5 – Maui, Lanai and Molokai

August 26, 2005, 15:21

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Maui, Lanai and Molokai

Maui, Lanai and Molokai – The Magic Isles

www.visitmaui.com

Maui – Click to enlarge

Lanai – Click to enlarge

Molokai – Click to enlarge

Welcome to the Magic Isles: Molokai, Lanai, the islet of Molokini and uninhabited Kahoolawe all group around Maui’s southern and western shores, providing a scenic bounty. The geographical placement of these islands makes it perfectly possible to wake up on Maui, spend the day sailing and snorkelling off Lanai, and still get back in time for a sunset luau on the beach at Wailea. Indeed, both Molokai and Lanai can be reached from Maui by Hawaii’s only ferry service.

So now let’s learn more about what makes each of them so special!

The Magic of Maui

In the 1800s, Mark Twain wrote rapturously of his vacation on Maui “… I went to Maui to stay a week and remained five. I never spent so pleasant a month before or bade any place goodbye so regretfully. I have not once thought of business, or care or human toil or trouble or sorrow or weariness … and the memory of it will remain with me forever.”

Welcome to Maui, voted the ‘World’s Best Island’ year after year by travellers. Praise is nothing new, however, with Maui famed as one of the most romantic and magical places on earth and this reputation having its origins deep in the mists of time.

The island of Maui is made up of two volcanoes which give Maui its distinctive shape. The volcano to the west is Mauna Kahalawai, to the east is Mount Haleakala – the ‘House of the Sun’. The volcanoes are connected by a wide, sunny isthmus known as Central Maui.
Mariners refer to the area between Maui, Molokai and Lanai as the bathtub. The ocean currents moving through this protected channel and the fresh water streams that flow into it make it a favourite destination for the humpback whales who migrate to Hawaii every year – one reason why more humpbacks are seen in Maui’s waters than anywhere else in the state.
Windward vs. leeward: On Maui, windward refers to the northeastern side of the island – an area that tends to be green and lush, with numerous waterfalls and a wild variety of foliage. Most of Maui’s resorts and accommodations are, however, located on the leeward side of the island, where the climate is sunnier and drier, with gentle breezes.
© Maui Visitors Bureau /
Ron Dahlquist Photography
Maui’s beaches are legendary. Pristine and sheltered, especially on the leeward coasts, they regularly feature in magazines’ top 10 lists. Great beaches are the idyllic stretch of white sand at Kaanapali, the glorious beaches of Kihei or the endless coves at Wailea and Makena.
Maui is all about discovery – nature lovers can hike Maui’s forested trails and view native plant species, watch rare birds in the wetlands or follow the highways of ancient chiefs.
If you love the glitter and good life, Maui has that too. Maui’s hotel and restaurant chefs are among the best in the country. In a few short years, new young chefs have redefined island cuisine through festivals at the top resorts.
Maui is the whale-watching capital of Hawaii with Humpbacks up to 45ft long and weighing up to 40 tons congregating in the warm offshore waters annually from December to May.
Lahaina’s famous Banyan Tree is the largest of its kind in America.

Maui at a glance

Principal City: Wailuku
Airport: The main airport is in Kahului at the centre of Maui. There is also a smaller airport in Kapalua (West Maui), and a commuter airport in Hana.
Climate: Average temperature ranges from 22° – 25°C in most areas, with variable rainfall in different sections of the island
Nickname: The Magic Isle
Population: Approximately 200,000
Tourist Information Maui: Maui Visitor Association, 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, HI 96793
www.visitmaui.com

Regions:

West Maui

With its abundant sunshine and plentiful water, West Maui was once a major Hawaiian population centre and the favorite playground of royalty. West Maui’s shores are truly blessed: sheltered from tradewinds, fringed by calm clear waters and famous for their spectacular sunsets – little wonder there are several beautiful resort areas to be enjoyed along the coast. Today, West Maui encompasses the resort areas of Kapalua and Kaanapali, the visitor communities of Napili, Kahana, Honokowai and the historic whaling town of Lahaina.

