In spite of what the theme park marketing machines tell us,
there is more to Florida than Mickey Mouse and queuing for rides.
Far from the madding crowds that clog Orlando’s infamous
attractions is a water world that’s teeming with wildlife
– both above and below the surface.
The Great Calusa Blueway, in Lee County, is a fine example. Divided
into two sections that weave their way for 75 miles through the
estuaries that run alongside the Gulf of Mexico, the Blueway first
opened in 2003, with the final phase due for its official
inauguration this summer.
The area is at a point where several major rivers converge, making
the water extremely fertile. So much so that locals call it the
‘cradle of the ocean’.
As I took to the water in a kayak in the late afternoon sunshine, I
could hear the swoop and splash of pelicans landing a few feet way.
Their beady eyes and elongated beaks seemed to welcome me with a
strange, feline smile. A few feet further along I could see clumps
of oysters at the water’s edge, bordered by mangrove trees
which added a sense of tropical beauty.
While there are seemingly endless avenues and inlets to explore,
finding your way is easy, thanks to a clever Global Positioning
Satellite system employed en route. In order to use the system you
need to take a GPS handset with you (a bit like a large mobile
phone); satellites then use receivers on route to locate your
position on the map, which you can see on your handset. Easy. The
only snag is that you have to supply your own handset, which costs
around £80.
If your clients prefer a more natural experience they could always
hire a human guide, who will point out marine life along the way. I
went out with Connie, who runs GAEA Guides. As well as being a
qualified naturalist, she will also supply your kayak and offer
basic instructions on paddling for those who’ve never done it
before. First-time clients will have no problems picking it up; it
is an extremely accessible sport with kayakers paddling on water
that’s as smooth as clingfilm. For those who’d rather
go it alone, there are plenty of outfitters which rent kayaks for
the day.
My first session with Connie began in the glow of the early
evening. As we paddled away from Big Hickory Pass into Estero Bay
the sun dipped below the horizon, turning the sky the colour of
strawberry milkshake. Out here, the only sounds are the splosh of
paddle on water, the ubiquitous pelican landing nearby and the odd
motorboat ambling past. Bliss.
Aside from this sunset trip, Connie offers various other tours
including a moonlit option and an outing to find the elusive
manatees. These obscure mammals, also known as sea cows, are
extremely rare; there are only about 250 in the whole state, so to
see one in the flesh is a real privilege. With their strange
snouts, 12ft-long grey bodies and a big flipper at the end of their
tail, they look like a cross between a flabby dog and a seal. In
times gone by, sailors were said to have mistaken them for
mermaids, as they poked their heads above the surface to breathe.
Right at the end of my final excursion with Connie, I was lucky
enough to see three sea cows only a metre from my kayak. This in
addition to the pod of dolphins, leopard rays and leaping mullet
we’d spotted earlier. Not bad for a first-timer.
Back on solid ground, Florida has been busy refurbishing in the
wake of the hurricanes which battered the state last summer.
Although it seemed like a disaster for the region’s tourism
infrastructure at the time, the storm clouds appear to have had a
silver lining, as many hotels have subsequently undergone extensive
renovations.
Close to the Blueway, the South Seas Resort and Yacht Harbour on
Captiva Island has received a $140million upgrade, while the
Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa now has redesigned guestrooms and
public spaces.
Perhaps the most notable addition to the Floridian skyline,
however, is the new airport terminal outside Fort Myers, due to
open on July 20. With 28 aircraft gates and the ability to handle
10 million passengers a year, the airport’s owners are now
looking to attract direct scheduled flights from the UK.
It’s a welcome prospect for anyone wanting to see ‘the
real Florida’. An eight-hour, 30-minute flight could put
clients within reach of the state’s most pristine wilderness,
without a four-hour transfer from Orlando.
Now that’s an attraction I wouldn’t mind queuing for.
