans should check out the nearby Negro Leagues Baseball Museum.



Independence: the starting point of the Santa Fe, Oregon and California trails. The National Frontier Trails Centre is a must. At Cape Girardeau is the Trail of Tears State Park and visitor centre where you can learn about the tragic journey of 16,000 Cherokee Indians.



St Joseph:the Pony Express Museum unveils the history of the legendary postal service that started here and ended in San Francisco.



The Lake of the Ozarks: offers all kinds of water-themed activities. North at Kirksville, you can camp in Thousand Hills State Park and go trekking in Big Creek and Sugar Creek conservation areas. Canoeing is also popular at Jacks Fork and Current Rivers in the Ozarks – the country’s first national scenic riverways.



Getting there: TWA operates a daily non-stop service to St Louis from Gatwick.



Sample product:Getaway Vacations features a 10-day Expanding Frontiers self-drive tour from £476 per person twinshare. It includes accommodation, entry to Gateway Arch, shows at Branson, Silver Dollar City and a dinner show. Flights and car hire are extra. The itinerary includes Kansas City, St Joseph, Branson, St Louis and St Charles. Getaway also offers a tour package called Missouri’s Music Corridor, which also takes in Memphis, from £414.


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