Lahaina Town still retains much of the charm of the old whaling days – be sure to take your time and enjoy a self-guided walking tour of the historic sites. A little further north, Kaanapali extends over an area of 1200 acres, bordered by nearly three miles of white sand beaches – here you’ll find an abundance of condominiums, hotels and two golf courses. Follow the road and you’ll come across the little villages of Napili, Honokawai, and Kahana where West Maui’s best accommodation bargains can be found. Kapalua – a former pineapple plantation – is a 1,500-acre jewel at the end of the resort chain on the West side. The gently rolling hillside, spreading from the white sand beach of Kapalua Bay to the base of the West Maui Mountains, boasts high-end accommodations, three of the finest golf courses on Maui and beautiful upscale villa communities.

South Maui

South Maui is known for its coastal areas, with mile-after-mile of sandy white beaches, with pristine reef on way side and low-level wetlands to the other. Sheltered on the leeward side of Mount Haleakala, this area is sunnier and drier than the rest of the island and is also ideal for diving and snorkelling, with remnants of ancient Hawaiian fishponds also still visible today. South Maui now incorporates the coastal communities of Maalaea and Kihei, as well as the resort communities of Wailea and Makena. Maalaea is a laid back village made up of smaller condominiums alongside a small boat harbour where many day trips and fishing charters depart from. Kihei, meanwhile, is one of the fastest growing towns in Hawaii. Made up of a six mile stretch of mini malls, condominiums, residential housing and beach parks, the eclectic layout forms part of its charm. Wailea, though just a stone’s throw from Kihei, is a whole world away. As you head into Wailea the first thing you may notice is how lush and green its meticulously manicured landscape is and this is where you’ll find some of Maui’s finest golf courses and five star hotels. Makena, located four miles on from Wailea, is home to “Big Beach” – one of Maui’s most perfect beaches – as well as a host of other beaches, from long stretches of white sand beach to smaller cove-like beaches.

Central Maui

The sunny isthmus between Maui’s two volcanoes encompasses residential communities, sugar and pineapple plantations as well as some of Maui’s most popular visitor attractions, including the Iao Valley and the Maui Tropical Plantation.

As well as being where Maui’s airport is located, Kahului is also the commercial centre of the island and therefore a great town to shop for all your holiday needs. Wailuku is home to the State and County government offices and its old town provides a glimpse back to the early days of Maui’s history. A great way to learn more about the many exotic plants grown on the Hawaiian Island is to visit Maui Tropical Plantation where you’ll come across papaya trees, banana plants, palms and more. One of the highlights in this area is surely the Iao Valley, a lush, deep, tropical valley where the Iao Needle – a natural rock pinnacle – presides over the Iao stream.

Upcountry

‘Upcountry Maui’ refers to the towns, ranches, vineyards, farmlands and visitor attractions found on the upper slopes of the island, including the majestic Haleakala National Park and Haleakala Crater, the largest dormant volcano on earth and the torso of the entire island. Charming and rural, Upcountry Maui is the heart of the island’s agricultural industry as well as a thriving artists’ community and shopping hot spot. Maui’s Upcountry takes in spectacularly varied landscapes, from alpine terrain and lava-encrusted wasteland to pasturelands blessed with huge jacaranda and eucalyptus trees as well as lovely traditional country houses. While here be sure not to miss the chance to go stargazing from the volcano’s summit, bike down from Haleakala crater, go horseriding on its slopes and finish off with a wine tasting session at the famous Tedeschi Winery where you can even indulge in some pineapple wine!

East Maui

This area of Maui stretches from Kahului Airport out to the community of Hana on the northeastern tip of the island and is renowned for its great surfing as well as kite-surfing, quaint towns and lush rural scenery. Known as the windward side, it is largely undeveloped and much of the narrow road to Hana winds along the island’s stunning northern coastline. Indeed, one of the most beautiful and rewarding of Hawaii’s outings is to drive down the Hana Highway. The route takes you along beautiful coastlines, pasture land and lush tropical rainforest. Be sure to allow an entire day for the trip as there’s plenty to see: you’ll not only cross 54 bridges en route but will also pass valleys brimming with ferns, trees and flowers of all colours along with waterfalls and freshwater pools – perfect for a cooling break along the way.

