The British Virgin Islands offer some of the most unspoilt scenery in the Caribbean. Anna Selby picks the best sights, activities, hotels and resorts
If driving through the British Virgin Islands reminds you of driving through a mountain range, you’ve got it in one.
During the Ice Age, almost all of the Virgin Islands were a single land mass. When the glaciers melted, the sea level rose, leaving only its peaks to form a unique and extraordinarily beautiful land and seascape.
And because of the islands’ proximity to each other, you get continually changing and breathtaking vistas of them – my bet is they’re the best views in the Caribbean.
As if this weren’t enough to tempt the discerning traveller, the British Virgin Islands form one of those rare things – an unspoilt Caribbean destination. The people are welcoming, there are no crowds, there’s almost no crime and the weather, of course, is pretty good, too.
The downside? Well, there’s always one. In this case it’s the fact that there are no direct flights, so you have to change planes in Antigua.
Tortola is the main island and is just 24 sq miles with a population of 25,000. Out of more than 60 islands, just 12 are inhabited and they are all within easy sailing reach, one of the reasons the British Virgin Islands is the undisputed yacht capital of the world.
Where to stay
Peter Island Resort takes up an entire private island and has its own ferry from Tortola. Five star all the way, it’s just opened a 10,000 sq ft spa with waterfalls, treatment suites for couples, private whirlpools and meditation areas.
Biras Creek Resort on Virgin Gorda (literally ‘fat virgin’) is another luxury resort, with 33 suites and the option to spend part of the time on board their yacht. They offer full-board packages with free watersports and instruction, and bikes. Popular for weddings and honeymoons.
Fort Recovery Beachfront Villas on Tortola are built around a 17th-century British fort and have a variety of villa-style rooms including one four-bedroom beach house. They have a learn-to-sail package and family friendly offers that can include everything from swimming with dolphins to yoga.
By day
The British Virgin Islands have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world with plenty of snorkelling and watersports. Top beaches include Smugglers Cove, Long Bay and Cane Garden Bay on Tortola.
You can take a ferry or hire a local sailing boat or water taxi to visit nearby islands, such as Jost Van Dyke – home to White Bay, Sandy Bay and a natural whirlpool at East End – or Virgin Gorda with ‘The Baths’ – an unusual geological formation including rock pools and grottoes. BVI beaches are never, ever crowded.
For a taste of the most famous local produce, make your way through the sugar canes growing outside the door to visit the Callwood Rum Distillery at Cane Garden Bay.
Go shopping in Tortola’s capital – Road Town – whose main thoroughfare is a narrow one-way street with Technicolor shuttered shops and restaurants.
You can swim with dolphins at Dolphin Discovery on Tortola, while non-swimmers can get to know them in waist-deep water.
By night
Sailing at any time in the BVIs is pretty sensational but a sunset cruise is a must for all romantics. There are dozens of local charter companies that take a late afternoon trip through the islands, serving food, pina coladas, champagne – you name it.
Dining out can be highly sophisticated or local and funky. For the first option try the Sugar Mill Hotel in Apple Bay or Brandywine Bay overlooking Drake’s Channel. For great West Indian food, go to Sebastian’s on the Beach in Little Apple Bay or Coco Plums in Apple Bay.
The BVIs are quiet – except when it comes to music. The Bat Cave in Road Town is the current hottest nightclub but lots of local musicians appear in beachfront bars and restaurants.
Quito plays reggae at Quito’s Gazebo in Cane Garden Bay in Tortola, while Foxy – a local music legend – sings calypso on Jost Van Dyke and has the most famous New Year’s Eve party in the Caribbean.
Sample product:
ITC Classics offer 14 nights at Little Dix Bay in a Garden View Room on a room-only basis from £2,520pp. Price includes economy flights from London Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic and return ferry transfers. Call 01244 355 527 or visit itcclassics.co.uk
Seasons in Style offer 14 nights from £3,825pp in a Garden Suite at Biras Creek, including full board, British Airways flights from London Gatwick and transfers. Call 01244 202 000 or visit seasonsinstyle.com
Abercrombie & Kent offer two weeks at Peter Island, from £4,585 per person including all flights, transfers and full board in an Ocean View Room. Call 0845 0700 614 or visit abercrombiekent.co.uk
British Virgin Islands travel facts:
Who: Connecting services from Antigua are offered by Liat Air (www.liatairline.com). Airlines flying to Antigua from the UK include Virgin Atlantic, BA and XL Airways from London and BMI from Manchester.
Flight time: London to Antigua: seven to eight hours Antigua to Tortola one hour
Currency: US dollar
Time difference: GMT -4 hours
Weather: A subtropical climate, with gentle trade winds and average temperatures of 27-32C all year round. High season is winter, with rain (and hurricanes) most likely in August and September.
