Tucked in the northeast corner of Spain, bordering France, is the autonomous region of the Basque Country – País Vasco in Spanish and Euskadi in the Basque language.
Formed of three provinces, Alava, Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia (Vizcaya), this fiercely independent region serves up modern art, rugged coastlines, lush green farmland and gourmet gastronomy by the bucketload – but it is often overlooked by Brits.
San Sebastian
The jewel of the Basque Country is the belle époque-style seaside resort San Sebastian, with its picturesque crescent-shaped bay, La Concha, and the beaches of Ondaretta and Zurriola.
A stroll along Paseo de la Concha takes you into the old quarter’s cobbled streets, packed with traditional pintxos bars, which dish up local specialities, such as fried green peppers and salted codfish, washed down with regional Rioja wine. San Sebastian also has more Michelin-starred eateries per inhabitant than Paris, including the three-starred Arzak restaurant.
For families, San Sebastian’s beaches are a big draw, as is the city’s aquarium, which has an underwater walkway. For panoramic views, a walk up to the Statue of Jesus on Monte Urgull from the old quarter is worth the hike, while a funicular train chugs up Mount Igueldo for spectacular vistas of La Concha bay and the western coastline.
Shopping and spa fans are also catered for with San Sebastian’s boutique stores, Spanish fashion chains and the beachfront La Perla spa, which offers excellent-value treatments.
Bilbao
Nearly 63 miles west, cosmopolitan Bilbao is forging its own reputation for architecture. Santiago Calatrava’s skeletal Zubizuri Bridge arches over the Bilbao River, and the flamboyant Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum and Bellas Artes Museum, sits on the west bank, alongside the revamped estuary with its Maritime Museum, Euskalduna concert hall and modern tramline.
Even transport infrastructure is architecturally conscious – Bilbao’s airport and metro station entrances were designed by Norman Foster.
East of the river is the Casco Viejo, its lively Siete Calles district home to sights such as the gothic Catedral de Santiago and the enormous three-storey Mercado de la Ribera food market – one of Europe’s largest.
The upscale restaurants and pintxos bars in the old town’s Plaza Nueva rival those of San Sebastian. For city views, the summit of Monte Archanda, accessible by funicular, is hard to beat.
Coastal villages
Cities aside, the Basque Country coastline (Costa Vasca) is dotted with scenic fishing villages, white sandy beaches and coastal walks – all the way from Hondarribia, east of San Sebastian, to Muskiz, west of Bilbao.
The historic harbour town of Hond-arribia is close to the French border, its medieval old town set atop a hill and overlooking the brightly coloured houses of the fisherman’s quarter.
West of San Sebastian is the fishing village of Guetaria, renowned for its txakoli (a sparkling white that is considered to be one of the world’s finest seafood wines).
Further west is the picturesque fishing port of Mutriku. Close by are the cliffs and beach of Saturraran, and the area known as the Seven Beaches.
Activities
A hike up to the summit of Mount Jaizkibel is rewarded with panoramic views over Hondarribia. With rolling hills on one side, and the Atlantic sea on the other, it’s a trekker’s paradise.
Surfers get the best waves at Zarautz, while Gorliz, Getxo and Sopelana near Bilbao are also thriving surf towns.
The Basque coastline is renowned for its fascinating geology. Visitors head to Zumaia, just west of San Sebastian, to hike around the spectacular stretch of layered cliff formations, also known as flysch.
The region is also a haven for bird watchers, with the UNESCO biosphere Urdaibai Nature Reserve set on a sandy estuary.
Surrounded by wonderful beaches, the surf town of Mundaka sits at the mouth, and at the tip is the historic town of Gernika – best known for the 1938 civil war air raid that inspired Picasso’s Guernica. Also situated in the reserve is the coastal village of Elantxobe, dramatically perched on near-vertical cliffs above the fishing port.
Food and drink
Foodies and wine lovers flock to the Basque Country for its succulent meat, fresh fish and fine wines. Pintxos snacks can be found piled high at bars and skewered with a toothpick, which the barmen tally up at the end of the evening.
Good Riojas and txakoli are easy to come by, and zuritos (small shots of beer), pacharan (an anise and sloe berry liqueur) and traditional apple cider are all popular with the locals.
Seafood restaurants along the coast serve up numerous Basque specialities, including spider crab, baked sea bream, baby eels, marmitako (a tuna and potato stew) and marinated sardines.
Michelin-starred eateries include Alameda in Hondarribia, Zortziko in Bilbao and Akelare in San Sebastian.
Sample packages
Gourmet on Tour’s year-round Gastronomic Weekend tour includes three nights at a four-star hotel in San Sebastian, buffet breakfast, two lunches with wine, one dinner (pintxos tour), gastronomy guide, cookery class, Bilbao excursion and local taxes. Flights and other meals are not included. The gastro tour starts from €1,360 per person for two people) or €1,085 per person for four people. gourmetontour.com, 020 7558 8796
Alto Aragon offers a seven-day Basque Country coastal walking holiday from £1,100 per person (single supplement £110) with three nights in four-star hotels, and four nights in two-star hotels, full-board – breakfast and dinner plus picnic lunches. altoaragon.co.uk, 020 8398 1321
Brittany Ferries offers three nights’ bed and breakfast at Hondarribia’s four-star Parador, a converted 10th-century castle, with a return crossing on selected sailings to Spain. Prices start from £391 per person, based on two sharing a standard car, cabin and room. brittanyferries.com/spain, 0871 244 1444
