One of the world’s oldest cities, Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is vastly underrated and most visitors head straight to a holiday base on the coast. But those who make the easy journey to the city, which lies roughly in the centre of the island, will be rewarded with more than 1,000 years of history, authentic Cypriot cuisine and lively nightlife.
The Old Town lies within massive 16th-century Venetian walls and is home to important museums, Byzantine churches, medieval and neoclassical buildings. Known as Lefkosia to Greek speakers, Nicosia is unique for being the world’s last divided capital, with the infamous green line splitting it in two.
8am: Coffee time
Kick-start the day the local way with a glass of strong, sweet coffee and a pastry in one of the cafes. Palia Plateia, 5 Kyriakou Karaoli Square, opens early and is one of the oldest coffee shops in town.
Stroll through the maze of narrow streets to the city walls – three and a half miles long and topped by 11 towers. The most imposing of the three original gates is Famagusta, once the main entrance to the city. It now houses the city’s Municipal Cultural Centre, and opens at 9am.
10am: Get exploring
If you’re in town on a Monday, Thursday or Friday, join one of the free guided walking and bus tours starting from the Cyprus Tourism Organisation information office at 11 Aristokyprou in the Old Town.
Midday: Enjoy the view
For an admission price of about 75p, it’s well worth taking the lift to the 11th floor Ledra Museum Observatory in the Shakolas building, at the corner of Lidras and Arsinois streets, for a fantastic 360-degree birds-eye view.
While not really a museum, the attraction is a great place to get your bearings. Telescopes provide views over the city and the path of the green line, plus information about landmark buildings and neighbourhoods.
1pm: Lunch in the Old Town
Back down to earth, stop in the pretty Laiki Yitonia district for a spot of lunch. Buildings in this part of the Old Town pedestrian area have been restored to their former glory and it’s a popular haunt for visitors.
Try a selection of meze or a slice of cheese pie at 1900 Paei Kairos, 11-15 Pasikratous. Wherever you go, expect to pay about £15 a head for lunch with wine, or £4.50 for a takeaway kebab.
2pm: The Green Line
Take a walk towards the north of the city and you will get to the green line, which has politically divided the southern republic of Cyprus from the Turkish-occupied north since 1974.
The only crossing for cars and pedestrians is at Ledra Palace, which now forms an integral part of thought-provoking city sightseeing tours.
3pm: Feed your head
The Cyprus Museum at 1 Mouseiou houses the best collection of archaeological finds from the island.
Highlights include copperware and terracotta figures dating back to 6BC, and the most famous exhibit is the Aphrodite of Soli statue, the ‘face’ of Cyprus featured on bank notes and holiday brochures. Entry costs £2.50.
4.30pm: Sightseeing and shopping
If you fancy more culture, visit Faneromeni Church, the largest church within the city walls with a marble mausoleum, or the ornate Omeriye Mosque, which has a tall minaret that dominates the skyline.
If you prefer a spot of retail therapy, the main shopping areas are along Lidras in the old city and Arhiepisk-opou Makariou III in the new city. The government-sponsored Cyprus Handicraft Centre at 186 Athalassa Avenue is a good place to pick up souvenirs and watch craftsmen at work.
8pm: Dine like a local
When it’s time to dine, there’s the opportunity to savour a really authentic taste of Cyprus as many of Nicosia’s restaurants cater primarily for locals rather than visitors. So take a stroll around and if somewhere is full of Cypriots, the chances are it’s a good bet.
For a meal with a view, the Marco Polo rooftop restaurant at the Holiday Inn, 70 Regaena Street, offers spectacular views over the city. Main courses cost about £25 and there’s live music. For something more traditional, Conte Demokritos, 8 Makedonitissas Avenue, serves up great meze and music every night – expect to pay about £10 a head, and advance booking is recommended (00 357 2276 8208).
11pm: Into the night…
If you’ve got the energy, round off the evening with a nightcap at Plato’s, 8-10 Platonos Street. From the outside it looks like an old house, but push open the door and it opens out, Tardis-like, nto a huge bar with atmospheric arches and walls decked with memorabilia, and stays open until 2am.
Sample product
Sunvil Holidays offers seven nights at the three-star Castelli Hotel from £813 per person bed and breakfast next January, February and March, including flights and private car transfers. sunvil.co.uk, 020 8568 4499
Cosmos Holidays offers a day excursion to Nicosia on all its Cyprus packages for £20 per person. It includes a sightseeing tour, cathedral visit, free time for shopping and drive through the Troodos mountains. cosmos-holidays.co.uk, 0871 622 4254
