Head to Nashville, Tennessee for matchless music memorabilia, kitschy shops and classic southern cooking. Ben Lerwill reports
Nashville needs little introduction. The Tennessee state capital is the heartland of country and western music, where everyone from Johnny Cash to Dolly Parton cut their teeth.
It’s not a particularly big city, but its cultural heritage still stands proud – day and night, the town centre comes alive with cowboy calls and stage shows.
There’s lots more besides the gee-tars, of course: the city and surrounding region give a memorably authentic taste of the deep-fried southern states.
Where to stay
The smart Gaylord Opryland Resort is a serious proposition – the largest non-gaming hotel in the US, no less.
It has 2,881 rooms split across three giant glass atriums, along with a spa, seven restaurants and its own Jack Daniel’s saloon. It’s a 15-minute drive from downtown, although it sits right next to the Grand Ole Opry House.
Also out of town, the refurbished Sheraton Music City offers a similar level of comfort, while closer to the centre, Millennium Maxwell House Hotel has an outdoor pool and music memorabilia.
Elsewhere, the Doubletree Hotel Nashville is also freshly renovated and a good bet for a downtown location, providing family-friendly facilities and easy access to attractions. There are Holiday Inns close to the Opryland and the airport.
By day
If you’re on a Music City pilgrimage, the best place to start is at the impressive Country Music Hall of Fame.
The modern complex tells an absorbing tale, from the genre’s immigrant roots through to the stars of today, incorporating some eye-popping memorabilia and displays of Nudie Suits, gold discs and vintage library footage.
A joint ticket also gets you access to the nearby RCA Studio B, where, among countless other claims to fame, Elvis laid down Are You Lonesome Tonight? and Dolly Parton cut Jolene.
The studio has barely altered since the 1960s – visitors can wander the building and even tinkle the old Steinway piano of its heyday.
The centre of town is also the best place to pick up souvenirs, be they kitsch (Tammy Wynette earmuffs, anyone?) or classy. The newly opened Nashville Cowboy stocks high-end hats and boots, while Hatch Show Print has produced and sold distinctive concert posters since 1879.
For a modern mall experience, meanwhile, head to Opry Mills.
Just over an hour’s drive from Nashville, the Jack Daniel’s Distillery at Lynchburg is a must. Every bottle of the whiskey on the shelves worldwide is still produced here, and it’s a suitably atmospheric place to visit.
Guided tours give an insight into the 150-year-old process. Belle Meade Plantation, a mansion and museum dating back to the 1850s, is another popular day trip.
For families, it’s worth knowing that the run-up to Christmas is extremely child-friendly in Nashville – kids can expect ice spectaculars, giant grottos and the Radio City Rockettes Stage Show.
By night
It’s virtually obligatory for any trip to coincide with a performance of the Grand Ole Opry.
The country music radio show has been broadcast in front of a live audience every week since 1925, and every musician worth their tasselled shirt has helped in its success.
Shows take place at the Grand Ole Opry House on Friday and Saturday nights (as well as Tuesdays from March to December). It’s worth being here over the winter months, when the performance returns to the famous Ryman Auditorium, which is also open for tours year-round.
The Cumberland River cuts through the heart of Nashville’s modest but distinctive skyline, so a dinner cruise on the General Jackson showboat paddle-steamer is a good way to kick-start the evening and take in the city.
Back on land, other notable dining options include Calhoun’s for smoked ribs and the Hermitage Hotel’s Capitol Grille for upmarket southern favourites.
The after-dark soul of Nashville lies in the honky tonk bars along Broadway, drawing locals and tourists alike and pumping out live music long into the night.
Tootsie’s is perhaps the most celebrated spot, and sets the tone for many of its neighbours with its old show-bills, fan graffiti and neon bar lights.
Just around the corner, the Wildhorse Saloon is another big draw. A converted warehouse with a vast dance floor, it’s where to come for cold beer, fried green tomatoes and late-night bluegrass. Bands at most bars play only for tips, so bring spare change.
Nashville travel fact file
Getting there: In the absence of a direct service, access to Nashville is via a US gateway airport, usually Chicago. Atlanta, Minneapolis, Detroit and Charlotte are among other possibilities.
Journey time: Between 10 and 15 hours, depending on stopover time.
Currency: US dollar
Time difference: GMT -6 hours
Weather: Nashville has a relatively mild climate, with summer averages of 32C and winter temperatures of 8C with light snowfalls.
Sample packages
Cosmos Tourama runs a 12-night Dixieland and Rhythms break, taking in the best of Nashville as well as other US cities. From £1,319.
Funway Holidays has three-night city breaks from £669 until the end of April, staying at the Gaylord Opryland Resort.
Virgin Holidays offers a seven-night break in June at Sheraton Music City from £998, including flights.