Similarly, if you set out from Kahului and drive all the way to Hana you’ll come across the old sugar plantation town of Paia – the windsurfing capital of the world and a destination for artists of all mediums. Three miles on from Paia is Hookipa Beach, where the world’s best windsurfers can be seen either competing or polishing up their skills thanks to the great surf and strong tradewinds that have made the area synonymous with the sport.

Things not to be missed:

Whale-watching: From December until May the giant humpback whales make their winter home in Maui’s offshore waters, travelling here to mate and give birth to their young. The Pacific Whale Foundation conducts whale watching excursions aboard both power and sail boats while several shoreline sites offer excellent whale watching opportunities, including Puu Olai at Makena and waterfront restaurants in Lahaina.
© Hawaii Tourism Japan
Windsurfing: Hookipa Beach is the windsurfer’s paradise and the charming town of Paia is its “cool” capital. The perfect waves and brisk onshore breezes are ideal for the fleets of neon-bright sails that streak across the waves. Spectators can watch from a convenient hillside lookout while, for the more active, rentals and lessons are available in Paia and other locations around the island.
Hiking: Walk into a rainforest echoing with the songs of birds found nowhere else on the planet, trek along a rugged lava shoreline spewing giant geysers or hike into mysterious sea caves, the home of many ancient legends. Embark on trails to waterfalls with plunge pools along the way perfect for a swim stop, as well as walks into valleys so deep they never see a sunrise or a sunset. There are even trails into the dramatic lunaresque landscape of Haleakala crater where park rangers at Haleakala National Park, both at the summit and the Kipahulu shoreline section, offer nature walks and guided hikes.
© HVCB / Ron
Dahlquist
Cycle downhill from Haleakala Volcano: There are guided downhill bike tours from the summit of Haleakala Volcano through the flower farms and small towns of Upcountry to the beach at Paia, with the elevation dropping 10,000 feet in 38 miles. Bicycle rentals are available on the island.
Drive along the Hana Highway. The road has 54 bridges within 56 miles, taking you across numerous waterfalls, quaint towns and some great beaches along the way. Car rental is inexpensive.
Dive sunken Molokini crater: Here you’ll come face to face with hundreds of tropical fish, graceful rays, Octopi, moray eels and even white tip reef sharks.
Island Hop: Go to Molokai and take in the flora and fauna. Family-run sailing cruises offer picnics on Lanai, or else you can take the ferry service over for the day. Boats leave from both Lahaina and Kihei for snorkel and dive trips to tiny Molokini island.
Swim: There are more than 80 beaches on Maui, boasting sands of gold, black, green, red and purest white.
© Hawaii Tourism Japan

© HVCB / Kirk Lee Aeder
Surf: Learn the ancient sport of kings. ‘Hot-dawg’ surfers can put their skills to the test at Slaughterhouse, Hookipa and Sand Box. Novices, meanwhile, can sign up for surfing lessons at the hotels and usually find themselves able to ride those long rollers by the end of their first time out.
Golf: There are 16 courses on Maui, most of which are championship courses designed by golf’s biggest names and frequented by the sport’s leading professional players.
Fitness and spa: Several resorts offer complete European-style spa facilities along with Japanese baths which, coupled with the many gyms around the island, make Maui the perfect place. Many hotels offer free aerobics and aqua-aerobics. Outdoors, there are miles of jogging paths to get moving on as well as the chance to take part in the Maui Marathon in September.
Love a luau: The traditional feast of the islands is still held regularly on Maui, with many hotels staging authentic beachside luau. These include traditional Hawaiian foods such as kalua pig cooked in an earthen oven, poi and haupia coconut pudding, along with a buffet of more familiar western treats. There is accompanied by performances incorporating singing, hula and fire dancing guaranteeing a highly entertaining evening.
Horseback ride: Where else can a rider descend into a volcanic crater and picnic in a landscape that appears to resemble the moon? Guided horseback rides allow you to explore Maui’s ranches, rainforests, remote beaches and high meadows. Other options include moonlight rides across the lava, breakfast, luau rides and even a wine tasting ride.

