Alternately stylish and shambolic, historic and modern, European and Asian, Istanbul still fascinates British holidaymakers.
And, as ever, it is the 3,000-year-old city’s sights – influenced by Roman, early Christian, Ottoman and secular Western cultures – that are central to its appeal.
After a few of hours’ sightseeing, carpet shopping and taxi dodging in the spectacular but hectic Old Town, sightseers can board a ferry to the peaceful, traffic-free Princes Islands and be on a beach within an hour.
Anatolian Sky managing director Akin Koc said: “Where else do you find the best mosques next to the best cathedrals? Istanbul isn’t just a city, it is a coastal resort.”
The city’s modernisation is helping it build on its strong foundations. Recent investment in public transport has made Istanbul easier to explore. In 2005 the tram line was extended across the Galata Bridge to Kabatas port on the European side, and from there a new funicular railway link runs up to the shops and bars of Taksim.
Luxury hotel growth reflects the city’s development. Marriott International opened the 219-room Istanbul Marriot Hotel Asia last year, while the celebrated Hotel Les Ottomans, a converted 18th century mansion on the European shore of the Bosphorus, opened in 2006.
At the same time, Formula 1 is making its mark. Istanbul Park is ‘without doubt the best venue in the world’ according to Bernie Ecclestone, whose Formula 1 Administration has taken out a 15-year lease on the track.
“Istanbul’s visitor numbers are growing 25% year on year,” said Koc.
Where to stay
The elegant choice is Pera Palas – it was built specifically for passengers who had just disembarked the Orient-Express from Paris. Previous guests include Mata Hari, Greta Garbo and Agatha Christie.
If they can forgive its name, hipsters will enjoy the Lush Hip Hotel, a boutique property which opened in 2007 in the trendy Beyoglu district. Each of the 21 rooms was designed by architect Elif Özdemir. They range from sophisticated minimalism to bedsit kitsch.
If it’s authenticity you’re after, there are scores of Ottoman-style buildings in the Sultanahmet district, which have been renovated as hotels. The charming Ayasofya Mansions (previously the Ayasofya Pensions) is the original, but international brands have also got in on the act – Best Western’s Sokullu Pasa occupies a 16th century clapboard building.
By day
The big-ticket sights are concentrated around Sultanahmet. Here you’ll find the sprawling, magnificent Topkapi Palace, the faded but glorious Hagia Sophia, the opulent Blue Mosque and the spooky Basilica Cistern, so take a deep breath and do them in one go. There are plenty of bars and cafes in which to recover afterwards – Otel Alzer, at the far end of the Hippodrome, has good views of the mosque.
Bargain hunters can test their mettle at the Grand Bazaar, over 75 acres of shops selling jewellery, clothing, Turkish sweets, antiques, bric-a-brac and – of course – carpets. Should it all get too much, calm your nerves with a browse around the nearby Sahaflar Carsisi, a quiet square with stalls selling art, books and sheet music.
For more familiar shops head to Kanyon in the Levent area. Opened in 2005, it has enough familiar names to keep fashionistas happy – including Mango, Guess and Harvey Nichols.
Get out of the city on a short cruise of the Bosphorus. Round trips depart from the Eminonu jetty (near Galata Bridge on the Asian side) three times a day in summer, and travel down to the old fortress town of Anadolu Kavagi on the Black Sea coast.
It takes a full morning or afternoon, so if you’re pressed for time just explore the immediate area on the frequent local ferries – you’ll still get magnificent views of the city.
Shift down a gear in Gulhane Park, a pretty garden in the shadow of Topkapi Palace. Follow it to the far side of the palace and walk uphill to find Set Ustu, a tea garden with wooden tables and views of the Bosphorus. Order some Turkish tea and take in the scenery.
By night
There is better nightlife on the European side of the city, but take the scenic route to get there. At dusk the Galata Bridge is crammed with fishermen, and ferry lights bobbing on the Bosphorus, with the imposing Galata Tower looming in front of you.
From the other side, take the funicular railway up to Tunel and bar hop along Istiklal Avenue, the epicentre of young Istanbul. There is something for everyone, from the bars of the Nu Pera complex to Nublu Records’ Ghetto, playing everything from live jazz to electronica.
If all that sounds a little understated, head to the banks of the Bosphorus to Laila or Reina, Istanbul’s most glamorous nightspots. Expect a wealthy crowd and even a few famous faces. Both are restaurant, bar and dancefloor complexes with incredible views across the water. Bookings are advised, but are no guarantee of getting past the door police.
More sober evening entertainment can be found at the Ataturk Cultural Centre near Taksim tube station. With five concert halls it offers a programme of classical music, film, ballet and theatre; and if nothing takes your fancy, the smaller Akbank Cultural Centre is a short walk away. Pick up Time Out Istanbul for listings.
Istanbul fact file
Who flies there? British Airways and Turkish Airlines fly Heathrow to Istanbul Ataturk. EasyJet flies to Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen from Luton.
Flight time: About four hours
Currency: New Turkish lira
Time difference: GMT +2 hours
Weather: In summer temperatures reach the high 20s. The climate remains mild from October to March, but be prepared for rain.
