Leave the crowds behind and head to northern Spain, where the pace of life is slower and the scenery varied. Tinx Newton reports
Northern Spain remain largely undiscovered, but it’s a green, picturesque region rich in history and tradition – it is home to the Basques, the longest-established people in Europe.
The climate is perfect – northern Spain is far enough south to benefit from fine weather, but the proximity of the mountains and the Atlantic ensure it gets enough rain to keep it lush and varied.
With beautiful old towns, stunning scenery and a glorious coastline, northern Spain is a perfect short-break destination.
Where to stay
Paradors are the cream of northern Spain’s accommodation. These government-run hotels are usually glorious old buildings such as monasteries or castles. They may not always have five-star facilities, but they are comfortable.
Other hotels in northern Spain are of high quality, with stars awarded by the regional tourist authority. For those on a budget, hostels and pensions have charm but do not necessarily have en suite facilities.
Self-catering apartments are another cheap option, and offer great flexibility – in Mundaka try the Apartamentos Mundaka.
In large towns such as Bilbao, Santander and Gijon, accommodation varies from five-star hotels to small guest houses. The four-star Hotel Spa Husa Jardines de Albia in Bilbao is functional and well-located and Hotel Real in Santander has fine views.
How to get there
British Airways, easyJet and Iberia all fly direct to Bilbao, with a journey time of just under two hours. BA and Iberia fly to Santander and Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain.
SeaFrance, Britanny Ferries, Stenna and P&O Ferries sail to Santander, although the journey time is approximately 20 hours. P&O also sails from Portsmouth to Bilbao. Or you can take the train via Paris.
By day
One of the great attractions of a short break to northern Spain is the ease of travelling around.
Hire a car if possible, but if you can’t, take the train – the rail network is efficient and runs through spectacular countryside.
Trains depart from Abando station in Bilbao and run to the coast and inland to the mountains. Just 45 minutes on a train will get you to fine walking country or great beaches.
The Basque coastline, or Costa Vasca, is characterised by rugged cliffs, little coves and sandy beaches. Small seaside towns such as Mundaka are full of charm and boast the best surfing in northern Spain.
Costa Vasca is scattered with fishing villages steeped in history. Gernika-Lumo was the target of the world’s first saturation bombing raid, carried out by Nazi aircraft in 1937. Lekeitio still has elegant 19th-century villas lining the seafront and at low tide the island of San Nicolas can be reached by foot.
Further along the coast, Ondarroa is a charming old port, and Getaria is the centre of Txakoli wine production and known for good food. The fashionable summer resort of San Sebastian has a wonderful curved bay backed by beautiful hills, and a plaza that used to be a bullring.
Save your stamina for the bright lights of Bilbao, Santander and other major cities. Bilbao’s main attraction is the Guggenheim Museum, an iconic contemporary art gallery.
By night
A vibrant nightlife is alive and kicking in the north. After a day of sightseeing, collapse into a tapas bar for a snack washed down with some local wine, sangria or cider.
The Spanish also love coffee and a frightening variety of spirits. Be careful with those tapas though – they are deceptively filling and the bill can soon add up to the price of a full-blown meal.
Even the tiny fishing villages come alive at night, but don’t expect the restaurants to open too early – the Basques like to build up an appetite and often don’t eat until 9pm or later.
Bilbao has all the attractions of a major city and nightlife comes in various levels of intensity. Relaxed, bar-to-bar wining and dining begins in the beautiful Casco Viejo and along Calle Licenciado Poza in the Ensanche area, where poteo (tippling), txikiteo (more tippling), and tapeo (tippling and tapas) continue late into the night.
Other bar-hopping zones include Paseo del Arenal, Calle Ledesma, and Calle Elcano. Los Jardines de Albia, with the Cafe Iruña in the forefront, is also a hub for a variety of cafes, bars, and taverns.
