WENGEN and Grindelwald, set high in the picturesque Swiss Alps above the lush green Lauterbrunnen valley, spend most of their year as typically quiet mountain villages, a three-hour ride from the gently bustling city of Zurich.
Come winter, they burst into life when the World Cup heads to town for the classic Lauberhorn run, one of the ultimate challenges on the ski circuit.
Standing at the top of the 4,276 metre course, the breathtaking sight of the Bernese Oberland takes in the awesome glaciated slopes and peaks of the Eiger, one of the Alps’ most challenging climbs, and the similarly pyramidal forms of the Monch and the Jungfrau. But the spectacular views cannot cover the feeling of trepidation for the mighty hill itself.
The course takes in a vertical drop of 1,028 metres and steers down the Traversenschuss, a long run taken in a tuck by the bravest racers, through a series of tough technical turns and over the high-speed Hundschopf jump, which literally means ‘Head of Dog’, then through the high-speed S-curve of Bruggli and the remaining gliding turns to the finish line.
There, when the World Cup is in town, eyes fix to the big screen down on the specially created stadium-style finishing area, as each skier shoots down the hill trying to find those vital split seconds to push them up the leaderboard without making a crucial mistake that could send them flying out of control into the surrounding trees.
The cacophony of cowbells and cheers from the spectators mixed with the traditional Swiss folk bands almost completely drowns out the struggling commentary, but nobody cares. The atmosphere is what counts; the gluhwein is flowing and the grilled bockwurst is going down a treat. This is the Lauberhorn at its best.
Each day the race heroes are presented to jubilant crowds in the central square of Wengen, who then pack venues such as the cosy Sina’s Pub and often get the chance to rub shoulders with the racers once the event is over.
Thousands of visitors turn up for this one special weekend, taking place next year from January 13-15, flocking up the rickety cog railway from Lauterbrunnen, the only route into the idyllic area.
The Lauberhorn is a vital part of the ongoing history of the area. It began 75 years ago last year when Swiss ski pioneer Arnold Gertsch launched the first classical race.
To many, it is the birthplace of international ski racing and remains a vital venue thanks to the same leg-burning course that remains the longest on the Alpine World Cup circuit.
And when the crowds disperse at the end of the annual ritual, the surrounding slopes are left to offer excellent and breathtaking skiing for amateur and advanced alike.
Likewise, an air of normality returns once off the slopes, leaving behind a more gentle nightlife of cafés and intimate bars that make each resort feel like a home away from home.
