There’s something about rural Majorca that makes me want to lace up my barely used trainers and get active. Considering my holidays usually involve lying on a beach, shoving heavily loaded forks into my mouth and sleeping, I was more than a little surprised to find myself so restless on a day perfect for doing nothing. Happily I wasn’t alone. Around me holidaymakers were swinging clubs, slogging tennis balls or straddling bikes in temperatures pushing 30C. “It’s the country air,” said Astrid Lammli, general manager of Reserva Rotana, a member of Reis de Mallorca – a 31-strong group of independent hotels. “It makes you feel refreshed and raring to go.” Majorca has long been a favourite with holidaymakers after a lazy break by the coast or the easy sophistication of the capital, Palma. But it’s the interior that provides the best example of island life with rolling hills, abundant olive groves, windmills, cobbled paths and sweeping views. With tightly enforced building restrictions in place outlawing irresponsible development, the island’s flora and fauna are protected. Many farmhouses – fincas – have now been converted into rustic hotels for clients looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the coast. These properties boast generous acreage and outdoor pools in a garden settings. But finding them can be something of a challenge as they’re generally – often frustratingly – well hidden. Car hire and a good map are highly recommended. I sped James Bond-style up to Ca’n Verdera, a 150-year-old stone-walled property nestled in the Serra De Tramuntana mountain range, ideal for exploring the surrounding area. Here, two or three-day hiking and cycling tours are popular with guests wanting to discover the region’s wildlife – black vultures and martins can be spotted – and sample local wine in tiny villages where the pace of life is practically at a standstill. Further south, Sa Posada d’Aumallia near Felantix is a comparably smaller, family-run stone-walled property with a restaurant serving organic vegetables from its own garden, while Hotel Rural Monnaber Nou near Campanet has a large spa with an array of treatments for relaxing tired muscles after a day’s exertion. Wherever guests choose to stay, they’re never far from a horse-riding school offering lessons for all ages and abilities. I swung into Son Menut near Campos for a trot in the countryside. A nation of avid riders, John Wayne wannabes should be brutally honest about their ability if, like me, they don’t want to be faced with an angry-looking stallion on their fifth ever lesson. I opted to stay in the school’s grounds but more experienced riders can take their horses on a solo jaunt in the countryside; down dusty tracks, through streams and vineyards – the wind through the trees and the clip-clop of hooves the only sound for miles around. Those wanting to avoid being saddle sore should occupy themselves instead on one of the region’s many golf courses. Golf Son Termens’ 18-hole course is one of the most scenic in Majorca with pristine greens, clear lakes and the Tramuntana mountains as a backdrop. Four of the Reis de Mallorca hotels also offer golf courses in their grounds for the exclusive use of their guests. Unlike UK clubs, where the 19th hole is typically indoors, Majorcan watering holes are gardens overlooking the hills with a barbecue crackling in the background – the cuisine a refreshing diversion from the stodgy paella or thrice-fried tapas commonly served in the resorts. Overlooking Reserva Rotana’
As it made its descent, I felt a pang of guilt for my supremely relaxed state. Perhaps I should hop on a bike, or go for an evening swim. But as the waitress neared to top up my glass, I couldn’t help thinking there’s always tomorrow.
