| Picture: Stone |
FROM a distance, Kuala Lumpur looks like your archetypal
modern Southeast Asian city – all gleaming skyscrapers and
jammed highways. Scratch the surface and you’ll find much
more than you’d expect from its modern exterior. Kuala
Lumpur’s history is rich in intrigue, and its populace a
unique blend of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Eurasian
cultures.
From grand colonial architecture, to labyrinthine alleys hiding
markets and temples, as well as the shopping malls of the Golden
Triangle, Kuala Lumpur packs a lot in. While the Malaysian capital
is no pedestrian’s paradise, main attractions are very
accessible. And where footpaths disappear – a common
occurrence – it’s easy to jump on the Light Railway
Transit or hail a cab for a few ringitt.
A pole apart
08:30: most of Kuala Lumpur’s mid to
high-end hotels are situated in the modern Golden Triangle. Skip
the hotel breakfast and head for one of the trendy coffee houses
along Jalan Bukit Bintang, also home to Kuala Lumpur’s
shopping malls. Avoid the temptation for now and head by taxi or
bus to Merdeka Square, Kuala Lumpur’s colonial heart. The
huge Malaysian flag atop a 95-metre pole – reputedly the
world’s tallest – is the place to jump off the bus.
Most city tours visit Merdeka Square.
Early days
09:30: the fabulously colonial Royal Selangor Club
sits on one side of Merdeka Square, while to the east is the Sultan
Abdul Samad Building, a blend of Victorian and Moorish architecture
housing the Supreme Court. A brief walk takes you to the confluence
of the Kuala lumpurang and Gombak Rivers and the ornately domed
Masjid Jamek, or Friday Mosque. This is the birthplace of the city,
and where the first Europeans scrambled ashore.
Top of the world
10:00: the Petronas Towers, the world’s
tallest buildings, are a Kuala Lumpur highlight and best reached by
the LRT. The identical and beautifully sculpted 451-metre towers
are connected at 58 metres by a skybridge, which doubles as a
viewing platform. Once the supersonic lifts deliver you back to
earth, it’s hard to resist the designer stores at the base.
The Suria KLCC Shopping Centre is worth a visit too – if only
for people-watching and the indoor canal.
Use your noodle
12.00: take the LRT ride back to the colourful,
crumbling streets of Chinatown. The hawker stalls are great for a
lunch of duck rice and fish-ball noodles. Chinatown’s Jalan
Petaling is pedestrianised and perfect for soaking up the
atmosphere. The Central Market on Jalan Hang Kasturi has a good
selection of local handicrafts – or you could check out the
fortune tellers. To the north is Little India, awash with music and
the smell of cooking spices.
Fruits of the forest
14:30: after the bustle, a taxi or bus to the Lake
Gardens in the southwest will refresh both mind and body. The
gardens surround a large lake where you can hire boats at weekends.
A stroll among the imposing rainforest trees and brilliant blooms
is an experience. A visit to the orchid garden is a must, along
with the enormous walk-in aviary.
Hit the plastic
17:30: on route back to the hotel, dip into some
shopping malls. On Jalan Bukit Bintang, pick up electrical goods in
Bukit Bintang Plaza; clothes and shoes in Lot 10; designer gear at
the Star Hill Shopping Centre; or explore Kuala Lumpur
Plaza’s boutiques. For an early supper, try Shook on the
lower ground floor of Star Hill for Chinese, Japanese, Western or
Italian cuisine served in chic surroundings.
On a plate
20:00: dining in Kuala Lumpur is a highlight of
any visit. Seri Angkasa, 282 metres up the Kuala Lumpur Tower, has
the best views and a wide selection of Malaysian and western dishes
from around £15 per person. Chinoz on the Park, at Suria KLCC,
has indoor and covered outdoor dining with views over to the lake.
Main meals range from pizzas to wok-fried tiger prawns from
£10. Premier Holidays’ Kuala Lumpur dining experience
involves a walk through Little India before dinner at the Kuala
Lumpur Tower for £35 per person.
Neon and on
22:00: Kuala Lumpur’s many night markets are
a thronging mix of furious bartering and delicious hawker food. The
most established is at Jalan Petaling in Chinatown offering
everything from DVDs to clothes. Colours of Asia’s Kuala
Lumpur Highlights package, £22 per person, includes a tour the
of the night market before dinner. But save some energy for
partying. For live music, the Hard Rock Café on Jalan Sultan
Ismail is popular while around the corner the Beach Club is loud
and busy but fun. Locals with insider knowledge head to Bangsar, a
10-minute taxi ride away, where two streets are lined with bars and
restaurants.