Lanai at a glance

Principal City: Lanai City
Airport: Lanai Airport
Climate: Average temperatures range from 22° – 25°C in most areas, with variable rainfall across the island.
Population: Over 3,000
Tourist Information: Lanai Visitors Bureau, P.O. Box 631436, Lanai City, HI 96763-1436 www.visitlanai.net
Hotels: Lodge at Koele, Four Seasons Resorts Lanai at Manele Bay and Hotel Lanai.
Golf Courses: Experience at Koele, Challenge at Manele and Cavendish (municipal course).

Lanai – Hawaii’s Most Enticing Island

The experience of Lanai begins as soon as you land: on an airstrip in the middle of the vast Palawai Basin, a large crater in the heart of Lanai. Here, at last, is a place tranquil enough to pick up that novel you’ve been meaning to read for years. Lanai is a well-earned escape from the stresses of everyday life: a place of pampering and sheer luxury, where the attentive service responds to your unique needs and the beauty of your surroundings help lift your spirits and restore your energy levels.

There are only a handful of hotels on the island, no traffic lights or beeping horns, simply the quiet, intimate rhythms of an unhurried way of life. Indeed, seclusion and intimacy go hand in hand on Lanai and the comforts of home are never far away. The two luxury hotels – one in the uplands and the other on the beach – cater for all the needs of the discerning and adventurous traveller, while the island’s oldest hotel, the 11-room Hotel Lanai, has welcomed guests since 1923. On from Lanai City, horses graze in golden pastures while, at the Lodge at Koele, the majestic century old Cook pines tower over manicured English gardens.

A treat for all your senses, from the refreshing mountain air to awe-inspiring views and from luxurious accommodation to world-renowned service, a holiday in Lanai is a holiday in paradise.

Island Air offers daily flights to and from Lanai. By sea, the Expeditions ferry, certified by the US Coast Guard, operates five trips daily between Lanai’s Manele Small Boat Harbour and Maui’s Lahaina Harbour. These 45-minute long crossings might even offer you the chance to be treated to close-up views of humpback whales in the winter months or even spinner dolphins all year round.

Things not to miss:

Dolphin watching: Like their mammal cousins the humpback whales, spinner dolphins love the warm waters of Lanai and consider them their personal playground. And what a playground it is, with some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving in Hawaii, miles of deserted coastline, reefs full of fish and landmarks rich in local legend.
© Hawaii Tourism Japan
Scuba dive the Cathedrals: Scuba divers the world over know that Cathedrals – just off Lanai’s southern shore – is one of the premier dive spots, where underwater caverns and clear waters prove a scuba divers delight.
Kayak and snorkel along an 8-mile stretch of shoreline named Kaiolohia, also known as Shipwreck.
Hike: The Munro Trail is one of Lanai’s terrestrial highlights, a challenging 16-mile trail for advanced hikers that traverses the 3,370-foot Lanaihale accessible by foot, bicycle and 4-wheel drive. Astounding views unfold over steep gulches below and at least three, and sometimes five, of the neighbouring islands: Maui, Molokai, Kahoolawe, Hawaii and Oahu.
Mountain bike: The 6.5-mile downhill slope from Koele to Kaiolohia is heaven for mountain bikers.
Golf: The Experience at Koele is a spectacular 18-hole championship course spread high over the rolling hills of central Lanai, designed by Greg Norman and Ted Robinson and offering views across to Maui and Molokai on the other side of the channel. At sea level, the Challenge at Manele is built on hundreds of acres of lava fields and dry, desert-like terrain that present the ultimate challenge: three holes built on the bluffs above Hulopoe Bay, where the Pacific Ocean acts as the world’s largest water hazard.
© Hawaii Tourism
Japan
Go to Keahikawelo: A mile and a half northwest of the Kanepuu Preserve, the bumpy road leads to Keahikawelo, a haunting geological wonder also known as the Garden of the Gods. Spires and rock formations emerge from its eerie lunar landscape in all shades of purple and red, the handiwork of the wind gods given that centuries of wind erosion have created these natural formations.

Molokai – Hawaiian by Nature

Molokai

Molokai at a glance

Population: 7,400
Airport: Molokai Airport, located in the centre of Molokai
Principal City: Kaunakakai
Climate: Average temperature from 21 – 24°C with rainfall measuring about 76cm / year
Tourist Information: Molokai Visitors Association, PO Box 960 Kaunakakai, HI 96748, www.molokai-hawaii.com
Golf Courses: Molokai has one nine-hole and one eighteen-hole course. The Greens at Kauluwai, better known as Ironwoods Golf Course, is located “upcountry” while the other – Kaluakoi Golf Course – sprawls along the west shore.

