| Picture: PCL |
Taiwan sits directly on the Tropic of Cancer, 100 miles off
the coast of mainland China and due north of the
Philippines.
Given its prodigious industrial output – Made in Taiwan
really ought to be the national motto – it’s a
surprisingly scenic island with a mountainous centre, inland lakes
and gorges and some fine sandy beaches.
The capital, Taipei, is a bustling city and a great place to
shop, stay, eat and wander – but, like any other Asian
metropolis, it has its serene side. Soon after dawn the Chiang
Kai-Shek Memorial Park is a hotbed of t’ai chi fanatics.
There seems to be many forms of this gentle, graceful exercise.
Some involve the snapping open and shut of heavy fans; others seem
more like line dancing. Either way, it was too early for me –
and I had a long list of landmarks to cover.
The Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial was first. Built in honour of
Taiwan’s first president who fled to the island in 1949,
after being defeated on the mainland by Chinese communists, the
Memorial Hall is dominated by a massive bronze statue of Chiang, in
front of which soldiers parade and change the guard with a
impressive display of stamping, saluting, marching and gun
twirling. Downstairs are a pair of Chiang’s bullet-proof
Cadillacs and a selection of black and white photos.
Close to the Memorial, on Hsu Chow Road, is the Chinese
Handicraft Mart where souvenir hunters will find ceramics, fans,
scroll landscapes and silkwear all under one roof.
Taiwan has a fascinating history but it is impossible to ignore
the new – it rises almost half a mile from the ground in the
shape of Taipei 101, the world’s tallest skyscraper –
at least until the next one is conceived. If you’ve a head
for heights, hop on the world’s fastest lift up 99 floors to
the observation deck, and you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic
view of the city.
Back on terra firma the Grand Hotel is another unmissable
building from a different age. Looking just like an old Chinese
temple, the Grand was Taipei’s first international hotel, and
is perched on a hill near the Martyrs’ Shrine. After a great
dim sum lunch, I paid a quick visit to the nearby Lin An Tai
Historical House on Pinchiang Street. Originally built in 1783 but
subsequently moved and reconstructed on its new site, the house is
an exquisite, atmospheric example of 18th century Chinese
living.
Taipei has some of the world’s finest Chinese cuisine, in
all its regional variety, as well as Japanese, Korean, and several
Mongolian barbecue options. Western tastes are well catered for
too. After dinner I headed over to Lungshan Temple, a
Buddhist/Daoist complex with a spectacular artificial waterfall at
the front. Even at 10pm the temple was busy as locals burned
incense and paper money before asking the gods for advice.
The Hwahsi Night Market, just beyond the temple, served up
delicious tasty street snacks – a choice of squid or pork,
candied tomatoes, roast chestnuts, fruit, noodles and dumplings,
plus the odd sandwich for the less adventurous. The market itself
was just getting lively with packed stalls selling shoes, clothes
and souvenir curios.
Later, at a Western-style bar called Carnegie’s, it was
ladies’ night and the place was crammed with a mix of expats
and locals, with several of them dancing on the bar. Moving on, I
paid a visit to China Ba. Here the music was mellow and the
atmosphere less hectic, but nobody seemed any more concerned about
getting to bed. At least not before an early-morning visit to the
7-11. Bizarrely, Taiwan is reckoned to have more than 3,000 of
these – and most seem to be in Taipei, so convenient
refuelling is never more than a short step away.