For such a tiny island, Molokai certainly boasts some awe-inspiring natural attractions. The mountainous, rainforest-clad eastern region of Molokai boasts a series of deep valleys and the tallest sea cliffs in the world, towering 3,000 feet. Hawaii’s highest waterfalls cascade into the valleys here while the Kamakou Preserve is a mountain forest which is home to several species of endangered native plants and birds.

Some of Hawaii’s largest and most idyllic beaches can be found on the west coast, including the three-mile-long Papohaku Beach. Here tremendous waves break against the beach, particularly during winter – stunning to watch, but making swimming dangerous. Further along the west coast of the island is the sheltered Dixie Maru Beach with its swimming and snorkeling potential.

Molokai is the most undeveloped and least touristy of all Hawaii’s islands. No buildings are taller than a coconut tree and there is no public transport so, to get around, you will need a car – a four-wheel-drive for the more adventurous. One of the highlights of a visit to Molokai is heading off to explore the picturesque and isolated peninsula of Kalaupapa to the north of the island, although you can’t actually get there by car.

Molokai’s main centre, Kaunakakai, was built as a port for the sugar industry in the late 18th Century and still retains echoes of its past through its wooden store fronts. The 28-mile drive to the Halawa Valley, on the eastern end of the island, passes two of the four churches built by Father Damien as well as a series of rock-wall fish ponds which date back to when the ancient Hawaiians operated an aquaculture system over 700 years ago. A trail also leads from the road to Iliiliopae Heiau, a huge temple platform set deep within a forest where human sacrifices were performed right up until the 18th Century.

The south coast can lay claim to Hawaii’s largest reef system, which ensures excellent diving and snorkeling opportunities. Hiking, kayaking and cycling are other popular activities and visitors can expect to spend most of their time outdoors exploring Molokai’s unspoilt natural environment.

Central Molokai provides a variety of bed-and-breakfast style accommodation while the sheltered south shore offers modest mini-resorts. However, for both comfort and novelty, visitors should head to the Sheraton Molokai. Molokai’s tranquillity may not be for everyone but it’s the perfect spot for independent travellers who want to join in Hawaii’s laid back lifestyle while away or to whom the freedom, safety and pristine natural beauty might appeal. It is also perfect for couples – especially couples who love the outdoors or are seeking all the romance of a very tranquil and unspoilt hideaway.

Things not to be missed:

© Hawaii Tourism
Japan
Kalaupapa National Historical Park: While Father Damien is a famous name throughout the Hawaiian Islands, Kalaupapa is not nearly as well known. Yet, it is here that the legend of Father Damien began. Having arrived in this desolate area in 1873, less than 10 years after King Kamehameha V displaced all of Kalaupapa’s natives, he established Molokai’s famous leper colony on the tip of the peninsula. Shrouded in mystery and set apart from modern-day Hawaii through a combination of location and deliberate choice, visitors can now only get to the area on a mule or in a plane. Damien Tours is the only company that is allowed to operate ground tours of the area.
Halawa Valley: A popular place for hiking and sightseeing, it is the only one of Molokai’s valleys that is accessible by car. Another popular place to stop and look around is Moaula Falls, with numerous photo opportunities offered along the way.
Halawa Valley Bay: This lovely spot is situated near to Puu O Hoku Ranch, at the end of Halawa Valley. It’s a great spot for a picnic as you make the most of the fantastic weather. Surfers also frequent the area at certain times of the year as do snorkellers when the water is calm.
© Hawaii Tourism
Japan
Palaau State Park: Hiking trails, lookout spots and an ancient fertility shrine can all be found in this park located on the northern side of Molokai, in between Kualapuu Town and Kalaupapa State Park. Trails lead on to the Kalaupapa Lookout, the high point from which (guided only!) hiking and mule tours set off on the arduous trek to the Kalaupapa Preserve 1,600 feet below. A second trail leads to Phallic Rock, a large stone rock formation visited by women in ancient times.